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cabreco

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Everything posted by cabreco

  1. Well job done. Dry as a bone! I couldn't find 7wt oil so I used 5wt (I had a teeth shattering 15wt in it before). Front end feels heavy on turns. I don't know if it's the 5wt or the fact that I have been riding my old 750 for a while & got used to the lighter bike.
  2. Well I started my "Winter" project early. I had to do fork seals ASAP as I was leaking all over the place. I lost 1/2 my fork oil in the right for. No wonder it was handling badly. When I disassembled the forks and inspected the seal, I noticed that it had a nick in it the size of a pinhead. I was leaking fork oil just parked in the garage!! Anyway... It was an intimidating tasks but actually the job is really not that bad. It's just a few extra steps over doing progressives. I have to give a shout out AGAIN to Muffinman for all his help. I used a 41mm MotionPro Ringer fork seal driver. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009M4COVI]Motion Pro (08-0489) 41mm Ringer Fork Seal Driver : Amazon.com : Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41bv0ErRFtL.@@AMEPARAM@@41bv0ErRFtL[/ame] Worked perfect on the 40mm forks I also made a short video showing the disassembly & reassembly process to hopefully take the fear out of someone considering doing them for the 1st time. My kid is going to do some editing on it so I can upload it. What's left is to put the tire & calipers back on, drop the progressives back in & add fork oil. Hey what else is there to do during a hurricane??
  3. I'm not saying it can't happen but chances are the rider was driving as if it were 7am on a Sunday morning. Not going into absurd riding habits like lane splitting & weaving in & out of traffic but I can't tell you how many times I've seen riders going 60mph on a two way winding 35mph road (fun sure but potentially dangerous) or riding way too close to a car in front of them. If you can't see 12 seconds ahead of you because of weather or lighting then adjustment are necessary. Also age has a lot to do with the way you ride. Us older guys seem to not push the envelope as much, since we now know that we're not "indestructible" & we have enough aches & pains without laying the bike down. I'm not taking a holier than thou attitude when it comes to riding, I'm just saying caution should always be part of your riding equation.
  4. Welcome to the club. 1st Gens are notorious for the slow hot cranks Friesman suggestion is the 1st step, if you are trying to avoid relacing the starter. Next change the battery cables to a much thicker gauge!
  5. Here in Hampton road it's just been raining & a bit windy. The worst of it should be here by morning. Got everything tied down & my standby generator ready! I don't know what's leaving more wet on the ground, the rain or my leaking right front fork. It's been sitting on it's centerstand leaking like a siv! (gotta do them this week)
  6. I usually try to avoid obstacles in the road when I ride. I suppose in the case of deer & other unpredictable things it's difficult, but in the case of stationary objects a modicum of alertness would go along way. If this guy can hit a shopping cart sitting in the middle of the road, he would be easily destined to wipe out in a pothole. Basic concept of Rider Safety Course: SEE. Search Evaluate Execute. It's always good to periodically review rider safety course materials (and if you've never taken one, I highly recommend it). I started riding at 17 until I was 25. I picked it up again at 50 & took the safety course. Amazing stuff. I sat in on the course when my 17 year old took his course a few years later. Great refresher. If we get complacent, we get messed up! Ride safe.
  7. She's cabled & strapped down
  8. Man you weren't kidding. Rustoleum Red is spot on. I bought a can to paint the frame for the time being where I welded the cooler rack. Perfect match. Now to see if everything is water tight. I am leaving the trailer on my deck for the duration of the up coming hurricane Sandy. That will be a good indicator if both boxes are sealed!
  9. Well all the fork parts I ordered on the 18th arrived today. Pretty fast shipping, all OEM Yamaha. The price was less that the dealership & they did not have them in stock. Dealer wanted $185 plus tax & that's with a military discount. I got them here for $124.70 plus $13.58 shipping If anybody is interested, the website is http://www.powersportsplus.com/
  10. Ok well I ordered all the parts All OEM Yamaha parts NL-23145-00-00 1NL-23145-00-00 OIL SEAL 26H-23144-00-00 26H-23144-00-00 DUST SEAL 3JJ-23125-00-00 3JJ-23125-00-00 METAL SLIDE 3JJ-23171-00-00 3JJ-23171-00-00 FRONT FORK PISTON $138.28 & the 41mm seal driver. "Motion Pro (08-0489) 41mm Ringer Fork Seal Driver" $40.76 I just hope their 41mm driver isn't too big and it hits the outer tube. Total shipped $179.04 Just need to pick up a qt of 7wt oil and let the FUN begin!
