cabreco

Just 2! Of course my 84 Venture with 15K miles & my beloved Fiona, a 1981 CB750 with 25K miles!

The S&W wesson 357 is a GREAT gun. I have a model 19 with a 6" barrel that I bought when I lived in NJ. (carry permits are impossible to get there) Very accurate gun. I taught my son to shoot with it & he was able after a while to bullseye targets while shooting from the hip. Now as far as the 22lr is concerned choose wisey & research heavily. I have found that many 22lr semi auto jam & have ejection issues unless you use high velosity ammo like CCI. A GREAT target 22lr is the Ruger mark3 competition, http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/images/14287.jpg This gun has flawless operation. I'm sure there are others but these I can personally vouch for.

Well I spoke to the service dept at the Yammy dealer & he confirmed that it won't make a difference. (basically he said exactly what you posted) I have them soaking now with a 50/50 mix of acetone & automatic transmission fluid so that they will not fight me. I cleaned up the rims I will run my Dremel through those hole to clean them up. I appreciate the offer but like I said my bike only has 15K original miles & the rotors are in really nice shape. The parts bike rotors aren't bad either but they have over 60K miles on them & look more worn than my bikes. I appreciate the help guys!

LOL! After all that! Gary since you've swapped them out before, would you happen to know off hand the torque specs for them??

As I posted before I am putting on new E3 Dunlops on my 84 using the rims from my donor bike. Now the donor bikes rotors have over 70K miles on them & are thinner than the ones on my bike (I only have 15K on my bike). This being the case I will be swapping the rotors once the new E3's come back mounted. My question is will swapping the rotors AFTER I have the new tires balanced significantly affect the tire balancing???

Well my parts bike gave up her rims easily. Checked the bearings & they are good. Now I need to clean up the rims before I get the new E3's mounted on them. At least I can keep riding until I do the swap over, Plus I will have a spare set of mounted tires on hand!

Best penetrant I EVER used...a 50/50 mix of acetone & automatic transmission fluid!

Holier than NOW.

From what I was told by several sources is that you should stick to the OEM type ply. "Bias and radial tires have significantly different dynamic properties. They deflect differently, create different cornering forces, have different damping characteristics, as well as other differences. In order for radial tires to be introduced into the two-wheel market, it was necessary to change certain characteristics of the motorcycle. The introduction of the radial tire led to such things as modified frames, new steering geometries and suspensions. Therefore, it is recommended that a motorcycle be used with the type of tire construction that it came with originally. If a change is to be made, then it should only be done if the motorcycle or tire manufacturer has approved the change. Above all, do not mix bias ply and radial tires on the same motorcycle."

Ray I got this conversion sheet from one of the online vendors. I wasn't sure about the sizes either. Sunrise Yamaha in Norfolk confirmed it, so it's cool. No offense taken, my rule is always measure twice cut once.

Terry, I can't attest for Shinkos but if they are like the Kendas they are decent. My choice is for cushy. BUT a 19 year old tire NO MATTER HOW PRISTINE THEY LOOK is a disaster waiting to happen. Rubber composition breakes down over time. Most riders will change tires that are 8 years old. (that seems to be the max life) If the rubber on those tires fail, especially at highway speeds...well use your imagination. NEW low end tires are better than having older tires. Change them & quick!

Another few quick question, I'm assuming that I should get Bias Play not Radial for the Gen 1 right? now about size. My current tires say Front 120/90-18 Rear 140/90-16 Is that translated to Front MR90 Rear MU90 Just want to make sure I order the right tires.

E3's it is then. Got quoted $382.98 locally for the pair plus $60 mounting (I give them rims) Now to do some research to see if I can beat the price. Thank you everyone for your input.

As I posted I got a flat on my Kenda Challenger rear tire which I am going to have patch plugged. The reason is that it is practically new, plus I also bought a new Kenda Kruz front tire to match. The Kenda tires are ok but they are noisy. Now I also have a complete set of rims from my parts bike. (they have very old Metzlers on them). So I have decided to buy a complete NEW set of tires & mount them on THOSE rims. With only these criteria, what would you guys recommend for an MK1 1. I want a quiet, comfy ride (that old time Cadillac feel) 2. I want stability (a solid feel) 3. Good wet weather traction (although I am a fair weather rider, trips may catch rain.) Price is not an issue as the Mrs has told be to get what is best. (her actual words were, I want the same confidence I have in the car's Michelin Tires). So, for all of you 1st Gen owners who have taken this road before, what do you recommend???

If AMMO is your only criteria, then I would choose 9mm. WHY, it's inexpensive compared to the .380, 38, 357, 40, 45. By being cheaper you will be able to train more & get more proficient ant using it.

I took mine off when I installed the backrest, Eventually I will get to retrofit them back on.

Anything over .380 & you're good. Personally I like a knockdown punch so I use a either a 357 or a 40 cal. But the .380 & 9mm are good as well. I have my wife practice double & triple taps center mass as insurance. Good luck!

