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tz89

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Everything posted by tz89

  1. tz89
    My air suspension showed the dreaded E4 error. After studying Freebirds (thanks!) thread on the topic I tackled it today. Removed the control unit from the bike (5 mins) and disassembled it while I was home for lunch. These eyes are getting old so I really couldn't see solder breaks very well, so later in the afternoon I stopped at Radio Scrap and bought a hands free with magnifying glass, and some finer gauge solder. Tonight after work while I still had light I thought what the heck go for it. Re-soldered 4 pins on one connector and a few on the other. Put it back together and re-installed it. Turned the key and everything worked! Yes I was surprised and pleased with myself, and grateful to this forum for keeping me rolling. And then since it was a very nice evening here in Salem Oregon I took it for a ride. Thank you! tom
  2. tz89
    of this so-called rookie mistake that can happen to anyone. Tell about about using just the front brake on wet or gravel, etc. Thanks
  3. tz89
    I have an 89 that is in perfect condition and now runs perfectly with a little carb cleaning. If the bike you bought is the one on Craigslist recently near Bothell (as I recall) - Congrats! I wanted to jump on that one, too. Here's why I want two great VRs. I have brothers that can fly in to visit and I would like to have a guest bike so we can ride. It is hard to imagine a better ride that is so affordable. So, once I get settled in my new place with garage space I'll be shopping in earnest. t
  4. tz89
    89 28000 t
  5. tz89
    I had my bike into my mechanic today. Basically, he was able to clean the carbs without a complete R&R. He drilled out the emissions plug, took out the mix screws, squirted in carb cleaner, pulled off the bowls and cleaned them, set the mix and sync'd the carbs. All very much like this thread suggests. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58099&highlight=drain+carbs I had him do a compression test while it was there. Like new. New plugs, too. Anyway, I got it back. It doesn't miss and it runs GREAT. I got lucky - the next step would have been full R&R and he was hinting in the $800 range. I wasn't looking forward to attempting it myself in a carport in the rain. This weekend I'll get it out and let er rip. tom
  6. tz89
    On my previous bike I started giving a little twist to open the throttle before hitting start. It was a maxim 750 and with this change to my starting drill it always started. I do the same from habit with my VR but haven't owned it in cold weather yet. I know this is not the recommended drill, and I don't know why this should make such a dramatic improvement to starting reliably. It worked for me. I have been reading with interest the suggestion to replace the 2 brush stock starter with a 4-brush from a vmax. Others can report more on that.
  7. tz89
    Mileage didn't noticeably degrade but I didn't measure. I burned through half a tank on a route that usually takes about half a tank. In some ways I think the bike liked the increased rpm but this thread has been an interesting exploration of how these bikes are supposed to be ridden and perform. But, of course, it's all about me and my bike's performance as I try to figure out what mechanical work may be necessary.
  8. tz89
    Did you find it to be top heavy? Did you try any tight turns like a crappy parking lot would throw at you? t
  9. tz89
    yippee! In the interest of science I took a long ride and tried to keep it 4500 rpm or above. That meant mostly in 3rd from around 55mph to 65+. Since it was for science I think I had it up to 70+ a couple of time. I took the freeway home, so that meant 75+ in 4th or 5th. Luckily I hauled it in before the sheriff's speed trap - they got the car behind me who was not paying attention to the truckers slowing down. No matter whether I'm running on 3 or 4 cylinders these bikes are a surprise. At 65 in 3rd I still had response from rolling on the throttle. Some day I'll have to find out where top end is. I ran it a while over 6000 rpm a few times - it is a happy bike. Now - am I running on 3 or 4. Beats me. When I notice something it sounds like missing one beat in eight when idling at a stop. More frequently it feels like the bike working against itself at speed. I take this to be a fuel mix / carb sync adjustment opportunity. Your (collective) thoughts? thanks tom
  10. tz89
    until I run out of road, which is common around here except for the main highways. All the secondary highways tend to have sudden sharp turns as a farmland conservation effort, but I digress. But I'm not sure I've had it above 4500 rpm much at all. I'll give it a try and explain to any officer I meet that I'm conducting a test for venturerider.org! That should do it!
  11. tz89
    89 VR 27000m I notice myself tending to cruise in 4th, at 55mph, at 3500 rpm. Is that typical? I ask because the bike is new to me and I'm trying to figure out if it is performing as it should. I do 65 in 5th at about the same rpm. When I bought the bike it was missing on one cylinder according to my mechanic. I'm hoping I don't have to pull the carbs - it hadn't been ridden enough for about a year. I'm on my 3rd tank with Seafoam, and I seem to be on all four with an occasional miss though it is hard for me to tell. The pinging in higher gears is gone. Any diagnostic tribal lore appreciated. My brother laughed at me when I told him I was practicing different drum beat patterns so I could recognize the difference between a 4 cylinder that was hitting all four and one missing. Guess it is a bit weird. t
  12. tz89

