Max

Just a bit of a follow-up, after a few hundred km and quite a few starts', switch is functioning as should and all electrics are good. 👍

Or maybe not to be disassembled, till necessary :)) With Start, Cancel, Cruise and Engine Stop switch clusters in that small housing, a shot of lube seemed the way to go. One of those `don`t fix what`s working`? Appreciate the heads up!

Forged ahead and gave the Start button gap a small dose of Fluid Film as it is the bottom switch., worked it, now smooth operation, end of binding and sticking. Can actually feel some sort of switch inside housing operate. I will disassemble housing end of season and rectify whatever needs a tweek. .

Agree and well said Ronnie. I`m sure this ol`87 would have hit the boneyard years ago without our gurus. Thanks again all` !

Oh wait there's more ... Thought the trouble was suit cased yesterday. This morning, removed RLU, cleaned what looked like slightly corroded contacts, thin layer dielectric grease and reconnected RLU and heh, lights work. End of problem right? Tried lights and ... no lights. Long story short, poked around switches and found the Start switch intermittently binding when thumb released. That was a lucky find! (thanks for suggesting that direction in earlier replies) Can actually simulate the problem by starting bike and Start switch will stick eventually. So, maybe the start switch and RLU combo? In any case, I can deal with binding switch for now by pulling out switch button when it sticks. Would a micro shot of FluidFilm or WD40 into the housing that the start switch rides on be recommended to loosen binding or just do a rebuild of the entire assembly? Thinking lube might compound problems down the road? Note, found RLU access fairly easy. Removed windshield and upper CPU housing. There are 2 of 4 housing Philips screws that can't be reached with a regular screwdriver. Removed both turn signal housings to access the 2 screws on both sides.

Appreciated all the responses. Once again the brothers came thru! Ok, I thought the bypass recommended would be a quicker test to eliminate the RLU which luck has it appears to be defective. Bypassed with jumpers as suggested in VerntureVet's link below. Upper/lower beams fully functional. Display 'light' indicator on CPU stays on after self check. Below is my rendition of a bypass mess, but it worked. Fortunately I have a spare 87' parts bike to salvage a spare RLU. Thanks again gents! https://www.venturerider.org/forum/topic/56239-reserve-lighting-unit-rsu-bypass-1988-venture-royale/#comment-671700 (side note: The 3 pig tail connection posted by VerntureVet that read green/white was green/red on this 87'. minor detail I thought worth mentioning)

Nice explanation found here pucster. Never knew what RLU was or it's function. Found the 8 pin connector block to RLU. Jumpering might be a quicker test than taking switch apart to isolate trouble at this point? I'll give it a shot. Closer look at schematic shows head lamp indicator, high beam indicator, illumination control lamp and headlight leads (all of which are out) trace back to the RLU. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/topic/61834-location-and-access-to-the-reserve-lighting-unit-or-rlu/#comment-746566

First issue with the 87' in a few years, guess it was a matter of time. Three symptoms are solid, no high and low beam and dash CPU lamp. All other lights and signals are good. There are no other known issues. CPU cycles it's self check normally turning ignition on and no warning indicator after. All other CPU functions are normal. Bike starts and runs fine. Replaced bulb. Fuse ok with 12v measured on both sides of fuse with ignition on. Flipped high/low beam and On/Off switch a few times and reseated whatever connectors accessible behind the headlamp. Tried flexing exposed wiring and connectors. Can't even get the lights to flicker once. Couldn't find a common connection on the schematics. I would appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance.

Still kickin' around. Not much touring past couple of years. Actually thought of selling the trusty ol'87 until I fired it up yesterday, still purrrs. Plastic on the lowers today and off touring once again. (where we left off in 20')

Permanently moved the ol' 87 to a new city today about (136 km) 85 miles in the young lads enclosed trailer. First ride of 2021, sort of , well technically. About a 30 yard run out of the deal. 15 yards in and 15 yards out of the trailer... Patiently waiting 4 more weeks traditionally bring on warmer temps for some serious riding, blow away some winter covid blues.

Good question, wife says most important to get off the steed, stretch and rehydrate every couple of hours. Myself, a full selection of tools and a cell with wifi/data. 60 day rte66 run was longest for us in 2013, 267 hours saddle time. This forum was the best reference to successfully put that trip together.

Quite the sense of humor. Waste of 2300 bux tho.

Ah darn it , to have the 87's live closer by would have been sweet. Quite a generous offer, thanks all the same. Would have been worth a whole lotta coffee..

