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Everything posted by Monsta
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If you check your local Wal-Mart, ACE Hardware or NAPA you may find the Hoppy's connectors needed to do what you need to do. There are basically two different kinds. Both convert the RSV's 5-wire system to a 4-wire system. Hoppy's #46255 completely isolates the trailer's circuits from the bike's circuits and requires a fused wire from the battery.(included) The other (I cannot remember the number) is a straight connector that doesn't separate the lights from the trailer from the lights on the bike.It is easier to install (a bit) but if you have a problem with the trailer lights then you run the risk of having the bike's like go out as well. I used both. The isolator (46255) didn't work on my bike for some reason. Other users here claim that some work and some don't. Because I was eager to get it going I used the direct connect route. Sucked having to cut everything and start all over... I recently (yesterday) replaced my trailer lights with LEDs and feel that will reduce the chances of things going bad as well as reducing the draw on the bike's system. What kind of trailer did you get?
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Humans are stupid when money is involved. I firmly believe that any "global warming" occurring or increased CO2 is the result of deforestation and not cars.
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That's more than here and the price is government regulated! $3.75 last time I checked at Wal-Mart. Do they feed milking cows corn? Maybe the higher price of corn has pushed the price up...
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Admittedly I know nothing about the older Ventures but what would stop a fella from checking to make sure the battery is good and that the charging system is good prior replacing sensors? Is this a known problem for those bikes?
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Not sure how a swivel hitch could prevent or reduce the weave that results from a flat tire on a trailer...
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Dear Yamaha, It is okay to do a little parts bins raiding to update the Venture. Really! Here's some suggestions. Simply take the item or idea and adapt it to the RSV. Some will bolt on, some may need a few tweaks. (you can borrow my hammer) It should actually be quite simple to do it. In fact, give me a week at your factory with all the parts available and I'll put it together for you. Here's my list. (cut-n-pasted from your site) Take from... The Stratoliner: ~ ...Computer-controlled, {twin-bore}, fuel-injection monitors multiple engine parameters to calculate perfect mixture under all conditions; wide-angle 12-hole fuel injectors provide excellent atomization. ~ Exhaust Ultimate Power valve (EXUP) inside the two-into-one exhaust system boosts torque in the 2500-3000-rpm range. ~ 12-spoke wheels evoke a thick spoke look, but carry modern tubeless radial tires; a 130/70-18 front and a fat 190/60-17 rear. ~ Position beams within the main headlight housing provide great visibility. ~ Left-thumb operated high-beam switch, and right-thumb activated accessory driving light switch for great visibility. ~ Bright multi-reflector headlight, LED taillight and amber turn signals behind clear lenses give a custom look. ~ Oxygen sensor and three-way catalyst reduce emissions. ~ Sidebags detach easily for cleaning. The Warrior: ~ Super-rigid 41mm Kayaba inverted telescopic fork in beefy, cast-aluminum triple clamps gives 5.3 inches of travel for exceptional sport-oriented performance. ~ Link-type, preload and rebound adjustable single shock delivers outstanding rear-wheel tracking for precise handling and plush ride quality. ~ Dual 298mm front disc brakes and radial-mount four-piston calipers and a 282mm rear disc combine for incredible, supersport-spec stopping power. ~ Braided stainless clutch and throttle cables. (Do the brakes while you're at it.) The NEW Raider: ~ Wiring harness uses lightweight AVSS wires, and switchgear wiring is routed inside the handlebar for a clean appearance. The FJR1300: ~ Standard equipment Unified Braking System w/ABS: The front brake lever activates six of the eight front braking pistons and one rear piston; the rear brake pedal activates one rear piston and the other two front pistons—for balanced anti-lock braking in all conditions. Most don't really care about new colors. We'd like some new technology from your flagship. Also...it still has a cassette player?!? Now, you've got all these parts. Most could be easily adapted (i.e. head & tail lights!) Thanks for your time. Keep just changing colors on the RSV and you'll not get anymore of mine, though...or my money.
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FWIW, the Corbin is quite a bit higher than the stock backrest. I really like mine...er...well...the wife and kids do. I've never ridden back there.
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- passengers
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Towed a trailer for the first time!
Monsta replied to Monsta's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Okay, I'm almost done! I'm painting right now. Hopefully I'll be done soon and can get the pics up. -
dome lights for luggage
Monsta replied to Howie257's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
One advantage to the stick on light (DOT-it) is that you can remove it and use it as a flashlight. I put Velcro on the back on mine and on the lid so that I can remove it when needed. -
Harbor Freight 40X48 trailer. I've made stake sides (with front and back) with rails for items that don't need to be protected from rain and for bulky stuff. They are removable so that I can pop on the enclosure I made today. It also fits into the stake holes where they are then secured by clevis pins with cotter pins on the back. Anyway....I've made the enclosure out of 1x2 and some 1x3's and 1/4 plywood(ish) stuff. It is reasonable light but in no way water tight. Even with paint I fear that there may be long term water issues. But maybe I'm wrong... Can I get by with primer and exterior grade paint? Is there any type of rubber or something that I can put on the top and front? It's gotta be easy to work with and not too thick. Ideas? I may end up putting diamond plate on the front but don't want to put it up top. I need to keep the weight down. As it is now I figure I've added about 40lbs with this enclosure. The trailer will be garaged when not in use but we get some fairly heavy downpours here in the tropics and I need to make sure the trailer and the stuff inside will hold up to it when I'm on the road with it.
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Towed a trailer for the first time!
