rougeray

I have been using Bearkat safety glass's for several years now. Can be purchased at Amazon, Fastenal or Granger. You can get different strengths but they are usually not in stock. If you order from Fastenal or Granger you should be able to get them over night and not have to pay for shipping. I have tinted for day and clear for night. Never leave home without them!

It is very important to change then flush the old DOT 4 fluid out of the system. I try to do it every year, not sure what Yamaha recommends. Speed Bleeders make the a very easy maintenance task.

Is it possible you have a hydraulic lock from liquid gasoline in the cylinder? One test is to remove spark plugs and try turning it over.

Chances are you were sucking air around the threads of the bleeder. I had the same problem the other day. When I purchased my Speed Bleeders I also purchased the thread sealer. I did something stupid the other day that I won't go into and I had to completely bleed the rear brake system which meant I had install the original bleeder and use the vacuum bleeder. I could not get all the air bubbles out till I removed the bleeder and applied the thread sealer.

At what mileage are you changing the front brake pads? I have 68,000 on mine and they look good. I have been changing the rears about every 6,000-7,000 miles. I know I use the rears more than a normal driver as I started out riding bikes that had drums and I was always cautioned to not lock up the front. Now I'm riding a bike that has double disks up front and should be used more than the single rear, plus this is one heavy scoot! Not only that most of my riding is on flat ground. Not to many mountains here in south Louisiana. Also does anyone have the plastic cover that goes on the rear caliper?

Got around to changing the rear shock today. Was not as hard as I thought it would be. Got the bike up on the carbon-one-freestanding-lift-adapter and changed the oil. Pulled the left side front brake caliper to check the pads. Looked good even after 68,839 miles. Soooo on to changing the shock. Took the time to read up on what was the best way to go about doing this. As noted in several threads it was not necessary to remove the rear wheel but the passenger floor boards along with the plastic cover behind them had to come off, both sides. Loosened the nuts top and bottom and removed the nut that held on the air filler valve for the air assist. Then put the craftsman jack under the rear tire and jacked up till the preload on the lower bolt was removed and removed the lower bolt. Lifted the shock by hand till the upper bolt could be removed. Removed the shock and washed my hands as they were covered with oil and road dirt. Installed the new shock and lower bolt then raised and lowered the jack till the upper portion of shock lined up so the upper bolt could be inserted. I did use my mechanical fingers to insert the bolt as I could not get my hand in there. Once it was started I used a 3/8" extension to drive the bolt in place. Then installed and tightened the lower nut. Had to put the nut for the upper bolt in my right hand and snake my hand behind the rear lefthand crash bar and frame and start it by hand. For the upper nut you will need an extension and a 3/8" swivel as the bolt and nut are offset. I did not have a problem getting the nuts loose as some people did. I also was able to lay on my side and look at the upper part of the shock and raise and lower the jack with my foot all the while looking at the the hole the bolt went through. This made it easy to align the shock with the frame. I would guess this is about an hour and a half job from jacking the bike up on the carbon-one-freestanding-lift-adapter till you set it back on the ground. The shock installed was the Hagon M62097. As I normally ride by myself and don't pull a trailer this is $399.00 model. They also make one for two up and trailer that is a little more expensive. Road it around the block and all appears ok.

Attention!!!If you replace the original bleeders with SPEED BLEEDERS save the originals! I suggest you put them in the packages the speed bleeders came in and mark the package as to where the bleeders go. They will be needed if you ever have to bleed the system using a vacuum pump. If a system gets air into it for what ever reason a vacuum pump will be needed to remove the air. You can bleed the system with a vacuum pump in a matter of minutes where as if you don't have one it could take hours if not days. Harbor Freight sold a plastic model and a more expensive metal model which is what I have. I think the plastic model would be more than adequate.

I believe there are 3 that can be used but I can't remember the name of the 3rd one. I'm not willing to pay $900.00 plus for the Works Performance, I don't care what it does and I won't buy a OEM shock. The 3rd one I believe is cheaper than the Hagon but is not repairable. Maybe someone can expound on this?

