KIC

And I'm not sure, by the way some of the designs on bikes and cars, would lead towards the belief that they "are smarter than us " ...

So ( out of curiosity) does it make a difference on the draw depending on the RPM ? My89 idles at around 900 - 1000RPMS. I saw the biggest "draw" at idle but if I gave it throttle and raised the RPMS while idling, the draw obviously did not show as much due to the higher charging output.

I have a couple of new volt ohm meters ( thanks Harbor Freight !) I am going to buy a couple of alligator ( or maybe crocodile) clips so I can clip on the ends and mount the meter while riding. I'll check it out this weekend. I also will be checking the stator plug as described below: I was given these instructions too: Using a digital Volt Ohm meter. Find the large white plug, near the fuel pump. Has 3 large white wires going thru it. Pull the plug out for easy access. Open the plug, and check for damaged, or burnt pins, If OK, re-connect the plug. With Engine running, and a Third hand to help !! Stick the Red lead into each of the 3 wires of the plug, ONE AT A TIME, and connect Black lead of meter to a GOOD Ground. Now Select AC (( Not DC, but AC on the meter )) With engine running, ( have helper work the throttle ) you should read an AC voltage on each of the three wires. The voltage should VARY, from about 5 to 15 Volts, AC as the engine RPM changes, ( caused by your helper ) The ACTUAL Voltage is not important, but what is important, is that ALL three Phase's of the Alternator OUTPUT, is " About the Same Voltage " OK----------- IF -------- the AC on ONE, of the Three Phases, is "" Substantially Lower "" then the other two, --- Then your Stator is Failing !!!! DO not be temped to use the RESISTANCE check method given in the Service Manuel, to Test, your Stator. !!!!!!!!!!!! I did this test on KNOWN Bad Stator, and it checked OK, per the Resistance check, BUt the voltage output of that PHASE, was below 2 Volts AC, the other two phase's checked about 7 to 9 Volts, AC at 2000 RPM. From what you said in your posting, I think your stator is failing, OR---- your large WHITE PLUG, in the Three Phase Cable, has burnt or damaged Pins !!! Open , and Check the Large Plug First !!!

So how does all that equate into Watts and draw in comparison to the 55watt light theory ? Did I type that ?? Confusion at it's best...

you all have taken my anti-dives to a lower level than where they are on the forks...

So... I am trying to decide if I want to continue reading threads about problems you guys have with YOUR bike(s). Seems that when I read about your problems, my Lil 89 brunette hypochondriac decides to catch whatever disease your bike have caught. Seems like my latest may have to do with the stator. Been reading a little about some of you upgrading and repairing yours, and all of a sudden my bike has started acting a little weird. At idle my charging gauge sits right at the bottom of the 12. Once I start riding, it moves up to the 13 range and stays up there. At a light (stopped/idle) back to the top of the 12 and then will slowly drop down to the bottom of the 12 if I have the brake on, and will stay in the top, to the middle of the 12. All this seemed to happen after I disconnected the front anti-dives. The battery seems to be holding up OK and is only a little more than a year old. Thought about switching batteries with the 87 which is newer just to rule out a battery issue. So, does this sound like a stator going out ? I wish that brunette pig would quit catching everybody else's ailments...

Ah... one of the most confusing pieces of the machine. The correct setting for running is the words upside down with the end of the words at the 2 oclock and the 8oclock position. The words 180 degrees turned will be still be in the same position but upside right and readable. That position is for draining and getting the air out after changing the fluid. You have to loosen the little screw on the side to turn it.

I don't think he can post pictures as a trial member. Needs to join for that.

They look great and the perfect size ! GREAT JOB BRIAN!!!!!:happy65::happy65:

I just did my 89 this past weekend. I filled the overflow 1/2 way and let it sit over night after idling for a while. The overflow was empty the next morning. My first ride it stayed cool until I returned home then puked all over the floor while idling and the overflow bottle was full to the top, where it had been 1/2 way when I left. After cooling down I checked the radiator and the bottle and everything was perfect. It now seems to run fine and no leaks or overflow. Peder Y2K told me that these beasts will develop an air pocket and cause the issues. Once the air pocket burps, you should be fine. Here's the link to my recent adventure: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79957

I have read some of that info before, but this is a great article with the details. I just saved it into a Word document for future use. THANKS !!!

