tz89

It's called 3M molding tape. It's seriously sticky!

I had that one but found it awkward to use especially on the rear. I could get it on ok but too often the reading had disappeared by the time I could get eyes on it. Now I use an extender hose and the dial on the pump I carry.

Thanks. The trick with this is the screw just spins in place. The head is fine. If the screw on the other side is an indication - the middle part of the threaded shaft is worn but not the tip. Of course this location is tight in a scalloped recesses so I can't get a nipper in there to cut it off without damaging the plastic fairing.

Thank you! So, for some reason my modulator isn't working (fine). But if I take a night journey I'm not half lit. Now getting back into there isn't quite so urgent once I figure out how to get that screw off. Thanks again.

Starting over.... Is it normal on these bulbs for the low beam to stay on when high beam is on? Or only one at time. This part I don't know - how headlight bulbs are supposed to work. If the low is supposed to be on, is it possible it appears not to be in some way? I just took a night ride and I don't appear to be getting low beam coverage when the high is on. If it is supposed to be on, and it's not an optical illusion, then could my modulator be causing the problem? The modulator is designed to modulate the high beam in daylight but it is not doing so since I installed this new bulb. Issue with the new bulb? Issue with the modulator triggered by botched installation? Other? I will uninstall the modulator if I can get to it. One of the trim bezel screws is stripped so I can't get the trim bezel off so I can get to my headlight asembly. I think I will have to drill the head off that screw unless someone has a better idea. Hopefully this is clear now since previous posts were effectively garbled.

Done

Yes I get that. What I'm wondering if some problem is happening that is interfering with lighting the low beam when high beam is on. The modulator is not working in daylight for the high beam.

So - does low beam stay on when high beam is on? Could it be an optical illusion to think that low is off when high beam is on?

Yes I think I will remove it. But I have to get to it. I think one of the bezel/trim ring screw/nut clips is stripped. I've tried prying the screw head as I turn it but nothing. It just spins but won't come out either. Not sure what I'll do. sigh -- it's always something with old bikes.

Yes - same wattage. I just took it into a dark parking structure. It looks like the low beam with wide dispersal switches off when high beam goes on. I guess I really don't know how these are supposed to work.

The PO installed some kind of modulator that worked but I seldom used it. I put in a new PIAA bulb today and it seems the modulator has stopped working. I guess that's fine if it isn't a problem. Is it? Any idea why the stock bulb worked and PIAA not? Thanks!

Done. It could use a sync now but until my brother sends back the digital carb sync I built (see write up) it will wait. Thanks for the help. Best $12 ever.

Thanks. Looks black to me, but as always, it is hard to tell - these things are not very photogenic.

That's just it. I don't have a picture. No one seems to take that shot of their bike that shows the mascot sufficiently.

Thanks Blue

I hear ya. But I'm having a devil of a time getting that old tape off. I've tried Goo Gone, Goof Off, Acetone, and WD40. The last bits are stubborn.

Ok. That's sounding good. Thanks. Anyone with an 89 handy? Or with a contrary opinion?

I have a 100% complete bike and work (and spend!) to keep it that way. Makes me happy to keep it accurate.

I lost my front fender mascot and have a replacement off of an ebay fender. The background color of the V is red, but I think I read somewhere on here that the V background on my 89 maroon is black. Can someone check theirs, please, and advise. I'll paint if I must but want it to be right. Here's a picture of my replacement. I've searched the web for a close up of original stock but apparently no one takes a picture of the nose. Thanks Tom

I should have noticed and paid more attention to the wandering idle speed. A good indicator of an air leak. This morning I replaced the cracked vacuum port caps. I noticed improved cold idle and didn't notice any missing, but I had to get to work so haven't done any real testing. Could it be that simple?

I'm still trying to come up with a plausible theory for an intermittent misfire when cold.

I get an intermittent miss on cold idle with the choke on. Not constant but intermittent. Once the bike warms up it idles fine. Bike runs fine at speed. I put on all new plug wires and caps (one was corroded with high resistance the rest were spec) and hoped it would clear up. Is this more likely a carb, coil or other ignition issue? Thanks

Got er done. The pictures helped. I couldn't get the new wire fed through very easily. On mine there is an inner and an outer tube. What worked was to pull the inner tube out, insert the plug wire, and twist both into the outer tube which worked easily. My fuse block is a rats nest as I've posted before. So for some future project I'll straighten that all out.

Front 2 easy - now on to that back.

One thing I forgot to mention in the original write up is the benefit of the hose configuration. The hose needed to connect to the MAP sensor is larger than the hose that connects to the carb body. When I was researching this project several builders of the oil-in-tube style mentioned that they needed something to provide vacuum damping to smooth out the readings. So when I built this I carefully cut the larger tube into identical short sections and used a good step-down connector to the other hoses. In this way I'm hoping to provide that vacuum damping and smooth out the readings. Seems to work. btw - my brother in WI is using it today. He says it is fun and why do it any other way (than digital not necessarily my contraption).