KIC

My 89 now has 81,000. Been able to put 800 miles on it in the last 3 weeks since I don't have to travel for work anymore. Retired the 87 at 90,000.

Seems like ever since you crossed to the dark side and bought the 2nd Gen........ well it does seem like it ! Hope you feel better...

I think it would help if you give a little more description of which rattling noise and under which circumstances you hear it. My 89 rattles for different reasons, the cold rattle from the loose parts in the exhaust crossover, the dash rattle due to a broken tab. various rattles depending what kind of crap I put in either the saddle bags or the trunk. we won't even discuss the voices rattling inside my head...

Great thread. I want to upgrade mine at some point. Since I create my own 3-ring binder shop manual from all these great "how to" threads I turned yours into a WORD Doc. Here it is so others can print it out and use it. STATOR REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT.docx

I'm disappointed... I thought this thread was about Bernie Sanders supporters.... Hey ..lighten up...just kidding..it's Monday and I'm bored.... The preceding comment is not advocating for any type of violent act or solicitation for any type of act and I am not an attorney or an attorney spokesperson...

One trick I learned from my friend is that once you finish sanding, use a light spray of black primer then sand it off. If there are pits/scratches they show up with the black paint in them and you can see the low spots when block sanding. You have given me the idea of pulling all the plastic from the 87 (now a parts bike) and slowly fixing all defects and then eventually painting them to put on the 89. That way I can change colors if I so desire....lol

Hey thanks for the idea. I am restoring a 1960 GMC Suburban and tried cleaning the inside of the fuel tank using rocks ( gravel). Still trying to get the stupid rocks out. Once I succeed with the rock removal, I am trying the nail thing using a magnet to get those suckers out afterwards !

...and don't get it on the fairing/plastic !! That sucker can spit it up in the air while bleeding. Glad to see you getting closer to back on the road !

Just take your gas cover plate over to Finish Master at Grant & Stone, Southeast Corner, they can match your color and discuss the type of paint best for what you are doing. You got me thinking of taking all the plastic off of the 87, repairing and prepping it and then repainting it to a color I like then switching it out with my 89...

really easy to do.

If I was closer I would bail both of you out. I got used to doing that in the Coast Guard. ...

I have a friend in the auto paint business here in Tucson. You can take a panel in to them and the computer matches the color and you can get any type of paint you want. You won't get Californicated here ...yet... but they are trying ....

This might help Remote button for a garage door opener.doc

I think Brian (Golf&Venture) had somebody make some at one time. Ask him.

I definitely look at it as a blessing that prevented what would have most likely been a disaster. The brakes would have never lasted knowing the ride and the roads to be taken. Had the brake retainer come all the way out, who knows what could have happened to the front wheel braking and control on a curve. I am disappointed about missing the fun ride, feeling really blessed that a little nail saved so much.

Great save. Close calls have to remind us that checking nuts and bolts and routine maintenance is a must especially on these older bikes. As I stated in my thread on Friday regarding my missed ride, I thought my brakes on my 89 were "fine". If I had not got a nail on my rear tire, I would have been on a very twisty curvy ride with my wife when I would definitely lost my brake pads, front and back to metal on metal and one of my brake pins were almost 1/2 way out as the little retaining pin had somehow popped out. I am with you on counting the blessings that it didn't go further south causing damage and injury.

Great information ! Thanks guys. I think the first thing I will check is the reed valve. I have never checked that. Love the diagrams and thanks for the cleaning tips MarCarl.

Super cool ! Thanks for sharing

You can adjust the spring "firmness" by the length of the spacer you put in on top of the Progressives. Progressives made a huge difference on the handling of my 89.

So I have read a lot of the threads/posts while dealing with different issues with my CLASS. I have dealt with E-errors, re-soldered the board. Removed and cleaned the solenoids and wire contacts, cleaned the dryer lines etc. But who understands which solenoid does what when the buttons are pushed on the CLASS display ? What should do what ? Which closes and opens when This past weekend VideoArizona ( David) notified me that in the manual there is a procedure stated that you should adjust the front pressure first before the rear or the solenoid(s) will allow residual air pressure into the front. I have never read/heard that from any of the threads and discussions that I have read/had about the CLASS. So I figured maybe the couple of gurus that really know and understand the CLASS could explain much of what they know about the actual function of each part of the CLASS here and enlighten those of us that are electronically/system challenged.

A few more pictures from my missed ride...

So here are some pictures from my missed ride. Sedona Arizona

I took the CLASS apart today again and cleaned all the solenoids check the wiring, disconnected the hoses to see how they worked pumping air etc. It continues to fill the front forks when filling the rear. If I try to release all the air out, the pressure reading will say 6 or 7 lbs put the front forks are pretty stiff. Kinda like I had put Viagra fork oil in it. If I release all the air out of the rear, the front will go down. Since I have progressives I am thinking of just disconnecting the front or maybe figuring out a cut-off valve so there isn't any front air pressure. I tried many different variations of the way Dave showed the manual stated. I think one of the solenoids isn't closing properly.

Misery loves company..couldn't get to your bike....

yea...it does. We are really disappointed about missing the ride. But in all honesty it was for the best. You see, I knew I needed brake pads. I didn't think they were bad, just that it was getting time. Turns out that I REALLY needed new pads. The rear were almost totally done and the right front were ready to hit metal. Also, on the right front, it appears that the tiny clip pin on the front rod that holds the brakes in, had somehow become dislodged and the rod was 1/3 to 1/2 way out. This ride was a twisty curvy mountain ride 2-up. The brakes would not have lasted. That little nail was the mustard seed that prevented a mountain of trouble. I now have a new rear tire. new brakes and a little issue with the CLASS that I am sure to be able to clean up. Bitter sweet to miss the ride. Happy that disaster was averted. ( This ride cost me $350.00 to go nowhere)