I was over at my sons the other day and noticed a spot on the carport under the shock. Got on my hands and knees and could see the bottom of the shock was wet and a drop was fix'n to fall. Drove home and the next morning a few drops had puddled under the shock. Well made my trip yesterday and the bike ran flawlessly. Was a bit nipplely in a tee shirt when I took off at 8:30 but by the time the afternoon rolled around it was in the 80's with low humidity. Great ride but my ears got sun burnt. Gonna order a Hagon today or tomorrow. Now I gotta find that thread abound changing the shock.

Just noticed my rear shock is starting to leak. This morning it looks like 3-4 drops of oil under the shock. Looked up the "THE WORKS PERFORMANCE" replacement and it's priced at $919.00! Does that sound right? Checked on a Hagon and it's under $500.00. Bike has around 67,000 miles. I want to ride about 350 miles tomorrow so I was wondering if anyone has ridden that far after they discover the shock leaking? BTW it is holding air.

Ok here’s the pics of the Facet 40171 installation. You can get it at aircraftspruce.com. Around $45.00 if memory serves me. You have to procure the fittings at the local ACE Hardware or an automotive shop. I installed the pump at the existing pumps location and I attached it using a self tapping screw and a tie wrap. Make sure it is located so the cover that was removed can be reinstalled. Don’t ask why I know! The hole I drilled was made with a 90 degree drill. I had the 90 degree drill but you can probably get one at Harbor Freight. That attached the top of the pump. For the bottom I used a tie wrap. I cut the existing electrical connector off the original pump and soldered it to the Faucet pump making sure the 12 volt supply and the common were correctly connected. While I was in there I relocated the fuel filter under the seat as recommended in an earlier post. This was all done before someone located replacement points. Had I had that info I would have opted to replace the points as this was a pain in the a**. I do not recommend using a pump that does not have the shut off feature. If you have a needle and seat that does not seal, fuel has the potential to drain into a cylinder and give you a hydraulic lock.

Save yourself some grief and get the Facet 40171. It has a positive shut off when the key is turned off. If you do not close the fuel petcock and with a full tank of fuel you have the potential of fuel leaking past the carburetor and into the cylinders. This will give you a hydraulic lock that could damage the engine or starter. At the very least it will scare the hell outta you when it locks the engine. Don't ask how I know. Oh and contaminate the oil! Having said all that I would opt for replacing the points as the Facet 40171 requires coming up with a way to mount and requires fittings and possible additional hose. I have some pictures I'll post shortly. While your in there might as well move your fuel filter to where it can be changed easily.

I had the same problem a year or so ago. Went to a lock smith and he sprayed it with some silicon in a spray can. He DID NOT recommend using graphite as he said it had the tendency to turn to a paste when it got wet. He also said NOT to press down when turning the key. A method he showed me works every time. Grip the key withe thumb and index finger. Slightly pull back towards the key ring then turn the key. You can feel a slight bit of sloppiness in the lock mechanism when you pull back then turn. Works every time! Dealer wanted I think $180.00 for a new lock. Plus you have to drill out the existing bolts as this is an anti thief feature. Not sure if new bolts with break away heads come with the new lock.

I believe I read this in Cycle magazine years ago and it has served me well. When approaching a vehicle at an intersection, side road etc. focus on the front wheel or tire. Look to see if it starts to move or turn. You will see it move before you notice the entire vehicle start to move. It will only be a split second but that may be all you need to apply the brakes or make an evasive maneuver. A pet peeve of mine is tinted windows. I always try to get eye to eye contact with the driver. Obviously if the window is tinted excessively this is impossible. One more thing about tinted windows. Remember when congress mandated the additional brake light in the back window so that we would see if traffic ahead was applying the brakes and how this would reduce accidents? Depending on the degree of tinting you can barely if at all see the driver much less what is going on ahead of him..

