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joboo

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Everything posted by joboo

  1. joboo
    Who do ya think got married? Her and the X/BF cause Beaver wouldn't make his move, or was it Her and the Beav cause he finally did. Either way we need an update!!
  2. joboo

    float adj on carbs

    joboo replied to a topic in Watering Hole

    Floats are adjusted by bending the tabs that contact the pin on the float needle. These pins get gunked up and stick be sure to check their operation if you are into the carbs that far anyway. Sticking pins usually results in overflows not starvation though unless they stick open make sure they operate freely. If you are using V7Goose procedure with the tubes from the drain to measure... leave them sit for at least 5 min to check for any changes. Any changes in the levels will indicate a problem with the needles, seats or the floats themselves.
  3. joboo
    May your rides be safe and the gremlins kept at bay!
  4. joboo
    I put Ultimates on my RSTC, added a trunk with a wraparound backrest and my wife loves it! She is wondering why I didn't put them on years ago, I told her that is because then she would want to ride all the time. Well, after picking myself up, she says too bad now I am going nowhere without her. Shucks! well I got away with it for a long time! Now it's 2 up time! The Ultimate for me was quite a change, it sits different on the bike and I think it actually improves handling as you are seated in a totally different position. But as always different strokes for different folks. Ultimate has a 14 day trial so they ...and you and yours can make the decision based on what you feel.. Try em!
  5. joboo
    There are lots of posts on clutch bleeding so I will leave you to do a little research, I have posted 2 pics even though the explanation is pretty clear and there is really only one rubber cover behind the rear cylinder. If you follow the lines down from the the master cylinder under the bike they attach to the slave cylinder and the bleeder is on top of that. To make the job easier remove the fins from the rear cylinder, it allows the rubber cover to come right off and gives the access to attach tubing. The pic shows the rubber cover lifted but held by the fins. Didn't know you Brits had such good taste in bikes! :TEAL:
  6. joboo
    I can't help myself throwing my 2 cents in on these carb issues since I have taken them apart so many times. I used one of the posts here that I think V7 Goose posted. When you have the carbs on the bench use a piece of clear tubing and slide on the drain nipple of the float bowl, bring the tubing up under the bowl and along side of the diaphragm cover and secure an inch or two higher than the cover. Use the stamped line on either side of the centerline of the cover as your reference. Open the drain screw and slowly pump some fuel into the fuel inlet tube. This should fill all of the carbs and the needle valve should shut them off when they get full. Set each of them to the exact same height at or slightly below the reference line as mentioned in the earlier posts. This is a little time consuming and I admit that I did the first one then used a set of calipers to set the rest then checked them all with the tubing once set so I didn't have to keep taking everything apart. Works like a charm, also found out using this same technique that one of the pins on one of my float needles was no good as the level in one of my tubes was not staying the same. Hope this helps!
  7. joboo
    I am gonna post this and expect lots of flack but here is what I have done for the best pilot settings.. i have 4 exhausts so after it has warmed up, I hold my hand directly behind each exhaust, if it is warm, it is too rich, dial it in 1/4 turn, the exhaust should actually feel cool. If it is really rich it will "pop" against your hand as you move your hand closer. Dial it in some more. (For you 96 guys this cuts way down on the decel pop as well) If it is too lean it feels weak and is almost cold, dial it out 1/4 turn. - cool not cold. A little practice and you can dial it in pretty good. I know this is not very scientific but it sure works, after a minute or so the pipes cool pretty good close to the cylinders too if everything is dialed in. I also use the homemade manometer setup for sync and it is awesome. My bike runs better than it ever has.... I only wish I had learned some of this stuff a few years earlier. BTW I learned a LOT of this stuff from the guys here on this forum. Greatest resources on the planet!
  8. joboo
    There is plenty of ground clearance on the 96 whether it be the classic or the deluxe. I do not know about adapting for air but it does not have an air tank. The MPG varies greatly depending on how the bike is configured and the conditions. I have the high windshield and windscreens and a strong headwind really eats the fuel. I probably get on average around 40 MPG (This is Florida and we have no hills and lots of wind!) and range is about 150 miles before the fuel light comes on, which you can run another 40 or so miles before you need to switch to reserve. Other than regular maintenance, I have no issues in-particular to look for. There is a great check list on here for normal bike items to look for when buying a used bike, I can't remember who wrote it so I can't give credit but a search ought to turn it up.
  9. joboo
    Another American Hero paying the ultimate price, I send prayers to the family, The price of freedom is not free. I will stand for those who stand for all of us! RIP SGT Walker.
  10. joboo
    All four are capped on the 96 Royal Star, Mine decel pops too, its not really a backfire, it may be annoying to some but it is harmless.
  11. joboo
    Really nice lookin bikes, MikeWa, seriously clean machine!
  12. joboo
