stanG

Really all you need is a good soldering iron and some electronics solder. Go for it

Looks good Rod. It might need to be pull forward a bit, but that would require re stapling.

if you have questions call or pm me.

That's cool. Just let me know when you're ready. I have the pattern for the 83-85 and just received an 86 cover that I will be patterning out. Sent from my LG-E970 using Tapatalk 4

I can do it. Send me a PM

Those mirrors are cut to fit into the plastic trim around the edge, which by itself would hold the glass in, but there is a bead of adhesive beneath the glass that makes it nearly impossible to get the glass out without breaking. I tried it and ended up with seven years bad luck.

Hope this helps.

This guy waits 40 years to buy a Harley then dies after riding just three miles. http://gawker.com/man-buys-motorcycle-over-wifes-objections-dies-after-801737298

Thanks for showing me the love here. I guess i had a major brain fart.

Ok that's what I thought since I didn't see any wires going down to them. Maybe I was just hoping I could free up more juice for the lighting. I have purchased the upgraded stator but since mine is still working fine I'm waiting until this winter to replace it.

Can someone show a pic or a diagram as to where these electrical connections are exactly. I can't seem to find them.

I can do as well. Will take longer because I don't yet have a pattern for a second gen.

If its just coming loose and needs to be re-sewn I can do that for you if you send me the cover. If it needs a new cover

Does anybody have a high-res scan of the Yamaha Venture magazine ads from 1983 that they are willing to share?

It will cost you a couple more bucks but if you want to go with a high quality versatile system check out the X-Grip mounts from RAM. I have have been using one of these for my phone and hand held GPS. http://www.rammount.com/Products/XGriptradeMounts/tabid/4687/Default.aspx

Sorry. :-)

Thanks guys. This will give me something to ponder for a while. I think the external sensor is a great idea but I think the extra wiring could have the potential for greater chance of failure in the future. I think I will do a little research on reed switches and see what I can find out.

I know there is a bypass procedure for eliminating the warning light and indicator when replacing the standard tailight bulbs with LED's, but has anybody thought about modifying the display circuit so that you could use LED's and still have the bulb out indicator. My guess is that stock system monitors the current draw from the bulb. Since the LED's draw less current can the sensor be modified to function with the lower current draw?

Sounds like you need to re-solder the connections on the circuit board inside the dash panel.

For the sum of $90 sent directly to Snaggletooth I will custom sew a seat cover sewn to match the original 1st gen Mk1 design. I use heavy duty 42oz marine vinyl -40F cold crack resistance available in black only. Show me proof of your payment to Snaggletooth and I will fire up the Consew promptly.

I would have to agree with Marcarl. Repair the existing trans with the new parts. When I did mine I replaced the clips and washer, the 2/5 shift fork and undercut the gears. I had my brother undercut the gears with some precision grinding equipment but there is good info on this forum on how to do this on a drill press. I have had zero problems and can hammer second gear as hard as I want now. While I had it opened up I also replaced any seals and orings along the way. About $175 into parts and some serious labor to remove the motor and open it up but I did it all myself in the off season.

Dim headlight and white indicator... Most definately you need to resolder the connections on the dash electronics.

2-5" Please stanG

Definitely in for a couple.

I normally use a small pry bar inserted between the latch and the bracket. Push the latch back while giving the bags a rap with the palm of your hand to move them forward. Make sure the key is in the proper position to allow the latch to move.