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Monsta

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Everything posted by Monsta

  1. Uh...no. If you got 10% better mileage from your average of 50, you'd get 55mpg. (5 = 10% of 50) Ethanol's a crock. I gotta burn more fuel to get somewhere. It defeats the fuel/oil savings argument and the pollution argument. Thank the Corn Grower's Lobby for this mess.
  2. Well that's kinda of a smartass reply, eh? If you actually comprehended my post you'd see that I did. I was talking about weight carrying and how that is the air's funct... aw hell...nevermind. Anyway... the original poster isn't asking about an RSV, didn't mention passengers and luggage. Try to keep up.
  3. That really isn't the best advice especially when you add car/truck tires to the discussion. Case in point: My 05 Excursion has E-rated tires. On the sidewall it says MAX load 3415lbs at 80 psi. There is NO way I'll run 'em at that pressure unless I have that much weight on them. It'll wear out the center part of the tire faster than the outside. Not to mention the crappy ride. Tire pressure is about weight carrying capability. The MAX pressure should be used when that is how much weight the tire will be carrying. It is also the max pressure the tire should have in it cold. Although...that can open a can o' worms in regards to car/trucks tires. But that's a different discussion. Anyway...there actually IS a formula for air pressure based on load that the tire will carry. I'll have to dig it up.
  4. The only thing "printed" on the sidewall is the MAX air pressure and the MAX weight the tire will support (at that air pressure). It is by no means the recommendation for daily, normal use air pressure. Nothing, however, stops you from running that pressure and then making adjusts down from there. What are these "run-flat" tires you're referring to?
  5. Bill, what kind of boots do you wear now? All these guys have great suggestions for products but some won't work on every material. It would help to know what needs to be waterproofed. You ride in sleet and snow? You are . I haven't done that in years...obviously given my surroundings.
  6. Well David, maybe next week the pastor will have a sermon on "Overcoming Obstacles". Then you'll be all set! Is the lift adapter difficult to remove?
  7. I tried it and just wasn't very impressed. I still had to hand wash it. I use Honda's Spray & Polish in between cleanings. Awesome stuff. Buy that instead of S100, IMHO.
  8. So they still make them out of spare parts or something??
  9. I've always wanted to drag a trailer with a bike. Now that I finally have the bike that can do it, I want the trailer! I will use it to get my product from the Airport when it comes it, and carry parts and such when on Sales & Service calls. I can also trailer my son's dirtbike to the local track if I get the trailer I've been eyeing for awhile. Or I can use it get the pig for the Luau, plus all the poi, lomi-lomi, rice etc. etc.
  10. First off, why do you need to bleed them? I'm anal about bleeding brakes so here's MY procedure. Buy a one-man brake bleeder. It is basically a tube with a one-way valve at the end. Remove the caliper. Remove the rear pad. Put the bleeder on. Crack open the bleed screw/bolt/thing. With the hose pointing down in a suitable container, use the C-clamp to push the piston(s) back into the caliper. (This gets out the real old cruddy fluid) Open the Master Cylinder reservoir. Gently pull handle back 7/8th of the way to expel fluid. Stop when either A. the fluid in the MC is too low that you need to refill it or B. when there are no more bubbles coming out of the tube. Remove clamp & reinstall rear brake pad & put caliper(s) back on. Pump brakes to push pistons out and to get the pads back into position. Refill MC if needed. Now that's just me. Other do it differently. One thing I should add. For dual, always bleed the one with the longest line. If the same (like on my RSV) bleed the right side only because you can watch it easier.
  11. When I asked the question awhile ago the answer told to me was "half the motorcycle's weight".
  12. I got mine off eBay for $37 and some change shipped via USPS. Here's my link. Maybe you can visist their eBay store. It is ACE Hardware. Pretty reputable place. Hoppy kit from eBay
  13. Right on! My bike is down for several mods/repairs, this is one. Thanks for the confidence to run use it now.
  14. The part number is 46255. It seems ready made and cheap. I thought about using it so I could get a trailer.
  15. What happened to your old RSV? I take it the insurance company kept it and sold it at auction? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ That was a good write-up and one I feel was probably not only a warning for all of us but healing of sort for you. Not matter how small an accident it can always be a traumatic thing. Talking about it really helps. That said, I've yet to be in an accident (as he knocks furiously on the wooden tabel) but your actions taken afterward to mitigate those accidents, as well as being prepared in the event that it does happen, is always a good thing to keep in the forefront of every motorcyclists mind. These kind of threads do just that. Here's my advice to my son who will being riding on the street soon and the mantra that has kept me intact. (well...I'm a firm beliver in God so actually he gets the credit. ) Stay visible. (Lotsa lights and highly visible clothing! Black leather may be cool but it sure doesn't help you to be seen.) Ride like your ARE invisible. (Probably the most important advice.) Continually SCAN, SCAN, SCAN! Protect your body from impact and road rash. WEAR YOUR GEAR!
  16. Wow, those sound nice! I think I'm gonna have to follow your lead. My Stebel is loud but adding those other two make it sound fantastic! I think I'd like one pointing out back anyway. So...did you polish your forks or are the newer RSV's that shiney?
  17. Love to hear a sound clip! Did you polish your forks? They look shiney!
  18. Might wanna run your hand over the edge of the tire and see if there is cupping. It is usually cupping that causes the sound* (*"roar" as described by you. ). Cupping is a symptom of suspension and possibly bearing problems. Don't be fooled. Using Avons will not cure everything, just like using Sea-Foam won't fix everything...although there certainly are a lot of folks here who think both are true.
  19. GeorgeS, I think that is what Squidley is working on.
  20. Monsta

    Clock?

    Scanning is easy...just wait until you want to program a station in which you already know the station number! The manual is a bit off.
  21. Just to add to the heavy load thing. Just my opinion here. You can put a good "load" on by running the bike in too high a gear. I don't mean lugging it, I mean shifting sooner and using lots of throttle. I don't think you need to load up the bike with lots of weight. What you really want are a lot of heating/cooling cycles to help seat everything. I run "hard" and then let it coast for twice the distance. I also stop a lot and let everything cool down and then do it all over again. I do this for about 200 miles. At 500, I take the RPMs up a bit and again at 1000. By 1000 miles, I've hit the limiter and can safely cruise steady at any RPM. For the real anal (like me) I change the oil at 200 & again at 500 then 1000 and then get to the regular schedule. This what I do for my cars & trucks. But I haven't bought a new motorcycle since 88.
  22. I see a lot of you guys face the horns to the outside. I know it's loud and all but facing it forward really puts the sound where it needs to be. I just made a bracket and twisted it so that it would face forward. I doesn't interfere with my legs or the passenger's legs. Just a thought... I gotta get me a chrome one now!
  23. Well...I've been to Nova Scotia and Niagra Falls. Wonder if I should add some "up North" stuff to my "list".
  24. I can't wait to go to Alaska! That'll be quite a special trip!
  25. Now when you change your front tire put a new stem on with a 90 degree angle....like the rear.
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