rougeray

Mine has Midnight Venture etched in cursive.

My head light bulb a PIAA 10934 high beam gave it up the other day. Amazon no longer cares it but there are several other venders that still do. I went to PIAA's web site but apparently it is no longer being mfg. It appears this is the newer model of this bulb. http://www.piaa.com/store/p/159-H4-XTreme-White-Plus-Single-Halogen-Bulb.aspx In looking around the web I came across this bulb. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Bright-Motorcycle-H4-CREE-LED-Headlight-Bulb-30w-Hi-Lo-Beam-Plug-n-Play-/390827752473?nma=true&si=Lr24UaVyEtstu797V%252FxHblhd5Xs%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 Has anyone tried it? There is a post on YouTube that shows one and it is very impressive. If it is a true plug and play I would be interested. As a rule I don't drive at night but sometimes that rule gets broken and I need as much light as possible. Any comments would be appreciated.

Well, did you make it to your parents house all right and on ETA? Bet it got cold that night.

I guess you are past Shreveport. I made it home and voted! Louisiana is a little redder.....hehe. Be safe.

That won't do you a bit of good when the battery is broken internally. That's what happened to me with the T battery. I removed it, charged it with jumper cables for about 15 min reinstalled and used jumper cables to start it. When the cables were removed the engine died. I have had this happen on a car battery as well. Both times this happened everything was fine until the bike/car was shut off. When attempting to restart the battery was totally dead. No warning at all. If your willing to play Russian roulette with your battery so be it. It's just not for me. BTW I always carry jumper cables. But in the case of an internal break they are useless. That's not to say replacing the battery every 3 yrs will prevent a break down but the odds are in your favor if you do. Just my humble opinion.

WOW Thank all of you for your replies. Looks like the Kawasaki is off the list. That's a shame as it's a good looking bike and the heat from the engine is the only bad thing anyone had to say about it. Price is good to. My 07 has 75,000 miles on it and she runs better now than when I bought it thanks to some work done on it by Honda Yamaha of Knoxville. If your in that area and need work done, they have my recommendation. I lost all confidence in the Honda Yamaha dealer here in BTR after they gave me the run around when the clutch started slipping and the cassette door would not latch around 40,000 miles. All should have been covered by the 5 yr warranty. Thanks to this forum I was able to get the SkyDoc_17 heavy duty clutch spring which solved the clutch slipping. I'm living with the cassette door. Soooo what I'm saying is after sleeping on getting a new bike maybe what I've got is good. I know the bike and would not hesitate to take off to CA tomorrow. Thanks agin for all the info and recommendations. Hmmm Christmas is right around the corner.......maybe Santa Klaus will have something in his sleigh for me!

This sounds like a problem with the starter relay. I am not familiar with your bike but if the relay is clicking and you have a new battery and it would not turn the engine over even with a jump start I would look at the starter relay. I have replaced mine twice due to corrosion and I have an 07. You also said you have no lights. Locate the starter relay and see if it has a 30 amp fuse built into the assembly. I have found the fuse was so corroded that you could not remove it. The fuse was good but the knife blades that fit into the socket were so corroded it could not be removed. Of course you can take a have gauge wire from the battery and momentarily touch the wire going to the starter. It will spark but your starter should turn over. If you try this hold the wire on the positive terminal of the battery then touch the wire going to the starter. Do not do it the other way around as you do not want sparking around the battery. Any hydrogen fumes coming from the battery could cause the battery to explode. If you can't find anything obvious you are gonna need a volt ohm meter to trouble shoot. Please follow up on the forum on what you find was wrong. This will help members in assisting others in trouble.

What is a good way to find these lift overs?

YouTube says it's not available?

Kinda got the itch to buy a new bike. I would buy a new RSV but alas Yamaha doesn't make them anymore. Don't like the looks of the Indians Victory's & BMW's don't like the dependability of a Harley (air cooled engine), Suzuki for get it. Sooo that leaves the Kawasaki 1700 Voyager ABS. Has anybody got experience with this bike. Would like to stay with the V4 engine but......

Thanks for sharing the article. Very informative. I am always amazed at the people on this forum who have battery problems. The normal life of a battery is 3-4 years. It is not uncommon to read that a member has a battery that is 6 years or older! It is like a badge honor to see how long it will last. This is a breakdown waiting to happen. After having a battery on a brand new Honda 1100 Shadow go belly up after a year I got into the habit of replacing it every year. It was a bastard design as it was shaped like a T. It is much cheaper and less stressful to replace your battery just as you would change your oil. I typically ride solo on trips so it is important to me to have a dependable battery. Just got back from a ride to the Texas hill country from Baton Rouge, LA. Prior to that I rode up to east TN to visit and ride with friends in the Smoky Mts. I didn't need a $100.00 item with a predicted life span to leave me stranded.

