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farm1810

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Everything posted by farm1810

  1. farm1810
    Here is what I have learned thus far. The sheet metal that supports the chrome surround by the gas cap is different. There are no mounting points for this trim. The petcock assembly is the same and mounting is the same. The fuel sender for the gauge is the same part number too. I ordered the Venture center strip / console that goes from forward of the gas cap, down to the seat. It is riveted to the gas tank in two holes that are on either side of the rear bolt / mount. I don't know about a frame difference that you guys mention, so I may run aground with this project. I'll post when / if I get it mounted with the details / issues. Thanks. R.
  2. farm1810
    Wife and I are breaking in a Russell on our RSTD. So far so good. Much improved over stock for both of us, but pricey.
  3. farm1810
    I just purchased a Venture tank for my RSTD to get the extra fuel capacity for trips. Is there anything special I need to know to swap it? In the pics, it looks like a direct swap. What do I use for a sealer for the petcock? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. R.
  4. farm1810
    I removed the teardrop passing light / turn signals off of my RSTD. The LED's did not seem to attract the other drivers attention well enough and I had multiple situations of people cutting in front of me. Scary. So I got the Yamaha passing lights and put those on. I had already installed a relay, seperate small fuse panel, etc. so the passing lights are working. I must have accidently touched a wire to ground and blew the headlight fuse. I haven't replaced that yet, but the reason I blew the fuse was I was pecking around for the wire for the parking lights in the front. I have the turn signal part of the bulb wired and they work. I thought the black / white wire with the dual connection in the headlight bucket was the parking light wire. But I got nothing out of it. Is there a fuse panel other than the one behind the left side cover? Do I have the wrong wire?
  5. farm1810
    Yes, the saddle bag lid covers are on order right now!
  6. farm1810
    I bought and after market, Harley tour pack and the back rest offered by the manufacturer. The back rest has brackets and the lid needed to be drilled for the back rest brackets. Okay, have that. Between the back rest bracket and the bracket that bolts to the lid, they provided a rubber insulator. This turns out to be a rubber bushing of about 1 " in length with the head of a bolt embedded in each end, giving threads sticking out each end of the rubber bushing. The problem is, I haven't even finished my mounting bracket for the bike and the bolts are popping out of the rubber already. What does everyone use? I considered a piece of all thread in each of the three locations, with jam nuts on each side of the bracket. What have others done for this?
  7. farm1810
    My wife would like somewhere to put her feet higher than her footboards on our RSTD. She has put her feet on top of the saddle bags, which caused me to suck the uphostery on the seat right up my @#$%&!!! when I realized she did it. Anyone mount a set of pegs up a little higher and did the fold out of the way? Thanks. R.
  8. farm1810
    I just received my Russell Day Long seat. My wife and I have a trip to North Carolina planned in July - we live in Delaware. Nanci over at Ace High Leathers is making a set of saddle bag lid covers for me. Once all is done I'll post a picture. I had a trunk project started but didn't finish until I saved the money for the seat. Trunk has a back rest so wanted to be able to align with Mama's needs for comfort. Anyone have experience with Ace High? Thus far they have been very cooperative trying to coordinate with Russell to get a color / texture match.
  9. farm1810
    I bought a used Venture mounting bracket. I have cut all of the extra brackets off of it. The tourpack has half round channels where I assume it mounted to the HD bracket. I have ordered some half round steel stock and I am going to weld this onto the top of the Venture bracket. I am going to tape off the chrome on the risers from the mounting points, then paint the entire bracket that will be under the trunk - black, so my welding mounts won't rust. It will be a week or so before this is complete. Will try to post a pick of the bracket and the mounted trunk once I am done. Likely won't be painted by the time of post.
  10. farm1810
    I am adding a HD aftermarket trunk to my Tour Deluxe and want to paint it to match, or at least look like a match at 50 mph. There are rattle can kits for both colors, blue and black, on the internet that I think I will try. I could do the easy thing and paint the lid blue and the base black. Or, tape off and look to catch a similar angle to the saddle bags. There is a stripe on the bags where the blue and the black meet. Is this a decal? Or is this painted? If some sort of decal / tape, is this available?
  11. farm1810
    I am not a machinist, but we used a tool similar to this to check the flatness on front pump / covers on the old hydramatics - transmissions. As you guys are saying, place the knife edge on the flat side of the pump cover and look for light. We had a small lapping table and small granite table and we would use a very fine grit lapping compound moving the cover in figure 8's - versus pushing back to front which will leave the leading edges short with high spot in the middle. Yes, I know there are more modern and effective methods available today, but you said "old school" and this was the old school practice in automotive garages in the day when one fixed the old parts instead of just bolting on new assemblies.
  12. farm1810
    I know this is an old thread, but.... I weigh about 240 and my wife is 145. If I am not running 25psi in the rear, the suspension will bottom out. More like a hard stop when I hit a dip in the road. Not a pot hole. Also, my bike will do an up and down about twice when faced with slow ripples in the road, just like a car with bad shocks in the rear. Today it did it half way through a sweeping right hand turn and it kind of scared me. Wife was on the back. I have made some changes on my 2nd Gen and I love it, but I guess next change will be the rear suspension.
  13. farm1810
    My wife and I went for a relatively long ride yesterday. I did the swap (with freebird's excellent tech article in hand) a couple of weeks ago, but this was the longest ride 2 up since I did the swap. For me, the bike is now just totally enjoyable. When I first got it (I have a second gen), folks on this site helped me to understand that I was lugging the engine. So I learned to keep it revved up, not worry about getting out of third gear until about 40 mph and to accept that I didn't use 5th unless I was on the turnpike and about 55 to 60 mph. Now, my riding is back to being intuitive. The r's are natually a little bit higher, the engine just sounds right for the wheel speed. I know that sounds a little strange to some, but prior to the change the gearing felt more like something I would want to use out on the salt lake making a run for a high speed record. I have not gone 100 mph since making the change on my bike, but 80 mph feels like the bike is as happy as can be. I too worked through John Furbur. Great service, fast shipping, great product, and rapid refund once he received my old core.
