Jump to content

Max

Supporting Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    317

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Max

  1. Max
    20 hours to tentative departure (minus time to post this) for 3 week east coast trip and I find a missing piece of plastic and cracked plastic around backrest to trunk connection last night. I've read of this problem somewhere, should have payed closer attention to these threads. Get right to it, looking for any advice next 12 hours for temp fix to get thru trip & NYRally. Materials I've picked up : A pint of 2 part Dominion Plastic repair Rigid Flex Bonder, JB Weld putty stick, PF230 pinch&bond weld primer, 14 gauge sheet metal. Plan is to cut 2 pieces sheet metal, one for the missing piece and a large one to replace the existing metal plate and cover the entire cracked area from the inside. I've worked on small areas prior with the Dominion plastic. Not to sure about the long term affects on plastic using the PF250, so might drop that step. Any suggestions welcome (1st gen one liners:no-no-no:) Off to cut up some sheet metal... Will check back periodically. thanks Max
  2. Max
    another 'E4' victim of recent, repaired this aft, just shy of 2 hours. found 4 cracked solder connections visually, resoldered all connections at plug.... thanks for posting the fix Don http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=493&highlight=e4fix now,what was the question.
  3. Max
    I was told by our local Yamy dealer that unleaded fuel wasn't an issue with the '87'. The only concern was that ethanol has a tendancy to dry out the vulcanizing properties of the rubber components in the carbs. Apparently the only fuel up here that doesn't have ethanol is premium (if it's ok to name them) shell, ultramar & petrocan. Quite a few sites around the net generally concur. I took his advice to the bank almost 2 years now without any issues.
  4. Max
    Tour-cruiser with auto ice maker would sell well over here today. Condor, alignment with match mark on drain housing was set to off. Given time restrictions here is temporary Mguiver Gorilla tape over 1/8" board fix. (did both sides) The tape held well considering sweltering temps. Eventually will mount permanent plate from the inside. Thanks for the inputs.
  5. Max
    hey Tom, we are doing Cape Breton/Cabot trail-Halifax via northern states same timeframe for a few weeks and round up at the rally. Great to connect out east for java and ride at some point.
  6. Max
    ran out of spare louvres for right side, tried straightening warped louvres with hair dryer, lolol, S warp. At $160.00 a pop for replacement vent, removal sounds like the viable option. Ran 2 up 90*f a few hours yesterday afternoon no probs. Upper cylinder cover/deflector didn't shift.
  7. Max
    Probably a one off, but if a heads up helps anyone .. Had a meltdown couple of weeks ago (the 87 VR & me). Noticed the back half plastic fins on the right side-vent were warped. man was I pi@@ed, anyhoo, this was the only symptom of the motor overheating. it was extremely hot combined with city driving must have launched the motor temp. Temp gauge held steady slightly above normal on the green entire trip. (still don't understand why the temp gauge didn't redline) Didn't notice the fan cut in at any time, not to say it didn't, it is functional. There doesn't appear to be engine damage. Long and short of it, found the top of the 2 part front cylinder head cover/heat deflector had come apart and partially slipped forward between the front cylinders and the rad fan. The upper cover is secured to chassis frame by friction fit and connect to each other by a rubber channel and a dozen interlocking male/female rubber prongs. Repositioned covers and end of problem methinks. Checked front cylinder head covers this morning. Sure enough, they're separating slightly at the rubber channel. Reseated again, maybe zip tying them together would be one fix. Hope I'm on the right track here. left fin in image is normal. tough getting decent pics of the cyl covers.
  8. Max
    close to bang on against gps... Pernese, sign me up for a group buy.
  9. Max
    Nuvi 1390T still hangin in there. Under $200 plus you can use mounting hardware provided in box without any mods. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69643
  10. Max
    D4Klutz, concerning radio issues, when I picked up my 87, had little to no reception and right speaker had loud buzz. Removed radio/cassette unit and speakers. Tried to clean and jiggle connectors as reseating radio. Also interchanged speakers to troubleshoot noise problem. Re-installed hardware, noise problem mysteriously cleared and has worked fine since, that was last fall. Sometimes those horseshoes hurt. Reception problem was easier to find, previous owner had stripped antenna mounting threads and wound a bit of white teflon tape around same threads on the inside to tighten connection... just enough to inhibit reception. Maybe something to check. Good luck with restoration.
  11. Max
    Ran M88's on this VR for 10,000 mi since I picked it up a year and half ago... until last Monday. My issues with these tires were loud road noise,whining (not me,the tires) and a harder ride on second rate pavement. I suspect the whining was due to normal tread wear and the hard ride was partially due to the 50-52 lb pressure recommended for two up. Handled great in all conditions and never had issues with missing chunks. Probably could have squeezed another season but decided to replace. Based on comments from forum , decided to go with the E3's. Short term impressions (approx 9 hours highway), this was the right decision for me. Road noise almost non existent, (thank you thank you) although that could change with tread wear. Slightly softer ride, probably due to 10lb less recommended tire pressure.
  12. Max
    Darn it, that's what I thought. Ya bob, had the reservoir out and assembly removed. If I can't find a replacement soon, I'll dismantle it again and scratch away at the base where the two wires enter and maybe, with a lot of luck, be able to remove the reed switch without damage. It looks pressure fitted into the housing as opposed to epoxied. Keep you posted. Followup today: Tried to remove the two conductors to get to the reed switch, no success. There is a plastic ridge about 1/4" into the post that prevents access. Looking for replacement, but it doesn't look good at this point. Attached a couple of pics.
  13. Max
    Need advice to repair or a replacement source for the 'lead switch assembly' in the rear brake reservoir. First time working on a brake issue on this bike so I'll elaborate as best as can with what I've found so far. Inside the reservoir, this assembly has a hollow plastic post with a C clip stopper on the top. The C clip prevents the float from slipping off the post. The float moves freely and stays at the top when fluid is topped up. It appears this float has a magnet attached to the inside circumference of itself that should keep the relay inside the post operated (N/C) for continuity back to the CM. ( I compared this with the front reservoir which works properly. Measured 0 ohm short) With the assembly removed and a meter across the two leads, the float in place and tapping the post with finger a few dozen times, the meter shows intermittent to no continuity. Likely corroded or dirty relay contacts? Is it possible to remove the relay from inside the post without destroying the two wires? I got the rubber/grout collar off but couldn't get the relay loose to pull it out. Could only find this OEM assembly part on-line as discontinued. Everything is reassembled and mechanically works at this point, but the two leads towards the CM are temporarily bridged to keep warning light extinguished. Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance. (what a better way to spend half of the long week-end eh)
  14. Max
    thankfully found last summer through search engines, would have been great to find VRO months prior. The VR was an impulse buy and required lots of tweaking and tlc. Relied primarily on our local dealer up to that point. (which in all fairness has a couple of great old school techs)
  15. Max
    I've been using a Nuvi 1390 on board for about a year without any issues. It cost a couple hundred at the time, but they've come down in price since. I don't think this unit is designed for cycles, but it has survived two rainfalls, adverse temps and vibration. I keep a ziplock nearby for torrentials. Matte finished has good anti glare but can be difficult to see at certain angles during full sun. Re-adjust the screen angle and good to go.
  16. Max
    Ran a 77R100RS for 23 years without experiencing this affliction once, man did I get short changed. Thanks Cafe seat.
×
×
  • Create New...