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cabreco

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Everything posted by cabreco

  1. cabreco
    Boys & Girls IDK if anyone else has posted about this product so I will. My right front seal has been weeping for awhile. (Muffinman can attest to it, he saw it at the meet & greet) I tried using a 35 mm film negative & it worked for a little bit but I still saw an oil line of demarcation. When I met Jeff at the Meet & Eat, he was kind enough to give me a list of all the parts I needed to replace the seals. I was looking up remedies on the web & ran across this. http://sealmate.net/Images/fix_leaking_fork_seals_logo.png http://sealmate.net/seal_mate_instructions.html Basically it's the same principle as the film strip but the thing is not as fragile. It cleans the seal & then you have to reseat it by pumping the forks. (I did 3 sets of 10 pumps each) I used it as instructed cleaning the fork tube & dust cap. I cleaned the seal twice around, then I wiped down the tube. I pumped the front end to reseat the seal. & noticed the oil line. Wiped & cleaned & repeated the front end pumping. I saw a lesser line. By the 3rd time my tubes were dry. It's been 4 days now without any issues. If you plan on doing a few bikes I would pick up a couple of them. I found that they sell on EBAY as well. It's cheaper & free shipping. http://www.ebay.com/itm/140818428402?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 This is the seller RJ Engineering (RJ ENGR) http://myworld.ebay.com/rjengr?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 Not a bad fix for $4.70 I will post an update again in a week.
  2. cabreco
    Oh good I ALMOST believed the talk that 1st gens are faster WHEN they start. (lol) Although Helen WAS really admiring the 2nd Gen (Christmas persent???) hint hint The wife & I had a GREAT time & were are DEFINITELY looking forward for more. I thought the forum was great before I actually met some members, but now. Can't want until the next get together!
  3. cabreco
    In looking through the photos I just realized something...I was the ONLY 1st Gen at the Meet & Eat there!
  4. cabreco
    UPDATE!!! The current seller on the link is SpeedShop. When I bought this is was sold by YupbizAuto. Just wanted everyone to know the seller changes. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/2825-5-SMD-White-Power-Lights/dp/B005ETCIO8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&m=AGXE2TI31GNMW&qid=1347966906&s=generic&sr=1-2]10x 194 168 2825 5-SMD White High Power LED Car Lights Bulb : Amazon.com : Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41%2BMSBwgvWL.@@AMEPARAM@@41%2BMSBwgvWL[/ame]
  5. cabreco
    Paul, A bag of 10 from this guy will set you back $10. They did have 1157 but no 1156 LED. In retrospect I should have bought the 1157 for the front turns & the tail but I had never bought from him before & I didn't want to risk blowing off more the $20 buck if the LED were cheap. These dash bulbs have 5 LED & are super bright.
  6. cabreco
    These are the ones I bought. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ETCIO8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00]10x 194 168 2825 5-SMD White High Power LED Car Lights Bulb : Amazon.com : Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41%2BMSBwgvWL.@@AMEPARAM@@41%2BMSBwgvWL[/ame] You will need 10 bulbs. 2 directional Indicators 1 Neutral Light 1 Highbeam Blue light 1 Headlight out 1 Cruise Control 4 Dash Lights Also the sell was EXCELLENT. Shipped very quickly, I got them in 3 days
  7. cabreco
    HAPPY! I've never dimmed them, & probably never will. Actually the main reason for the LED's swap was to make the dash brighter! Eventually I will replace the dimmer (because it will bug me that it's NOT good) but that will be when I tear her down for a repaint. NEXT- Turn signals, tail light & HID headlight!
  8. cabreco
    Exacly what I did. I attached a ground strap from the while wire off the switch to the frame effectively bypassing the switch. All is well in VentureLand!
  9. cabreco
    Oh I found that out fast when I was installing the LEDs in the rear light bar. It's bad enough that the Baron mini markers are so small, then I installed the bulbs backward & I had to redo using my big paws.
  10. cabreco
    I thought so too. Most likely the dimmer switch was going or I may have shorted something. I did find 1 LED that smoked & died. That may have been the culprit.
  11. cabreco
    Well after replacing the reserve lighting unit I replaced all the bulbs back to OEM & still no lights. (having full parts bike is useful) still no lights. Then I started digging with my multimeter. I had no power to the bulbs but I did have power to the dimmer switch. When I ground the white wire on the switch the dash lights come on. I removed the 3 wires from the switch & wired in the parts bike switch. it works. So ...My Dimmer control switch is FRIED!! I had 2 choices. Since I don't usually dim the dash: 1. leave the replacement switch attached & bury it in the cluster & leave the OEM bulbs 2. attach a small ground wire from the white wire of the broken switch to the frame & replace the LED again. I did the ground wire to the middle terminal & bypassed the dimmer. What I suspect is the dimmer couldn't deal with LED. They were lit up & working fine then I played with the dimmer but didn't notice the light kicked out because I was outside. Or it could be an INCREDIBLE coincidence. In either case, this was a fun job. IDK if I shorted something or if the LEDs caused this but I would test your dimmer BEFORE reassembly if you plan to cut over to LED. If you do blow the switch at least here's the fix. BTW REPLACING the dimmer is brutal. The tach & voltmeter have to come out of the housing 1st! This whole process was time consuming!