Try this. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=836773#post836773 I recommend replacing the points. Regardless get the pump that shuts off the flow of fuel when bike is turned off. BTW you can ride the bike without a pump if you bypass it and keep the tank full. When gravity/head pressure will no longer provide enough fuel I don't know but that's easily found out with a spare tank of fuel on board. Remember to shut off the fuel when the bike is not running.

The problem with this repair is you MUST shut the fuel petcock off when the engine is not running. Forget this step and you may get a engine hydraulic lock!

Here is a link to a web site I use for my automotive questions. Great site. I don't think you have the right numbers. Not a wise idea to use tires that are over 6 yrs old regardless what they look like. http://www.agcoauto.com/content/Reading_the_age_of_a_tire

Here is some information posted by VentureFar. Since you have already bought a new pump you can get a set of these points and rebuild your old pump and have a spare. Sure beats buying a new pump! It is an aftermarket set. This is where I got them and how much I paid. You can buy them from many sources and almost all the others are less expensive and free shipping. It is only because of the exorbitant charge for shipping that I do not recommend my supplier. just google 18-4615 and you will see the same part everywhere and cheaper.. Same part, exactly. Even the service writer at North Hollywood Yamaha when pressed agreed a better fix is points replacement instead of a whole new fuel pump. 18-4615 - K&L Supply Universal Fuel Pump Point Switch Kit Universal Fuel Pump Point Switch Kit Color: Black @$33.95ea. Subtotal: $33.95 Shipping: $17.77 via UPS Ground Estimated Delivery: 2/24/14 - 2/27/14 Sales Tax: $0.00 Total Amt: $51.72 http://www.powersportswarehouse.com 329 By pass 123 Seneca, SC 29678 864-888-8123 Hope this helps. VentureFar...

Had the same problem. A guy came by my house and welded it for me on the bike. I would look for a shop that can weld it for you on the bike. That way it should not have any stress on it. After the weld job paint it with some silver paint. Ya won't even know its been repaired. A new support was $520.00 big ones a couple of yrs ago. Check out this thread it has a picture of the break. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=728620#post728620

Brian I'm with you. The last time I crossed into Canada I swore I would never go back due to the hassle at the border. I will say this that I was crossing the border to do work and I know that is frowned upon. But the hassle they put me through was not called for and I have traveled all over the world do to work including Australia. Now it's even worse since 9/11. But I have got to warn people our Customs and Border Protection agents are no better. BTW if you have been arrested forget it. See what our people did to some Boy Scouts. http://p.washingtontimes.com/news/2014/jul/27/border-agent-draws-gun-boy-scout-taking-photo-troo/.

I just put two new Dunlap E3's on my 07 RSV yesterday. Since the last two rear tires I have put on have been a magnet for screws and nails I decided to give the Ride-On a try. The above tires require 9 oz each for a full charge but the bottles for a motorcycle come in 8 oz. Sooooo that means I needed 3 bottles and at $14.95 a bottle at the local Cycle Gear store we're talking 50 big ones after you figure in the governments "fair share". As you can see this stuff can be pricy. BUT.....if it works....it will be well worth price!

Hmm....would not go any further with this shop. They trouble shoot by changing parts. If you can afford it go for it.

Cleaned the clutch reservoir and front brake reservoir yesterday and installed new fluid. Opened the speed bleeders and flushed out the old fluid then topped off the reservoirs. Did all of this in an hours time which included removing the fake cylinder fins on the back left hand side cylinder to get to the bleeder for the clutch. BTW soaking up the dirty fluid with a paper towel is an easy way to remove the old fluid. A Qtip will clean the dirt in the crevasses. Speed Bleeders are the greatest thing since sliced bread. BTW save yourself some money and grief and do this once a year. If not dot 4 attracts moisture which caused corrosion which is not good in a hydraulic system!!!

Let us know how it turns out.

Send an email to Louis at agcoauto.com. He will usually answer within 24 hrs. He will be on the radio Saturday morning between 10 & 11 on WJBO Baton Rouge, LA if you want to talk to him personally . His web site has a tremendous amount of information and it may already have an answer listed. Have all my work done at his shop.

When I finally got around to changing my shock due to the leaking oil I could tell no difference between the new one and the leaking old one. Soooo my conclusion is just because it is leaking don't go into panic mode. I would not suggest going on a long distance trip where you might be days away from home but if your putt'en to and from work or riding locally figure out what replacement unit you want and when you want to do it. BTW I purchased and installed the Hagon shock. It was I believe around $399.00 If you do a lot of 2 up and or pull a trailer they have one that's a little more expensive. I still have the old one if someone would like it you can have it for the shipping cost.

For those of you who spend extra for thr chrome horn this is what it looks like after 2 1/2 yrs.

Amazon has a pump for $36 and change. Free shipping. Bagger Werx 07-012 Motorcycle Air Shock Hand Pump by Bagger Werx Link: http://amzn.com/B004Y18GKM