  14. farm1810
    I have a 2008 RSTD and I do understand the rear wheel lock up situation. In an emergency stop situation it is very easy to do. I went out on a less traveled, smoothly paved road with a relatively long straight section and practiced rapid stops from about 40 mph. Of course, it is easy to be thoughtful and methodical in braking when one isn't panicked. Fortunately I have not had a panic stop situation since I have been practicing, but I think I will tend to be better equipped to handle it with the repetition of practice. I will be interested to see if anyone has done a caliper swap. I have read that some have adjusted the foot brake pedal to be lower, closer to the floorboard making it more difficult to tromp down and cause a lock up. I have not tried this as yet.
  15. farm1810
    Anyone have any experience with this windshield bag on a RSTD? With the notch on the bottom I am wondering if it will help it to clear the speedometer. http://www.tbags.com/detail.aspx?ID=112
  16. farm1810
    Mike G, the only thing I would add to Freebird's reply is about the clutch whine. The slightly higher rpms puts me out of the "whine zone" more naturally, or at least I think so. I don't have a tachometer, but my clutch whine is worst when just chugging around town. I got by it before by running in a lower gear, first or maybe second, while around town. This worked just fine and my whine was never really bad anyway, just annoying. From a performance standpoint, I don't really have a desire (other than just doing it once or twice for kicks) to run on the interstate at greater than 80 mph anyway, so having the thrill of accelleration at lower speeds is well worth it. I'm not really a first gear burn out kind of guy, but a thrilling second, third, fourth up to about 65 mph makes my old (I'm 55) blood rush a bit. Also, even with the wife on the back, no more slipping the clutch to get it rolling. Hope this is helpful. P.S. Mine has a slight chirp (Jetson's car sound) at low speed too, but I just sing "Here's George Jetson, his boy Elroy..." as I hear it and it makes me laugh. Call it a product feature!
  17. farm1810
    I recently swapped the rear gears to the VMax set and WOW what a great improvement in accelleration. What would be the next investment that you guys would recommend to take it to the next level of performance?
  18. farm1810
    Went for a test ride today. FANTASTIC!! The bike was already reasonably fast, considering what it is. But it wasn't a bike that would give you that rush from accelleration. Now...it still isn't a drag racer by any means, but it does give me that rush. And the Flanders Bars? It's like a different bike. Not only is it more comfortable, but low speed control is much improved. I guess just because I am in a more upright, controlled position. Overall two great mods that are well worth the investment. The VMax gears / housing were $300 exchange (must leave a $300 core charge, which is returned when the old gear set is sent back) - plus some shipping. The Flanders bars were $129 with free shipping. Ruffy, anything else I can say to help you with your agony, just let me know!
  19. farm1810
    I purchased housing and all from John Fulmer?, the guy up in Allentown, Pa who advertises on this site. The old for the speedometer pick up was already there. I haven't ridden the bike yet. Doing the swap to the Flanders bars at the same time. Should be done this morning.
  20. farm1810
    I got the rear housing / gears from a VMax and swapped this out with mine on the 2008 RSTD. I don't have the rear wheel back on as yet as I wanted to take the time to check the drive pins before re-installing. My questions are; on the forum someone mentions two special tools required to change the drive housing. One, I assume, is to hold the coupling up inside of the fork tube to make it easier to get the drive shaft spline into it. The other is for some sort of bearing retainer? I didn't have either tool. One thing I did do was to start the driveshaft into the coupler, then push it into the housing aligning the spring, etc. Then I slid the entire assembly together and started the acorn nuts. Anything I may have missed on the rear housing end by doing this?
  21. farm1810
    I had read to use GL4 gear lube in the rear gear case. I have several old Jeeps and GL5 is not recommended as it will cause excessive wear in the brass synchronizers in the transmission and other brass parts. Would there be a similar issue with a brass part / washer / bushing in the gear case?
  22. farm1810
    Does anyone make an aftermarket clutch basket that does a little better than this factory I basket? I see lots of clutch kits with springs, friction plates, etc.
  23. farm1810
    Can anyone comment on the comfort of the Russell seat versus the Ultimate seat?
  24. farm1810
    I am responding to an older post, I realize. I recently found myself over using the rear brake in an emergency and a part of it was my habit of using the throttle in unison with the clutch / transmission to gain smooth downshifting. I realized after my emergency this past weekend that I need to practice a bit with this bike just as this post suggests. On another similar topic, how many folks here shift / downshift while NOT using the clutch? Is this harmful?
  25. farm1810
    Wife and I wanted to add a trunk / tour pack for longer trips, to our Tour Deluxe. I bought a trunk bracket from a wrecked late model Venture. First thing I found was that the posts for the latch for the detachable passenger back rest are in the location where two mounting bolts need to be for the Venture bracket. So, I drilled them out from the back, then tapped holes for bolts. The weld from the pins left me with enough metal to get about 4 threads in each hole. I mounted the bracket...then.... I had purchased an aftermarket Harley tour pack as it had the largest capacity of any of the trunks I saw on the internet. It arrived, very nice with passenger back rest. Now my problem. The bottom of the tour pack is formed to fit a different bracket. It isn't just flat. Of course, these inverse ribs don't align with the Venture bracket. Has anyone dealt with this issue?
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