:happy65:Congrats !

Thanks Peder... sounds like you hit it on the head. Took it on a 13 mile run yesterday morning and no issues upon return. Parked it for 7 hours while away and when I got home no leaks. Checked on it this morning, no leaks. Took her for a short 4 mile spin and parked it.. no leaks.... I am looking like I am on a no leak roll here....

Thanks. It was a 15 minute job. it was 6 or 8 Phillips screws. Removed headlight and there was a wire bundle on the left side. Carefully pulled out the bundle and the two connectors were in the back of the bundle. Popped them apart, taped them to other wires to keep them from just bouncing around, put back together.. 15 minutes of work... :happy65:I spent more time last weekend trying to figure out where they went and how to get to them...

That is the reason that I want to disconnect them. When sitting at a light and the front brakes are applied the voltage meter on the dash drops down. For mine it is a noticeable draw and since I have the progressives, I don't need it. Thanks for the info on the location. Bill

I want to disconnect the electrical wires to my front anti-dives. I have installed progressives and want to get rid of the electrical sucking those lil monsters do. Where is the disconnect located at ? What do I need to disassemble to get to the disconnects ?

Hi all… got a problem. I am really trying to make the PGR Mission to Prescott Arizona on behalf of the 19 fallen Heroes on Tuesday. My 89 has been running hot in our cool 110 degree days. So, I flushed the system and changed all the gaskets and o-rings on the thermostat and the round diverter. Other than it was an absolute PIA, It seemed to button up pretty tight. I did not have a chance to ride it yesterday, but was able to idle it up to running temp. I can’t risk trashing the bike in 110ish degree - 500 mile round trip ride on Tuesday. This morning I went out to take it for a ride and there was a puddle under the bike. From looking at it, it appeared to be from the radiator area and I thought maybe it was residual from filling the radiator with coolant. The weird part was that the overflow bottle was bone dry. I had filled it half way. I filled it again ½ way. Rolled the bike outside and hosed off the whole radiator and under carriage area. Took her for a 10 mile ride. The temp seemed to be OK ( ½ way) for most of the ride. (picture) Once I got home it was a little higher than ½ way and after idling for a few minutes it went to the ¾’s area. But, once I put it on the center stand I noticed that it was puking coolant out of a drain type hose by the rear shock. (picture) I checked the overflow bottle and it was filled to the top. I have her cooling down on the center stand and paper under it to see if it drips and from where. Just wondering what you Gurus think. YES… the diverter thing-a-bob is turned to the correct (?) position with the writing upside down.

Plugs ... you need an 18mm thin wall socket. I use the one that came with my KLR650. Some have said that Lowes sells the thin wall. As for the electrical....sounds like the old stator is not handling the load, but that will be left to the many much smarter electrical minded gurus on here.. Good luck.. Or yea ..and welcome to the asylum.. you can check out , but you can never leave...

The earlier models including the 2000 did have a high failure rate for the rear drive line. Mine didn't, but many did. I forgot about that....

I had a Gold 2000 K1200 LT. Very comfy on the hwy. Sucked around town. They are very top heavy so slow turns can easily turn into a bike nap. On the K1200LT forum there were two types of owners, those who's bikes had taken a nap, and those who would eventually. The forum guys on the K1200LT forum were pretty nice and helpful. Less of them were on meds than on here.. Here is a link to the Frequently asked questions about the bike: http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/faq.php?faq=bmwlt_net_faq#faq_k1200lt_faq They are more expensive. My 12K check up was $1.00 per CC.. a little over $1200.00 just for a check up and oil change. They do strip the puppy down from all of it's tupperware though. Just changing the oil was a pain in the @$$. But it did ride nice, and i loved playing with the electric windscreen

Okay, let me know if you need it, I can go over Saturday and pull it out ..

Just looked... WingerDan is available as a screen name....

Hey..i'm kinda a visual guy..if you can post a picture I would sure like to get the right wires the first time. ..

Just send both of theirs to me Just kidding...

From where to where ? I think one of my 84's parts bikes had the CLASS on it so all the wiring should be there. I would need to know exactly what piece of wiring you would need and go over there to disassemble it.