    Too much oil

    tz89 replied to tz89's topic in Watering Hole

    Could too much oil cause sticky valves or lifters? t
  13. tz89

    Too much oil

    tz89 posted a topic in Watering Hole

    89 VR 27k The PO kept telling me it needed 5 qts at an oil change because he had installed a spin on filter adapter. I noticed that the oil level window was covered with oil. Spec is 5 total, 4 on a change w filter. If he was adding 5 at a change, I guess he was running w 6 in the case. It's as it should be now, but has anyone heard of this happening with any effect of some kind? T
  14. tz89
    Harder than that, but easier anyway. In the pictures, the top of the L bracket has star bit screws. So that didn't seem doable. I don't have that tool. Instead, I took off the 4 acorn nuts at bottom, which sprung loose the bracket to give me some work room. I don't think this would be necessary for the eventual solution, but I had them off before I found my path. Duct tape! I used a bit of duct tape to hold the special nut in place. It's just a piece of steel drilled and tapped to take the screws. Once held in place it was a simple matter to unscrew the hook, and replace it. Now, with that done and a handle bar nut cover in place, I think my bike is physically complete. Thanks Tom http://db.tt/HPfCt92 http://db.tt/JR8CoyJ http://db.tt/TQGTVBi http://db.tt/TIYicex
  15. tz89
    I don't have a place to plug in a tender, so I have to find a way to make something work. It seems like it rains everyday, but it doesn't, though anything I get will have to stand up to regular drenching and exposure. I am pretty far north (45 degrees) but solar is happening everywhere here, so I guess it is working despite the reputation for rain. Thanks for jumping in a reviving the thread. I'll post a picture of the challenge this weekend. Tom
  16. tz89
    89 VR 27k Has anybody had any experience and lessons learned from using a solar battery tender? Any good brands or suppliers of panel or controller? Any thing especially useful for a bike? Creative mounting ideas? I'm in Oregon which is supposed to be suprisingly decent for solar. It looks like I'll have to keep my VR under the carport at my apartment complex this rainy season. Luckily I have it at the south end, with unobstructed placement possible mornings through noonish. If this thread revives, I'll post a picture of the location. I'll need to figure out how to place it so it works, doesn't get stolen too easily, doesn't get the landlord worked up, doesn't create a hazard such as trip wires. I'm thinking of a securable hook or mount on the end of the exposed roof beam, or a panel on a stand somehow secured to or by the weight of the bike. My bike has the connection wired to the battery. In a best case scenario I run a wire into the bike cover and plug it in, and the whole she-bang costs less than $100. Tom
  17. tz89
    Well, I guess that makes sense. Anyway, I will take the bike back in a couple of weeks and let them have a go at the others. Meanwhile, I'll look at/replace the plug wires.
  18. tz89
    It looks to me in the picture I posted that there is more coming loose than the bracket. I'll take another look.
  19. tz89
    Should they get a spot of glue to hold them in? Crazy glue? Something else? I'm going mount a new one in mine soon. T
  20. tz89
    89 VR 27000m Mine has been running rough. After reading some posts I thought maybe a plug wire. Took it to my mechanic who said it was running on 3 cylinders - worst case rebuild the plugged carbs but they would check it over. I got it back. They had drilled out the mix plug on the #3 cylinder that wasn't hitting, re-set the mix and sync, and it is running lots better. They said the bike loved it, idle came up, ran better. Not perfect - I have to schedule a visit to do a compression test and maybe do the other cylinders. He did say the plug wire resistance was a bit high. I gathered from the explanation that the mix screws are sealed at factory until someone works on them, but I'm not sure. Any info explanation appreciated. Question: do I replace the plug wires anyway even though the mechanic didn't do it or recommend it? (which may be a function of me jumping to the front of the line in a busy shop - I was glad to get in and out cheaply with noticeable improvement) T
  21. tz89
    1989 VR 27,000 miles I just bought it and one of the twist hooks holding the little leather bag to the rear travel bag (trunk) is broken. I've got a replacement part. The screws go into the trunk, where the parts diagram shows there to be a "special nut". Pretty special alright because it is covered with metal frame inside the trunk that the hinges are mounted to as well as other pieces. I don't want to (probably won't) disassemble all that. Has anyone tried to unscrew this piece and get it back together? How did you manage the special nut? Is the nut spot welded to the frame or what? Thanks. Even though I just joined and this is my first post I've been trolling here a while. It's great. http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10552988/IMG_0693.JPG
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