dacheedah

funny, don't care who ya are

Don't have a bunkhouse but waterproof the tent and boat cover, and canopy at the beginning of each season. and we have a sunbrella awning on our boat and lift. They recommend spraying 2x with waterproofing Spray on, let dry, spray again let dry then spray on uv protectant let dry. Following this will also protect the thread from the uv rays and extend the life of your canvas.

That is talking about a drive tire, not a trailer tire. http://recstuff.com/radialvsbiasplytrailertires.aspx If you don't pull the trailer for alot of miles, bias ply is less expensive and works fine. I replace my trailer tires because they are old, I have never had one where the tread wore out. I have had a fine looking old tire blow out in the middle of no where and it took all day to get a spare and get back on the road. Lessons learned change those bad boys even if they look fine and always carry a spare. The load capacity of the side wall is very important in a trailer tire.

Your rough opening should be 16'3" wide by 7' 1 1/2 " or 8' 1 1/2 " tall depending on your door.

You are shooting for a 16' wide opening as a 16' door is standard and standard is much less money. Usually you center in the opening or offset away from a service door. The 16' door is nicer than 2 9' doors, my opinion.

I think it was the 2011 audio mid year technical change 2011 technical change m2011 002 , mine has only done it 1x and it's when I left the ipod connected and turned on.

not engineered for the front, I would think handling would be an issue.

Replace the whole thing, important questions are what's above it?? If it's a gable end and nothing above it's easy. If it's on a support wall with nothing above we run a 2x4 on the ceiling the length of the wall about 3' from the opening, use 4x4 jackstuds under each joist 1" longer than the height plumb and brace. I like LVL's for the header x2 so no plywood between 2 11 1/2 x 1 1/2 LVL, glued and nailed at 18' long is strait and strong. or 2 2 x 12 yellow pine 18' with 1/2" ply in the middle run on edge glued and nailed crown up. frame a king stud and two jack studs cut strong on each end to set it on. your rough framing should be 1 1/2" taller and 3" wider than the door. Go tall as you can, If you have 9' walls you can end up with a full 8' door height if you shove the header up to the top plate, 8' is becoming standard because of taller vehicles.

I'm using the 8" bias ply under a HF tag along, throw some dynabeads in them and it pulls awesome.

think about puttin pex in the concrete floor, radiant heat is awesome once up to temperature

you can splice in if it's only a few, put heat shrink over the wire, solder connections, a generous dab of dilithium grease and shrink.

open your coolant when cold, start and look in to see your pump is moving coolant.

Actually I have been rethinking it and would like to know what you find out, my guess is they will move it to a switched source, but If it is covered I might just consider it so it is done.

desoldering braid works well and flow on new solder, a decent iron is a huge help

You can put an antenna in your fairing and be hidden, I know people who have them and they work ok but reception is now what the whip is.

you need the weight off the tire, then check it

make sure it's not from the breather drains, a slightly overfilled motor will vent to airbox and drain down there.

congrats

2nd that, the smart engineers spend a lot of time finding out what works and what fails, now some guy selling tires thinks hes smarter because he sells them. They do agree you will have better traction and evidence shows that your tires will wear much faster. I'll take a pass

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76813 stock are shaped like a dogbone, black and thin in the middle.

The yamaha parts site shows the updated plug is DPR7EA-9, a cold plug may cause carbon fouling. Personally I would have them exchange them.

All the isolators I see are 5 to 4 flat, you could run relays or just wire it to 4 flat. This is a flynfool question. . . http://www.electricalconnection.com/wire-harnesses/hrns-trailer.htm is a 5 to 4 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_taillight-isolator-hopkins_17010149-p hopkins 5 to 4 http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/products/vehicle-wiring-connectors/power-taillight-converters/short_proof_power_converter.html 5 to 4

You don't need to remove the isimple, you do need to unplug or remove your ipod. That is all!!! and yes it will draw it down in in about 4-5 days. I ran my plug out of the bag, and in between the seats for my wife. I put a leather fanny pack on the back of my back rest and the cable sits there. We hook it to our iphones and play pandora from there and use the gps and it works awesome. You can buy a second cord if you want and run it to the front bars, 2 out ports on the isimple. If you have an iphone 5 you can get a 30 pin to lightning adapter and I put heat shrink on it, works awesome.

How do you plug ito the bike's stock audio system?