    Unfortunately Toy, this is one of those things that you won't know till you get em off. I can tell you that I have never replaced my float bowl orings and they have been on and off somewhere near 50 times. I use some engine oil on my finger to coat them lightly prior to putting them on. I know there are lots of guys here that will tell you NOT to take off the carbs or only do it as a last resort. I completely understand but I think if you are at all mechanically inclined it is not that difficult. The reward is that you become much more familiar with your machine, you don't have to take it to the shop for every hiccup, it is mostly a lot cheaper and the rewarding feeling is great. The other benefits are that you can see for yourself if something needs fixed or replaced. I am guessing that you have never had the tank off, therefore you haven't seen the airfilter or know the condition of any of the hoses or clips or rubber boots other than what you can see peering in from the sides. I personally would never try to take the float bowls off while the carbs were still on the bike, they just aren't that accessible. BTW if you do decide to clean those pilots, count the turns very carefully back to seated position and then take them out for each one so you will know the factory settings. One more thing, my 81 never popped but my 96 has always had some decel popping since it was new, after everything that has ever been done to it, no shop or me has ever made that change or discovered any reason, The main suggestions over the years was to rejet with a different size and to do the slider shims, but I have gotten to where I kinda like the sound.
  13. joboo
    @ Prairiehammer, you are right Twigg was speaking directly to the OP. I was referring to the posts in general about why different folks talk about sync at higher RPM. I know when we reply we tend to relay our own experiences, In my first post on this topic I was trying to explain why sync was checked at the higher RPM, unfortunately in trying to keep it to a minimum a lot is left out. Twigg took it right in his last post (Thanks Twigg BTW) in his explanation for an 83. SETTING sync at idle on these years is correct and in all actuality is for my 96 as well. I was trying to point out that CHECKING sync at the different RPM does more for you because of the different types of porting. Again Twigg was right because most of the time when these things are asked the folks asking need a starting place and some of us (me included) tend to go into too much detail and confuse the issue....So the right answer for his year should have been SET the sync at idle, ride> If not responding correctly after ride, check sync again at idle and check again at 2k RPM to facilitate further troubleshooting. My bad, Sorry Twigg you were right!
  14. joboo
    Don't want to start a pi**ing contest Twigg but there is a significant difference between the carbs on an 86 and the carbs on a 96. The internal circuits are different, even the mikuni book refers to the 86 carb thumb screw as a throttle adjust rather than an idle adjust for the thumb screw on the 96. The air mixture is ported differently so the diaphragms are different, because the pilot jet (air) is located behind the diaphragm you would probably not want to sync at a higher RPM for those carbs. The 96 carbs however, are not ported that way and the circuits "overlap" differently with the change in RPM. The porting is evident if you put an inspection mirror down the throat of the two different carbs and count the holes. I think experience for whatever model is going to be slightly different and it is good to hear from those experiences. You did bring up something that is important and that is for folks to be sure to identify their bikes so that they can get the help for the bike they have. Sorry Dude just my
  15. joboo
    Thanks Good info!
  16. joboo
    this is a pic of the carbs on my 96 RSTC should be the same carbs. There are what looks like three holes on the flat portion, just under the round diaphragm covers. The center hole would be covered with the brass plug had mine not been removed. You can barely see the screw down the center hole on each one.
  17. joboo
    We were at Soloman's Castle near Arcadia, Awesome backroads ride not to far from where I live on the edge of Sarasota county. Good food, music and a very popular bike destination.
  18. joboo
    I read this a couple of times and still not sure whether you had the choke on when you were syncing the carbs but you definitely do not want the choke on at all when doing a carb sync. Even though these are constant velocity carbs they are operated on different circuits, the pilot circuit at idle which "hands off" to the mains circuit at above idle is really what you should be checking with the sync operation. The choke is a separate circuit that contributes to the pilot and the mains. One of the reasons that you should sync at idle and at the higher RPM is to make sure that the fuel air mix is constant (which was aptly pointed out is really an average) through the range. Anytime you throttle you are changing the vacuum and it will vary like mentioned in a previous post but should even up pretty quickly with a steady rpm. Just my 2 cents worth.
  19. joboo
    Just a couple of pics from our ride, Maria is the pretty one, and still looks good after puttin up with me for 29 years!
  20. joboo

    My new Bike!!

    joboo replied to Dano's topic in Watering Hole

    sweet lookin ride dude, Congrats!
  21. joboo
    Have ya noticed that lil beaver has been posting and then when we bring this up he disappears for awhile? Me thinks he is hidin! SPILL Dude! We want details!
  22. joboo
    Prayers for your niece, it is a mystery of life why bad things happen to good people, hopefully good will prevail!
  23. joboo
    I think it looks totally awesome! Great job! I am jealous I couldn't match mine as well as you did!
  24. joboo
    Thanks for posting KIC. It really does warm the soul to know that there are still good folks in places you are least likely to expect them.
  25. joboo
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