rougeray

Bought 4 new coolant plugs/freeze plugs yesterday for my 07RSV. The parts counter jockey could not find it and wanted me to pull one and bring it in for identification. After I insisted that if he couldn't find it call another more experienced parts jockey. He eventually went to the lead mechanic after a suggestion from another jockey. He came back and said the mechanic referred to it as a freeze plug. He pulled it up on the computer that refers to it as a "PLUG". They had 4 in stock but this took around 20 min to complete the identification and sale. I would imagine that all the engines that have a freeze plug are the same. They were very proud of these plugs here in Baton Rouge as they were $8.99 apiece plus tax. P/N 90338-11152. Save this P/N if you are planning on changing these anytime soon and keep the ole blood pressure down!

Drill bit? Mix some JB Weld and apply to the hinge both sides just enough to prevent bit from vibrating out.

If your gonna be doing a lot trailering I would suggest a razor trailer. The bed of the trailer lowers to the ground and you drive on it. Check the web sit out. razortrailers.com. This is what I use and haven't dropped it yet!

After a quick search of his web site I found this info: Cleaning and removing air when repairing hydraulic steering As with any hydraulic system, cleanliness is imperative. Routinely replacing power steering fluid may prevent many problems. When a steering component fails, it is necessary to remove any debris from the system. Filtering machines are often used by shops for this purpose. If no such machine is available, removing the return hose and continuously pouring fluid into the reservoir is better than nothing. Hydraulic steering will not operate properly if air is caught in the system. Air most often enters when there is a leak, allowing the reservoir to empty. Air may also enter through weak seals on the input side or during part replacement. With air in the system, there is often a characteristic whine or moan when the steering wheel is turned. Some systems will self-bleed when the fluid is replenished. It may be very difficult to remove the air from other systems. The following procedure gives good results in most instances, without special equipment. Power steering bleeding procedure Fill the power steering reservoir with the proper fluid and leave the cap off. Raise the front wheels off the ground and support them. Without starting the engine, grasp one wheel and slowly turn it in until it stops. Wait a few seconds, and turn out until the wheel stops. Repeat this procedure about ten times, waiting several seconds between cycles. Top off the reservoir, replace the cap and start the engine. If noise is still present, repeat the procedure. Power steering is like most things, prevention is the best policy. Regularly replacing power steering fluid and repairing leaks immediately will prevent most major problems. Selecting quality tires also has a big affect on steering components. Low quality tires are simply too expensive when the cost of damage they cause is considered.

Send an email to Louis at agcoauto.com. He will usually answer within 24 hrs. He will be on the radio Saturday morning between 10 & 11 on WJBO Baton Rouge, LA if you want to talk to him personally. His web site has a tremendous amount of information and it may already have an answer listed. Have all my work done at his shop. Good luck!

Hmm....I can see no reason the "Backup Fuse" would be needed as the manual states it is for the odometer & clock. Not sure how that ties into the capacitor or R/R. The clock & odometer are located in the instrument cluster. To reset the clock or odometer you use the two buttons labeled RESET & SELECT to the left of the right front speaker. I would be looking in that area. You said you had traced a short to the backup fuse but its not blowing the fuse. Don't follow that. What exactly is the problem? 1. Backup fuse (for odometer and clock) 2. Radiator fan fuse 3. Headlight fuse 4. Signaling system fuse 5. Ignition fuse 6. Spare fuse

Never heard of a back up fuse. Where is it located? What size is it?

Don't suppose they would take an 07 Midnight RSV with 63,000 miles on it on a trade?

I have replaced the starter relay/main fuse assembly twice on my 07 RSV. Both times heavily corroded. The last time I applied dielectric grease liberally. I have know idea why it corrodes so badly. It is a bear to change due to its location. Below is a link to csdexter's fix. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79150&highlight=Starter+relay

Facet 40171: from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co. I mounted mine where the OEM pump was located. To hold it in place I used a sheet metal screw and a tie wrap. I had to drill a hole for the sheet metal screw and it required a 90 degree drill due to the location. You will need fittings for the pump and some fuel line. I suggest moving your fuel filter under the seat while you do this for ease of replacement.

I lost the one on my 07 RSV. It's been gone a long time to!

Yep you can get a hydrostatic lock if the fuel pump does not have a mechanism to prevent flow past it when not operating. Gravity flow of the fuel past the pump then through a leaky float valve in the carburetor which dumps the fuel into a cylinder. The OEM fuel pump for the RSV prevents fuel flow past the pump when not in use. If you replace the OEM pump with an after market pump be sure to purchase one that will do the same. If not be prepared to shut the fuel off at the petcock or you COULD experience a hydrostatic lock! Liquid gasoline is not compressible. .

What year a model of bike? Need detail of what led up to this.