Monsta replied to Monsta's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Actually one of the things I'll be pulling with it is my son's Honda CR85. I have 3 configurations I'm doing. One is removable stakes with railings for an open utility. This is to carry the products I sell from the airport to my office. Another is an enclosure that can be removed to do the same & do Costco runs and whatnot but with weather tightness. I can't use a car top carrier as it is short by about 3 inches plus nobody sells them here. (See Skid's post) I'm still contemplating how to do this and keep the weight down. The last will be the chock and rail for my son's dirt bike so I can take him to the races each month. I also plan on towing this with my Mazda 5, too. -
This trailer I have (Harbor Freight 40x48 w/8" wheels) has a zerk fitting in the back of the hub to lube the inside bearing. Do I really need the bearing buddie for the outer bearing? Seems easy enough to remove and repack using a bearing repacker. Is there another advantage to a Bearing Buddies besides convenience? If y'all think I should get them (because they're inexpensive) what size do I get? How I determine the size if nobody here knows off hand what the actual size is? Thanks for your help!
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I put together my little Harbor Freight trailer a few days ago. Got everything working and hooked up and went for a 150 miles ride yesterday to check everything out and to get used to towing. I didn't load it with anything. I'll wait to do that another day. not a whole lot of difference once under way. A little more clutch was needed to start out and braking seemed normal although I kept longer distances between me and others. best part really was all the strange looks I got. Nobody here (that I've seen) tows a trailer with their motorcycle. Passed a group of riders. Thought some of them were gonna break their necks looking back!
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Bag Rails & Fender Rail Instal_Help
Monsta replied to Long Tall's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Wood is also recommended when you drill though the fender support out back. Otherwise you may hit the fender. Put the front part of the bag rail on but do not tighten all the way. I removed the bag's quick disconnect hardware and set it on the supports. I had a "helper" with me (I have 4) that lifted the bag off once I had the rail in the proper place (level). I marked it with a Sharpie and made the hole. Make sure you use a punch!!!!!! Otherwise that drill bit will "walk" all over the place. I don't have the front fender rail so I cannot make any comments about that. -
Air box modification
Monsta replied to 2Whlsrollin's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Not RSV specific but I believe reducing pumping losses can increase fuel efficiency...to a degree. Pumping loss is the energy consumed to actually suck in the air and blow it back out. However, doing it "too" much will cause mixture problems. Inevitably a lean condition. That means you gotta add more gas. More gas = more power but not necessarily more MPG. Those two increases are typically mutually exclusive. Opening up the air-boxes are said to help. (Mine were already opened up so I cannot comment specifically about the RSV.) This will allow more air to be able to pass though but doesn't mean the plenum and the engine can injest it. It typically means that the intake air velocity is reduced at low RPM and increased a bit at higher RPM. This can be detrimental to performance in some cases as well. All motorcycles must meet noise emissions. Most have smallish intake holes to help reduce intake noise. Increasing the size can usually give the engine a bit more power the way the engineers originally intended. Same for exhaust but don't fall into the "backpresure" myth. There is no such thing. What most call backpressure should be called exhaust velocity. And even then they say it in reverse. Opening it up, again, in most cases, will increase the exhaust velocity at higher RPM. And again, it can be detrimental at lower RPM in some applications. Until someone dynos the homebrewed mods and shows me real-world differences and not just sky-high RPM increases I'll just leave well enough alone on my RSV. I can hear the music better that way. I opened up the intake and exhaust on my 03 Suzuki SV1000 by removing the intake snorkel and drilling the cans. Many guys had dynoed before and after and showed a 8hp average increase over the entire rev range with a 10-12 increase way up top. MPG didn't change because I was too busy exploring the new found power and drive-ability. -
Gents... I used my test light to test the wires. I put the alligator clip on the ground and even on the bolts that secure the ball socket (?) on the trailer. I then pricked all the wires and all were good. That told me the ground was good and that the trailer and ball were making good contact. (BTW, the ball socket isn't painted.) However, when testing for ground on the various bolts around the trailer I found they didn't ground. So basically I was left with either taking it all apart and sanding down the parts of the frame that touch or just run separate ground wires from each light up to the ground at the ball socket. I chose the latter.
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I did remove the paint from that spot but it still wasn't enough it seemed. I ended up running a separate ground wire from each taillight up to the common ground. Everything works now. I appeared as if I'd have to remove the paint from every place where the frame rails met. I wasn't about to do that!
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I have the Harbour Freight 40x48 trailer. I put the ground in the spot that they said to (right after the hitch). I still don't have lights. I have correct power all the way to the 4-way from the bike. Still no lights. All I can figure is that th ground is not grounding. Is there a better way to ground?
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How do I post a picture from someone's gallery in a post. I don't see the URL to embed it in the post. The one in the address bar doesn't work for that.
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WOW! That looks great! What size are that tubes that the tranny fluid is in? What do you think that cost you or would cost someone to build themselves? Do you have a parts list?
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Anyone use the HOPPY trailer wiring kit?
Monsta replied to Monsta's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I resurrect my own thread. My Hoppys doesn't seem to work correctly. I got my Harbour Freight trailer in today and assembled it. First thing was to check the lights. No go. I got out my little test light (which I shoulda done weeks ago... ) and found that when I put the alligator clip on the ground pin and touch the pointy part to either blinker pin the test light would glow solid whether or not the blinker was on. Nothing on the brake/running light pin. I know for certain that it wired from the bike correctly. Can I test it that way? Did I test it wrong or is this thing FUBAR?? -
Max Weight question
Monsta replied to neanderthall's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Actually I would say the biggest challenge would be with the tires then the shock itself or rather the seals in it. I would make sure your tires are always at MAX cold pressure and pack as much as you can in a trailer.