Jump to content

tz89

Expired Membership
  • Posts

    452
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by tz89

  1. Thanks. My next version is moving fast. Contact me when I post it. I will also try to contact you when it is ready to let you know what, if anything, is available. I may post a Survey Monkey link in a few days to gauge interests - please do respond if I do. I'm not sure whether there is enough interest or how best to configure it. I'm having fun, though.
  2. I got my proto board. The pictures show one blank and one with parts soldered on. Easy to build. Found some issues (like the surface mounted LCD dimmer pot) so I'm going on to the next version, but I thought I would show and tell. This board allows me to test different configurations - that's why it seems to have so many headers. A board for use would only have what it needs.
  3. Is there a spec sheet on the sensor data, so you know how to locatte and interpret everything on the harness? Signal voltages, or digital signal data, etc?
  4. Do you have a data sheet? That helps a lot. If so please post or send it to me. Thanks!
  5. My proto board will arrive this Saturday. I'll test it, then build a device for my Venture. I'll post a bit here and start a new thread. I've got a cool way do to continuous monitoring. I'm not sure why the cost would be warranted though. Please let me know your motivation for continuous monitoring: special application or need, data hungry, conversation piece on group rides, or whatever gets you going. Feel free to PM me. Thanks.
  6. Yep that's the plan. I'll store the value - warning geek alert - in eeprom. Next I'm looking at various timing light inductance clips to see how best to get a clean pulse of 0-5v. This is what I do while my mechanic has my bike held hostage. Thanks.
  7. Thanks! btw are there identifiable groups of bikes that do something different? I'm mostly interested in the Honda Valkyrie with 6 carbs. That's a GL1500 engine I believe. What about the inline 4's from Yamaha or others? Is it mostly just older v-twins? I'm trying to make this thing as useful as I can.
  8. Well I don't feel so bad now. So, anyway, each time I read a spark at the plug how much revolution since the last spark at the plug? Thanks!
  9. I'm working on the software for the next version of my digital carb sync. My proto board will be here next week. I'm trying to figure out a way to add RPM to the display. I remember reading somewhere that the TCI assumes 2 sparks per revolution. The Ignitech TCI software from Dingy says that, too. But I didn't think our Ventures were double sparkers like some that will go nameless. So my question is: How many spark firings will I read off the plug per revolution of the crank? Or if you prefer How many revolutions of the crank per spark at the plug? This probably seems obvious but it's got me perplexed. Too much screen time. Thanks! Tom
  10. The digital carb sync I built from old auto parts works great even when they are way off. Here's that write-up. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73158 By the way I'm getting closer to completing the next version, more compact. I'll post something soon.
  11. It's easy. Here's my old post; I'm working on the next version. Maybe it will be a kit or product soon! http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73158
  12. I have seen some small easy outs advertised. I'm not sure you can get deep enough into the pilot screw recess with them. If you can find one that fits it would be a good option. If you are drilling get a set of left hand bits and the right center punch, start small, go slow.
  13. Yeah that
  14. Looks pretty nice the way it is. Maybe leave it that way, or customize it as you wish.
  15. Thanks. This is very encouraging. I haven't touched it yet - trying to get up for it - but this helps a lot. Now as soon as my brother sends my digital carb sync I'll get after it. Here's the digital carb sync I speak of http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73158
  16. Took it for a ride. I'm not done yet. It'll idle with the choke on a little. Definitely needs a sync. Maybe a mix adj. Then we'll see. Hope to get to all that in the next few days.
  17. Whew. It starts. It runs. Now it needs a sync. That's a relief. Thank you everyone. Best $12 ever.
  18. Fortunately plug wires were last month's project. I had diaphragms already so I couldn't leave well enough alone! Anyway, two of them showed loose when I took off the covers this morning (for the 3rd time). I redid all 4 as best I can do. I've checked marcarl's pics and others, but just to reconfirm, the ridge on the diaphragm fits down into the slot on the carb body - not out towards the cover. I would be embarrassed I have them in backwards. I'm about to put the air box on and fire it up.
  19. Didn't pull the plugs but I'll double check. That would be a nice find. I've got it opened up now, and in a few minutes will start at it. Thanks!
  20. Will do. But I'm having a hard time understanding how a bike that was running well with 2 pin holes can't run at all with new diaphragms. There must be something else to this, imho. Once that is fixed then yes a fresh sync. But I will check the mix screws to see if any had been set to an extreme. I'm planning to reopen the carbs, blow out everything, reseat the diaphragms, check the mix. No real way to check the sync if it won't run, is there? Any other suggestions? Thanks!
  21. Yes I was very careful with the o-ring. That's definitely in place although old.
  22. Sounds like I will have to pull them in the morning to triple check. Some kind of massive vacuum loss makes sense. Thanks. BTW - love your signature slogan!
  23. I used the Sirus OEM style. I used a credit card to push them between. But I don't know how to tell if I got them "right". What do you mean rolling off the mounting point. I'm pretty sure the outside diameter is seated. But what I think you are saying is that if the inside diameter is not set right it will pull the outside loose.
  24. No I haven't resynced yet. I had one pinhole in each of two diaphragms. The other two looked fine. I will sync when my brother sends my gizmo back, but this seems a too dramatic problem to be a sync/idle problem, but I'm no expert. I also put on new port caps - though that should not be a problem. Just in case I swapped them out - nope - couldn't be that easy twice.
  25. I put in a new set of diaphragms. Had to trim the tabs a bit to get them all to seat right. Ended up pulling the covers twice to reseat them. Two pulled loose the first time, one the second. Sprayed Seaform in everything from the top and side. I've had it out for a ride. It runs fine (well a little rough) at speed. At idle it promptly dies. If I give it full choke it will run somewhat. Is there something I could have messed up (well sure) that would starve the idle? Did spraying seafoam into every hole do something I wish I hadn't? Or something else? Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...