  11. No KIC, although I might get lucky, I wouldn't risk using aftermarket seals. I ONLY want to do this job ONCE Here's a question for everyone who has done seals. The Gen 1 (and ONLY the GEN 1) has 40 mm fork tube. There are a lot of fork seal drivers out there, but NONE come in 40 mm. They have 39mm & 40 mm but no 40mm. If I am to replace the seals without removing the tubes from the triple trees, I need the driver to split in half SO... What did you guys use to drive in the seals? a 41mm? This would not be an issue but I REALLY don't want to take apart the faring (AGAIN)!
  12. Hardly...Virginia not only wants tags but annual personal property tax on this thing too! I have to take a run to DMW with the certificate of origin to get a title & tags for it. No big rush though as my Venture has a leaking riight fork seal...more fun!
  13. If memory serves me right they stopped making the 100cc in 1973. If it's a street bike it's a CB100 a K2. Market value about $1,100. If it's a enduro then it's a CL100 K1 worth about $900. In 1974 Honda went to the 125cc platform. Nice little bikes, I had a CB175 as a kid. Great 1st bike but easily outgrown...but GREAT for a kid!
  14. I guess I could get a Motion Pro seal driver which splits in half http://www.motionpro.com/images/items/08-0138.jpg Then I can drive the seal in when it's assembled. Does anyone happen to know the size of the MK1 forks? I THINK I recall reading 40mm
  15. What did you use to press the seal in place? Most videos I see show some kind of tube being used as a slide. Can the seals be seated without the stanchions being in the lowers forks?
  16. Thanks. I'm going to try to pick some brains here. My intention is to do the 1st tube & then videotape the process on the 2nd tube...unless I chicken out! http://astrafamily.com/images/smilies/EmoteChickendance.gif
  17. Well, after cleaning & even adding a little brake fluid to the seal it looks like it finally gave out. So as much as I have tried to push it off, & as much as I am terrified of doing them, looks like I have no choice. I even got the idea of swapping the fork with my parts bike but when I looked at those seals, I think they were WORSE! I actually feel the bike a little wierd wnd I am slightly leaning & hit a bump in the road. I suspect the fluid in that fork is WAY low! Now to order the parts. At least I have my other bike to ride in the interum Thanks Muffinman for the parts list you gave me at the M&E, saved me a lot of time.
  18. quick pix still working on her. Ok here are more pix. She handles fine a 45MPH and below I loaded it with 150lbs of sandbags & the tongue wt was 42lb. This is with the generator in the front box. the tires were at 20 psi. The swivel hitch makes a BIG difference. I have to keep checking to make sure the trailer was till there.
  19. I have the same Walmart Kit. The only addition I made to it was a 1st aid manual & a couple of packs of Quickclot. http://www.secureyourweapon.com/images/products/quickclot_sport2.jpg
  20. Did more work today on the HF Mini. I welded in a 1x1 box steel under the front of the cooler rack for stability & I also welded the back of the rail to the trailer. The generator fit real nice in the cooler rack box. I made a side carrier to be able to haul a 1 gallon gas can just in front of the driver side tire. To hold the box in & add extra rigidity, I used 2 lengths of 2x6 pressure treated wood. The biggest pain was I needed to replace the carriage bolts that mount the box to the trailer as they were 1" too short. I go to Home Depot but they don't have metric carriage bolts. What I did was buy 1/4" x 3 1/2 stainless carriage bolts & I use my tap & die set to re thread the original metric hold down knobs to 1/4" 20 course. Now I can attach my cargo net to them without having to add extra eyebolts. I also put in an edge trim on the carrier top as well as a new weather seal on the box. The old one was crumbling. My swivel hitch arrives tomorrow so I'll be able to take her for a test drive probably Thursday to see how she tracks. Then I'll weld the trailer up if it passes snuff. I did pull the extra springs off since I decided to just use this behind the bike. I'll take pix tomorrow since it got dark on me here & my hands are KILLING ME! It sucks getting old!
  21. The 40" is from coupler center to front face of frame. I just remeasured. Right now the distance from the axle center to center coupler 65". That puts me a 1.625. Just barely above the 1.5 margin. Welding in a longer tongue would not be a problem if needed. I will have to load & test run it down the highway & check
  22. Yeah, I repacked the bearings with high temp, IDK what they were using but it looked like Vaseline! As far as the tongue, I did get 13" extention by moving the center brace up towards the front. The tongue is now 40" long. I haven't tested it yet as my swivel hitch is in transit. I need the width since the cartop carrier is 38" wide. Worst case I will add another 6" or so. What about wheel balancing? Has anyone found they needed to be done?
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