I repaired a broken trunk latch bracket using Devcon Plastic Welder. For the push fitting spread the Devcon liberally allow it to become tacky then place the push pin where it broke off. Give it 24 hrs and you should be good to go. The bracket I repaired has held for over a year. I'll take a picture of it tomorrow. As for the other stress cracks I think they are due to the crash bar being bent. I would make an aluminum doubler and attach it behind the cracks using the plastic welder. Agin spread the Devcon liberally then press the doubler in place. You could also fiberglass the cracked area but I would try the Devcon first. When putting it back together make sure everything aligns properly so there is no stress on the fairing.

Kinda pricey but if you dropped your phone or iPad in the water it paid for its self. http://drytunes.com/

I sent you a privite message. Would like to hookup.

I wonder if the two on the trike had helmets on? The other couple didn't have a chance.

http://www.rammount.com/products/motorcycles.htm I have a RAM mount for my Tom Tom. Works great and fast delivery.

Facet 40171: from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co. It has a positive shut off when the key is turned off. There are other fuel pumps that don't have this feature. if you don't have this feature and you do not close the fuel petcock and with a full tank of fuel you have the potential of fuel leaking past the carburetor and into the cylinders. This will give you a hydraulic lock that could damage the engine or starter. At the very least it will scare the hell outta you when it locks the engine. Don't ask how I know. Oh and contaminate the oil!

In the state of Louisiana if you are arrested for pot (from a seed on up) and are in possession of a firearm and are convicted of such, it is a mandatory 5 years in the slammer! The judge has no leeway, it is mandatory! Ten years for second offence! So your sitting in your house smoking a joint minding your own business. Cops come to your door for what ever and smell pot. They can enter your house search for drugs and if you have hunting guns or say a pistol for protection the above law applies. I'm a Vietnam vet and I remember the "juicers" alcohol drinkers and the "stoners". The juicers would go to the club and get all sh*t faced and want to fight while the stoners would sit back, relax and laugh at them. Legalize it!

Definition: "A gasket is a mechanical seal which fills the space between two or more mating surfaces, generally to prevent leakage from or into the joined objects while under compression." Putting sealing agents such as RTV, Permatex, etc are not needed on a gasket if not called for by the mfg. By the above definition the gasket is THE sealing agent. Too many times I have seen a sealing agent added to a gasket not only created a mess but actually was the cause of a leak at the seal point. There are times where a sealing agent can be used to hold a gasket in place while assembling two surfaces but it should be used sparingly. There are products made specifically for that. One of the big problems of using a sealing agent is cleaning the surfaces at a later date. Trying to clean off the previous sealing material from the surfaces can actually damaged the surface so that the OEM gasket would not seal. All of the above applies to o-ring sealing surfaces. Be careful when using a sealing agent between two metal surfaces such as Teflon tape. This should never be used in system where it could break loose and plug an orifice that provides lubrication or say plug an orifice in a pneumatic system. If the proper gasket or o-ring is installed with no dressing and the sealing surfaces are clean and scratch free and the bolts, nuts, screws are torqued in the proper sequence, the seal will not leak. Just my

Ditto to the previous post.

In reference to having a vibration at 70 or below in 5th gear bear in mind that the speedo is off by 5-6 mph. You are actually only doing 65. I never run below 70 in 5th gear. When merging with traffic on the interstate I'll typical run up to 80 or 85 before shifting. Sometimes even higher depending on the traffic.

Got out in 72 after tours in Germany and Vietnam. Used the VA benefit to get my "Airframe & Power Plant" license. Lived and partied on the money. Had to pay back a loan for school after I finished. A roommate in school tried not to pay back the loan but the government came after him. Worked on planes and helicopters for several years but no money in it. What is this about transferring the VA benefit? BTW if any of you are losing or can't afford health care due to Obama Care there is the VA. Long waits for appointments though. They have been very good helping me with a knee problem. You can get your prescription drugs on line and have them delivered to your house.