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Yamamike

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Everything posted by Yamamike

  1. That's what I'm thinkin!
  2. Excellent idea Jeff! Thanks.
  3. I will but if it is it would have to be in what appears to be the original wire harness. Thanks
  4. Thanks Don...I'll keep this in mind!
  5. Hey Trader, IMHO you can't be wrong by following the manual but don't forget...they were written 25+ years ago and spark plug technology has evolved (like everything else).
  6. Great info Gary!! I've had the nomenclature explained to me before (heat range mostly) but this is fantastic. If you can't find the plugs you need. You can match up any brand and be sure of what you're getting.
  7. I've been trying several different methods from this thread and others. Not sure about long term but the acetone/ABS shavings "paste" seems to do the best job of "welding" the cracks. I have been grooving out the crack as well. This also hardens quicker. My latest test was a two part epoxy which is the same colour as my black beauty. Just did that last night so I'll report back to let y'all know how well it did.
  8. Would a complete MK2 dash unit work on a MK1??
  9. Well I guess if neither the 1k or 2k ohm resistor did the trick, it ain't likely the probe will huh? Anyone know what I should expect to pay for a CMU board?
  10. That's what I have...wet cell that is.
  11. Hmmm...I do have the probe! I just may give that a try.
  12. I think you're confusing a resistor with a diode. As far as I know resistors are all bi-directional but I could be wrong. Hey it happened twice just this year:322:.
  13. This is what I tried but thanks!
  14. OK so I have the red warning light flashing and the battery icon lit. PO said it was cuz he installed an aftermarket "maintenance free" battery which does not accept the sending unit for electrolyte level. Read the thread explaining how to bypass with a resistor. Tried both 1k ohm and 2.2k ohm resistors with no success. Ayone have any other suggestions?
  15. Depending on which pin falls out, you will no longer be able to shift up past that point. When I bought my 83, it would not go into 4rd or 5th. It would shift down all the way to first and back up to 3rd and that's it. When I pulled the clutch side cover to see if that was the problem, I pulled one of the other pins to measure...it's a 4mm x 20mm dowel pin. There are 5 20mm long pins and one shorter. The one I needed is about 4mm shorter (sorry but I did not think to measure) but could only get a 20mm long one and ground it down to fit. You can't cut these with a hack saw they are hardened. Just thought I'd pass this along for anyone who might get stuck...you don't have to wait for one from a dealer.
  16. Hey Dan...I can't find the procedure you referred to. Any chance you can??
  17. Can't be any worse than the Virago carbs...which is why I changed it to a single carb:) but maybe I'll try it first
  18. Nope...just got this ol girl and she only has 57K (kilometers). As good as Seafoam is I'm thinking she'll need more than that. Had it out for a run last night to make sure the shifter dowel pin fix was a fix. It was but she runs rough. I do use seafoam for winterising though. Still have to put some in the Virago (which is for sale:whistling:)
  19. I'm thinking maybe not so much for reassembly though:shock3:
  20. Need to remove them to clean em out!
  21. Here's another question...should cracks be grooved out or is it best to just leave them. I know the acetone will creep into the crack but I doubt epoxies will since they have a much thicker consistency.
  22. Hey Saddlebum...where did you pick up the Plastex??
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