stanG

Appears to be just into the white rubber not black. To be on the safe side I will be replacing the tire. Thanks all for the input. "Have fun out there" stanG

On both sides of the rear tire. In the same general vicinity. "Have fun out there" stanG

No to to the wheel chock and the tire is a Dunlop 491. "Have fun out there" stanG

I was giving the bike the super-clean for a bike show tomorrow and noticed this tire damage. I have no idea what may have caused this and it is roughly on the same spot on each side of the tire. I don't recall any Cowpuc-like adventure riding that would have caused it. Almost looks like it may have been intentional. Any ideas or have any of you seen this before. [ATTACH]85366[/ATTACH][ATTACH]85367[/ATTACH][ATTACH]85368[/ATTACH]

Bought a first gen that didn't run and was searching the net for info on how to fix it. Whala... There it was. After the trial period I joined up. Been a member ever since. "Have fun out there" stanG

Another option as a last resort would be to pull the cover off on the other side, remove the shaft and then pull it out.

I'm thinking a couple of mechanics picks with short right angle bend slipped in next to the shaft then turned to get a grip from behind. Not enough clearance for a regular seal puller.

Dragonslayer... I'd say riding the bike into the tornado would likely be the LAST thing on your bucket list 99% of the time! "Have fun out there" stanG

I got tired of the high beam indicator blinding me so I came up with this quick fix. A piece of plastic cut to the size of the blue lens with a small hole drilled in the center. I affixed it with a little silicone so if I need to remove it there is no residue. Much better and I can see it perfectly fine in the daylight too. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/10/qazyquny.jpg

Awesome! I want one one of those drones right now! "Have fun out there" stanG

Most likely the bearing pin.

Yeah, I was thinking about using the spot for HI and the flood for LOW with the angles set appropriately then using a relay circuit to power both bulbs when on HI beam. I have the floods as driving lights so I am getting good side illumination already. I've got lots of time to think about it as I am likely reserving this as winter project.

Just note on these units. I saw the earlier post and purchased the 2800ln unit. I have to admit that the quality of the bulb and ballast is good and for the most part plug and play. You do need to do a little modification to the plastic panel behind the reflector housing to get clearance for the heatsink and fan on the bulb and you do have to make the reed switch modifications and reserve lighting unit modifications to get the thing working on a first gen. Without the reserve lighting unit being unplugged the bulb will stay on high beam. That could the problem that you are describing. Bottom line, after all this I didn't find the bulb to be as bright as the Silverstar Ultra that I have been using. So since I always drive to work in the dark, I removed the LED and reinstalled the Silverstar. So if somebody wants one of these bulbs for about 40 bucks let me know. On a side note, I did install the Rigid Dually Floods as driving lights mounted on the crash bars and they are excellent and super bright. I am giving serious consideration to using a combination of a pair of these, one spot, one flood, mounted in the headlight location and configured for HI/LOW beams. Any comments?

Always wear mine. Reminds me of a question about helmets when I was in high school... Question: How much should you spend on a helmet? Answer: Depends on how much you value your head. That one has stuck with me.

Just note on these units. I saw the earlier post and purchased the 2800ln unit. I have to admit that the quality of the bulb and ballast is good and for the most part plug and play. You do need to do a little modification to the plastic panel behind the reflector housing to get clearance for the heatsink and fan on the bulb and you do have to make the reed switch modifications and reserve lighting unit modifications to get the thing working on a first gen. Without the reserve lighting unit being unplugged the bulb will stay on high beam. That could the problem that you are describing. Bottom line, after all this I didn't find the bulb to be as bright as the Silverstar Ultra that I have been using. So since I always drive to work in the dark, I removed the LED and reinstalled the Silverstar. So if somebody wants one of these bulbs for about 40 bucks let me know. On a side note, I did install the Rigid Dually Floods as driving lights mounted on the crash bars and they are excellent and super bright. I am giving serious consideration to using a combination of a pair of these, one spot, one flood, mounted in the headlight location and configured for HI/LOW beams. Any comments?

Update... I used a siphon and got it to the proper level. The wife wouldn't let me use her turkey baster so I had to improvise.

So.... I just did an oil change on my 83 1st gen and had a brain fart and put in about a 1/3 of quart too much oil.. and yes it's coming out the blowby by the kickstand. Should I let it go let it take care of itself or remove the excess? Any suggetions?

I have been using the RAM X Grip for a couple years with no issues. There is just a little play in the rotation after you snap your device into it. I would say less than 10 degrees but while riding I've not seen it move even when riding rough roads.

About 7,500 in 2013. Up from 5,000 in 2012. 6-7 month riding season for me here in MI

Agree 100%. I always try to get stuff from members when I need it. Bought stuff from skydoc with excellent service and product just as an example. Plus the purchase come with the knowledge and support of this site.

Checked the frame ... No cracks... Probably the way the light was hitting it in the photo.

No, I used a 50mm bolt and the shoulder was about right to pass through the outer portion and the center tab then thread into the inner portion. I actually ran out of threads and had to use the washer that you see on the outside to snug it up. I then cut off the excess on the bolt. Currently there is an 8.8 hardness bolt in there as I wasn't able to find a 10.9 on short notice but I plan on replacing it when I find one. As for the frame cracks, thanks for the heads up. I will check it out.

Thanks for all the advice. Strangely, I had not seen anything on this in the forum before. I spent some time in the shop fabricating a new stand out of 3/4" pipe and steel. I took the occasion to do the bolt upgrade and added a larger foot as well. I opted to cut some m12x1.25 threads in the back side of the stand and use a single locking nut. Sent from my LG-E970 using Tapatalk 4

Good advise guys but the bolt is intact. It snapped off on the metal tab that the bolt goes through.

Need some help. I was getting ready to head out to work this morning and my sidestand just snapped sending the bike into my body but I caught it before it hit the floor. Looks like it snapped off on the tabs where the bolt passes thru. Anybody have a spare laying around from a parts bike that they are willing to part with?