It's more of a consideration when buying...especially as we get older. Also if Mel hasn't owned a gun in 53 years, a heavy trigger pull affects aim unless you train diligently. My S&W with the 12lb trigger was a BEAR, and to compensate I would jerk the trigger pulling my shot up. once I modded it to 4lbs it was dead on.

Mel On the topic of SA/DA, the above basically have you covered. Since you haven't owned a gun is a while, you have a lot of things to consider. Main consideration is what your main use is. (daily carry, bike carry etc) and how you will carry. Although any gun is better than no gun, you're good wit anything over .380 cal. Next to consider is ammo. (which seems to be scarce now) I have several firearms in different calibers which I use for different uses. My 357 revolver I use on the bike mostly, because of the way it conceals in the holster. Buy My S&W 40 DAO is my daily carry. My wife carries a Bersa .380 (looks like a James Bond Walther PPK) which is a GREAT sa/da auto. She carries it with one in the chamber safety off. Not too small like a Ruger LCP fits conforably even in my big paws. SA/DA tend to have a lighter trigger pull than a DAO, especially on the 2nd shot. I had to mod my S&W from a 12lbs pull to just over 4lbs. Most Autos today are SA/DA like the Bersa or DAO like the Glock.

For travelling (especially on the bike) I have found this to be a valuable tool that I buy annually. Traveler's Guide to the Firearm Laws of the Fifty States http://www.gunlawguide.com/

Before you buy anything right now, you better make sure you can buy ammo for it. Here are some of the messages you’ll see across the internet right now at online retailers’ websites: Cheaper Than Dirt: Consumer reaction to the political rhetoric after the shooting in CT caused a rush of online orders at Cheaper Than Dirt! which led to the largest backlog in the company’s history. Ammunition and shooting accessories orders more than tripled, resulting in week-long shipping delays. The past three weeks have been spent catching up on the tremendous backlog of orders, training additional staff and increasing inventory back to acceptable levels. …firearms that are in high demand are not currently available from manufacturers due to the lack of inventory. This includes most modern sporting rifles. Ammo To Go EXPECT DELAYS: Due to high order volume, we are experiencing a shipping delay of 22-24 business days… Midway USA “out of stock, NO backorder.” Brownells Due to extreme order volumes, shipments may be delayed. We will continue to make every effort to get orders out the door as quickly as possible.

Joe, a gun choice is basically made by feel. What "FEELS" good ergonomically in your hand & of course reliability. Going to a rental range & test firing will give you practical experience with different cal & gun types. I have several from S&W K frames. EAA revolver to a .380 Bersa Thunder and a few others. If I was going to make a recommendation based on low price & knock down punch I would say look into a polymer S&W Sigma 40ve 40 cal. They also come in 9mm which is good because ammo is cheaper, but you said knock down punch. They are basically a Glock 19 knock off. The big problem they have is a very heavy trigger pull 12Lbs. I found a video on You Tube to remove the pigtail spring & extra trigger spring (easy fix) both were added after Glock sued S&W for patent infringement. My Sigma now has a 4lb trigger pull. Also the cost of accessories are inexpensive. I put a Crimson Trace Laser for $149 on it which blends right in. Leather holsters on Ebay go for $35. It's pretty much the Chevy of guns. The Gun itself was Just over $300 NEW & comes with a lock, case & 2 magazines. I'm sure you can find a used one at a pawn shop cheap. Pretty much a work horse gun, lightweight & indestructible. Here's a few pix from the net http://cdn2.armslist.com/sites/armslist/uploads/posts/2010/12/07/74737_02_smith_wesson_sw40ve_sigma_w_cr_640.jpg http://cdn2.armslist.com/sites/armslist/uploads/posts/2012/12/13/715236_01_s_w_sigma_sw40ve_40_cal_640.jpg

In any case I personally am not willing to risk my butt on a $2 plug. I was also toying with replacing both tires since I have a parts bike with 2 good rims on it which I plan to polish & repaint. My biggest fear is a scare with my wife onboard. That might scare her off for good! My bike had Dunlop 491 on it before I swapped it over to Kenda Kruz. My parts bike has Metzlers (which are too old). So what tires would you guys recommend for the Gen 1? My biggest concern is comfort, ride, & wet handling. I don't usually ride in rain but cruising, sometime you don't have a chioce. The wife & I don't put too many miles on the bike but I would like to make sure she is comfortable.

Scott, Pulling of the front wheel again? Although it's a great alternative if you don't have a jack, I don't want to make more work for myself. Since I can support the bike using the front crash bars, I presume the rear crash bars can also suppot the bike. I think I'll just take off the seat & use my engine crane to lift the back of the bike to get the tire off. unless someone sees a problem?

That's what I figured as well. When I called Sunrise Yamaha in Norfolk Va, I told them I did not want to trust my life to a $2 automobile plug I pushed in & was looking to buy a new tire. THEY suggested the patch/plug if the tire is good. I told them it only had 800 miles on it. (it STILL has the little nipples) I asked them how well will it hold, the said the stand behind it 100% & will guarantee it.