One more cut this way. Winterized the ol' 87 way too early .. Oct 28th this morning Nov 5th

👍

Good point... The clamp connector ends were almost if not totally touching. I replaced the boot with a spare from another parts bike as the over tightened clamp disfigured the bottom of the rubber. All 4 clamps and boots seated squarely today.

The ol' prime 87 hasn't been too healthy past couple of weeks. Progressive power loss 2 up to the point were it's undriveable. It's not been a good year for the 87' twins. (seems they both had a touch of the virus) Just about ready to put them up on the block. Spending far too many days over the years keeping them healthy. Well, the passion continues for now. So, once over the carbs and found a loose clamp on #1 rubber boot joint. The boot may have slipped off the far side, hard to get a visual in there. Reseated boot and clamp, replaced 4 plugs and fuel filter. (it was time) Full day tour 2 up yesterday and ran like a champ ... :cool:

Well, the torque in ftlb's is stamped on the plug right? + 1/4 turn to spec..

If it comes down to piecing parts, I've used PartShark a few years ago, satisfied with correct parts delivered. I was told to use oem parts, seals on top of that list. Our 87' came with a spare set of generic seals, they were a couple mils thinner than oem's, never did use them. https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/5107f839f870022108d6577f/front-fork

One of our favourite runs, steeped in history. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Champlain

No feathers to ruffle over this way Phill, any suggestions or questions, fireaway, I'll try my best. And there are amazing tech's on this board that will pretty well help with any issues on these old rockets. Finally decent incoming weather over the next couple of weeks. All being equal minus the CV19, probably would have been on our way to Lake Champlain area or lost somewhere down there. Our federal gov't and U.S. just announced border closures at least till June 21st. Guess well settle for a few marathon day trips closer to home.

Fired up the 87' this morning , idled somewhat better again than last week. At the point were I'm going to siphon heavy ratio seafoam/gas, replace with straight gas and run it thru. The idle will hold around 1000 rpm without choke when warm. Carb sync in the works this week.

Hey Poppa Phil, beautiful country over your way. We've enjoyed touring ME a few times over the years crossing at Houlton/Woodstock. I should be the last one here to give you further advice as I'm at the tail end of dealing with my 87' issues that brothers are leading me thru. I have some thoughts but wouldn't chance leading you in the wrong direction. There is a wealth of information in these threads hope you might find helpful. As Patch mentioned, you might get better exposure resolving your idling/running issues by starting a thread on the subject. I'd be interested to hear the outcome. Best of luck. probably the best way to go ..

Well, well, more progress as the stars begin to align. Removed No.2 pilot air jets and pilot screws. The pilot screw 'tips', springs, O rings and washers looked good. Cleaned all ports and surfaces for 3 full cycles with Gunk carb cleaner and chased with compressed air lightly. Of note, carb #2 pilot screw came out with 2 of the tiny washers. I assume the extra stuck on from the assembly line? Drained bowls. Turned pilot screws from 4 to 2.5 turns. Left the additional amount of Seafoam in fuel tank at this point. Today, bike starts normal and rpm's run away with choke on but eventually settle to 1000-1500 rpm after a minute or two. This might be normal at this point? Once the bike is warmed, it idles rough, but idles around 1000 rpm. Throttle response almost what I think is normal. So here we are,,, motor warmed to temp, choke off, idles ok, throttle response not bad, all lights function properly, tires inflated, brakes ok, no warning lights and no error codes. What's a fella to do? Took it around the block a couple of times, maybe 2 km's. Didn't take it out of 1st gear up to 4000 rpm. Smooth as silk thru rpm range. Responsive to deceleration. More than enough punch for a short ride. Still grinning . Thanks for helping make it happen guys. There are a couple of steps remaining on the to do list as suggested in previous posts. Ultimately the Seafoam will be diluted from fuel in the tank. Pilots will be readjusted closer to 2 turns if that plays out and carb sync in the works. In hindsight, as Flyinfool mentioned, proper winterization could have prevented these problems. I'm usually obsessed keeping equipment maintained and in shape. In this case she was purchased 6 years ago as a part bike to keep her sister healthy. Stator cover was off for the last 3 years, so at least 3 years of sitting unwinterized in the garage didn't help. Lesson learned. Will post a couple of pics after the twins get dressed up.

Appreciate the help ! I'll review and follow thru on steps advised as time allows.