  12. cabreco
    I did the ground wire to the middle terminal & bypassed the dimmer. What I suspect is the dimmer couldn't deal with LED. They were lit up then I hit the dimmer & didn't notice because I was outside. Or it could be an INCREDIBLE coincidence. In either case, If you plan to cut over to LED I would set the dimmer to max & forget it or remove the button altogether. At least you know what to do to patch it. BTW REPLACING the dimmer is brutal. The tach & voltmeter have to come out of the housing 1st!
  13. cabreco
    FOUND IT! My Dimmer control switch is FRIED!! When I ground the white wire the dash lights come on. I assume the white is the ground. I disconnected the 3 wires from the switch (blue, black & white) and I attached them to the switch from the parts bike. It works! Now I have a dillemma. Since I don't usually dim the dash, I have 2 choices: 1. leave the replacement switch attached & bury it in the cluster & leave the OEM bulbs 2. attach a small ground wire from the white wire of the broken switch to the frame & replace the LED again. What would you do?
  14. cabreco
    Found the RLU replaced it (a REAL PITA) but still no dash or hi/beam indicator lights. Any other suggestions? I'm dying here. All set to go to the meet & eat Saturday & this rears it's ugly head UPDATE! I did get the hi/low beam indicatore to work. I sprayed contact cleaner into the starter switch & noticed it was working. I'm thinking the LED may have messed up the dimmer control board, what do you think>?
  15. cabreco
    Well I found the reserve lighting unit (big block up top) I replaced all the bulbs still no lights. I have to dig up the reserve unit from the parts bike. Dingy, If the reserve unit fails wouldn't the headlight not work at all?
  16. cabreco
    Reserve Lighting unit?? Where is that located & what does it look like? I am assuming that replaceing all the bulbs back would not fix this issue huh? The LEDs looked so NICE!
  17. cabreco
    I need help BIG TIME. I replaced all my dash lights with LED bulbs. I was going to take a pix of my dash & noticed that the lights are all out. I tested the LEDs & they work elsewhere. I replaced one with the oem bulb & there is no power. My headlight IS working though. Is there a fuse that I am overlooking?? I gotta get this fixed tomorrow I have a meet & eat on saturday!
  18. cabreco
    Odd thing, I was going to take a pix of my dash & noticed that the lights are all out Also the High Beam indicator light too. Is there a fuse that I am overlooking??
  19. cabreco
    I swapped out EVERY 168 bulb on the bike. Baron lights, chin, front fender lights as well as all of them in the dash cluster. 22 in all. What a HUGE difference in power consumption. With the headlight, amp, driving lights & all the running lights on I am still charging at a stop. (for a while that is) I think if I change the tail & directionals & will be in the positive most of the time. The best thing is thee dash is now all bright & crisp!
  20. cabreco
    I replaced mine too. Got them from Cycle Parts Nation. These guys shipped fast & they fit perfect. http://www.aftermarketcyclepartsnation.com/Drag-Specialties-BARON-TWIN-AND-BARON-MINI-TWIN-MARKER-LIGHTS-detail.htm?productid=7922788
  21. cabreco
    I took it out today to see what drain would be caused by the new 20w bulbs. I have a plug in voltage tester that check battery condition when off as well as charging output. At 2000 rpm (which is below what I usually drive at) my charging system was putting out 13.68 volts. at no time did it drop below 13.5 volts while at this rpm. So I can definitely say that the 2 20 watt bulbs replacing the 2 55w did the trick.
  22. cabreco
    Mike , I took it out today to see what drain was caused by the new 20w bulbs. I have a plug in voltage tester that check battery condition when off as well as charging (see pix below) When the bike is running. My 84 has the stock stator. I have powered on: 1. 10 #168 running light bulbs for my marker lights 2. The stock headlight is 55/60 watts 3. A small amp for my MP3 player - minimal draw 4 The stock tail light 5. the 2 20w Walmart lights. At 2000 rpm (which is below what I usually drive at) my charging system was putting out 13.68 volts. at no time did it drop below 13.5 volts while at this rpm. So I can definitely say that the 20 watt bulbs will do the trick. Now what you may want to do is pick up 35w units & see how the work for you since you have now accessory running lights or amp on your rig. Worse case scenario, if you open the package carefully, you can exchange them for 20 watt bulbs. BTW Home Depot also carries the 35watt bulbs.
  23. cabreco
    In the gararge, the lighting difference was minimal. My main concern was 2 fold. Primarily I want to make a light triangle to the front to be seen better by cars. Secondly I want to use them as cornering lights. I think the 20w will do both jobs well. I will LYK. BTW the 3 pack 20w lights at Home Depot cost me just under $10. Make sure when you replace the light ring on the bullets that they are tightly seated. They will fall off with the bikes vibration if not.
  24. cabreco
    I just bought a set of 20w bulbs for them at Home Depot. At quick check the 40w total vs 110w total seems to helped. I really won't know for sure until I take her out for a ride tomorrow. I have plans on changing all 8 baron bulbs over to LED as well as the turn & brake lights this winter. So that will reduce the draw
  25. cabreco
    Mike which ones did you get the round chrome 55w bullet ones? If so you may have a drain issue. I have those installed on my bike. I wired them directly to the accessory terminals with an inline fuse & a micro switch from Radio Shack. They work GREAT but they do tax my charging system. I just bought a set of 20w bulbs for them at Home Depot. At quick check the 40w total vs 110w total seems to helped. I really won't know for sure until I take her out for a ride tomorrow.
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