Just checked my 07 instrument lights when starting. The oil pressure light (bottom left) and water temp. (bottom right) come on when start button is pushed. If the kill switch is on only the water temp light comes on. Thanks for the info V7Goose.

Save yourself some grief and get the Facet 40171. It has a positive shut off when the key is turned off. If you do not close the fuel petcock and with a full tank of fuel you have the potential of fuel leaking past the carburetor and into the cylinders. This will give you a hydraulic lock that could damage the engine or starter. At the very least it will scare the hell outta you when it locks the engine. Don't ask how I know. Oh and contaminate the oil!

Make sure the pump you choose has a positive shut off built in with the key off. If not and you have a full tank gasoline you have the potential of fuel seeping past the carburetors and into a cylinder. A liquid is not compressible and you will get a hydraulic lock. Don't ask how I know! ::sign **** happens:

"These unique, all-leather bags attach quickly to the passenger grab rails, offering easy access to small items such as cell phones and glasses, while leaving the grab rails open for use. (Sold in pairs)" The above is the quote from Star Motorcycle's advertisement. I would have tried putting them on the passengers grab rails also. Who would think they go on the crash bars?

I have replaced the one on my 07 twice for the same reason. Tough place to work for fat fingers.

I plan on switching them when I get the bike back. Last week while on a trip to TN a float or floats stuck open in the carborator. Gasoline was dumping on the ground with the key turned on. Had to have it towed to a dealer in Knoxville then rent a car to get home. Hopefully he will have it ready by the end of next week. I made a post several weeks ago about what I thought was a starter problem. In hind sight it was a hydraulic lock of one of the cylinders due to a float leaking fuel into a cylinder.

My antenna's are installed wrong. I rarely use the AM/FM and have fooled with the CB once. They both work but the CB did not seem to have any range. Would they work but not to design specifications?.

I had the same problem a month or so ago. Went to a lock smith and he sprayed it with some silicon in a spray can. He DID NOT recommend using graphite as he said it had the tendency to turn to a paste when it got wet. He also said NOT to press down when turning the key. A method he showed me works every time. Grip the key withe thumb and index finger. Slightly pull back towards the key ring then turn the key. You can feel a slight bit of sloppiness in the lock mechanism when you pull back then turn. Works every time! Dealer wanted I think $180.00 for a new lock. Plus you have to drill out the existing bolts as this is an anti thief feature. Not sure if new bolts with break away heads come with the new lock.

This morning (1st start) when I pressed the start button I heard a loud clunk when the starter tried to engage. It was so loud I thought the left crankcase cover may have cracked. I tried to start several more times but the starter sounded like something was in a bind or that something was in the starters gears preventing it from turning. I moved the bike to a place where I could get a jack stand under it then lifted it up and tried it again . Bike started with no problems. Starter appears to be ok. One thing that may be different is the bike was straight up not leaning on the side stand like it was when I originally tried to start. I have started it numerous times on the side stand though. I looked up posts on starter problems and all that I found were on 1st generation starter problems. Has anyone run into something like this on a 2nd generation? I was attempting to start and move the bike this morning to replace the starter relay. While changing the OEM fuel pump to a Facet fuel pump last week I noticed extreme corrosion at the 30 amp main fuse and the 4 pin connector of the relay. I replaced this relay once before for the same reason. Has anyone had this problem before? You would not normally look at this relay unless you were troubleshooting an electrical problem. Yamaha buried the thing and its a bear to change! I did put some dielectric grease on the connections this time. Not something you would want to fool with on the road!

When you say nothing do you mean no headlight and no dash lights? If so check the main fuse at the starter relay. It is located behind the left side cover to the right of the fuse box. I am replacing the whole relay this morning as the socket the fuse sits in was totally corroded as was the 4 pin connector. This is the second one I have replaced. Gonna try some dielectric grease this time!

Mike, I have an 07 RSV and I have antifreeze leak also. It only happens in the winter time when the day temperature is relatively warm but cools off at night. Say 60-70's in the day and 30-50's at night. This is not an issue with the plug behind the fake fin. I do believe it is some where around the radiator filler cap or radiator connection. I have yet to take the time track it down as it only happens when the night time temps drop and it only leaks a small amount of antifreeze. I live in Baton Rouge and as the temperatures are in 70-80's with night time lows in the 60's so it is not a problem now. I bought this bike new and I notice this the first winter I had it. I also thought it was a radiator leak initially.

Thanks guys for the info. I wished I had posted sooner as I would have pulled the pump and made the trip. Guess I'll just watch the race on Speed Channel. My new pump will be here late tomorrow. I did buy a Posi-Flo 40105 as V7Goose suggest as an alternant pump. I'll let ya know how it woks out. Gonna change the filter while I'm in there. Thanks again!