ACE50

Ya, isn't that an oxymoron?

30K, no way. I turned my ZRX1100 into a touring machine and love it now. 115HP @ 530 lbs., and got it for $1800. Nice concept though.

Bars are powder coated, rest are plasti-dip sprayed as all you have to do is peel it off if you don't want it anymore. Tubes are cut on a CNC laser so they just fit-up like a puzzle and then welded. I go for function first, then looks. I could have put some bent tubes in the design but that would have complicated it even further. I had to lengthen the wires on the front brake switch by 2.5" and rotate the front brake line 180° because of the bend they have at the banjo bolt. A little re-routing and the rest fit-up OK. Even saved the grips from the other bars which I like. Now I'm thinking about adding an adjustable secondary wind deflector on the handlebars to change it up more. I enjoy modding things as much as riding, so even though it's raining now I have something to play with!

Definitely rides different, I feel more 'badass' now. Guess I'm gonna have to get a gnarly tattoo. At least I destroyed some of that UN-safe chrome! before, after and side shot

Then this would apply to 1st gen 's......as they are sooooooooooooooooo OLD!

I've had numerous models of bikes including my RSTD, fixed the throttle hesitation (as long as the carbs were clean) with larger pilot jets or setting the pilot screws out more. If you have them at 4 turns, you need the next size bigger. If you have messed with (opened up) the air box, you'll need bigger pilots to get it right with no hesitation.

Isn't that for growing hair?

Open up your pilot screws, no more than 4 turns. and +1 on cleaning the pilot jets with some BerryMans Chem Tech in the tank.

No, and really don't see the need at that price. Amsoil brand good for 7 yrs or 100K. Some pics they show are like if someone used just plain water.

I've never taken the lower fairings to remove air boxes. Many times. Flex extension for front 10mm. No problem at all.

rebuild kit - $20, easy peazy to rebuild it'll work like butter. hardest part is getting it in and out (that's what she said)

+1 and +1 rebuild it. it's a 99. you'd be surprised how much crap is in it by now as it's the lowest point in the system. and the clutch will feel smoother too.

ya that!

Don't tell your friend!

The problem is, it's that one time a float sticks, then hydrolock and big problems. May never happen, may happen today. Heck, I shutoff fuel off with the stock fuel pump. Just a habit now.

+1!

Yep, I bet a lot of expensive pumps were replaced, when all they needed was some new points!

I think it is 18mm.

There are times where liquid tape works perfect. +1 on never say never!

I'll have to keep that in mind as I did tap for a 1/4-20! Think I'll use these grips from Show Chrome.

Ya, never hard of a 'SnaggleStud' but I did put a tapped hole on the end to mount something if I want to.

Finally got some handlebars made as the stock ones twist your wrist inward too much. Did the ‘close your eyes and put your hands where they are comfortable’ and tried to match that position. Little surprised my first attempt seemed to work pretty well. Made a wood prototype first though. It’s hard to design the right lengths, angles and twist just right, along with not too much height so all the controls and cables still work. They are pretty much maxed out even with some re-routing. Luckily we have a 6 axis tube laser so cutting the final pieces was the easiest part. Seeing as chrome is very expensive I’ll think I’ll just powder coat black. That should match my Midnight.

Guessing it's ok.

I got tired of my loud 15 yr old Craftsman air compressor in the basement. Put on craigslist, gone in 6 hours. Only asked $100. Bought a ultra quiet California Air Tools one. Love it!

no mention of drive shaft oil????