farm1810

The ME 880 is 26.06 dia and 6.22 wide. Compared to the Dunlop 404 that is 25.6 and 5.9. Both being 150/90-15. This according to specs on the various tire websites. The Avon AM26 Roadrider 160/80-15 is 25.1 dia and 6.4 wide. Does anyone know if there is space for a 6.4" wide tire?

I know I am responding to an older post, but the Metzler 190 would be a full 1" wider than stock. Will that really fit without rubbing?

Additional thoughts / tire sizes diameter and width in inches Michelin Commander 2 - 140/90-15 - 24.63 / 6.14 150/90-15 - 26.34 / 6.5 Dunlop 404 140/90-15 - 24.73 / 5.51 150/90-15 - 25.6 / 5.9 Metzler ME880 160/80-15 - 25.07 / 6.3 This comes from several websites selling tires that post these specs. Does anyone know the widest rear tire that will reasonable fit onto the back of an 08 RSTD?

I have a 2008 RSTD. I thought the speedometer received a signal from a pick up / gear in the rear drive housing. I don't think this has a front wheel cable.

First I would like to say that my small investment in support of this site has enhanced my motorcycle experience (and Barb's- wife) more than my wildest expectations. So thank you to all. A year or so ago I replaced my back tire with a Dunlop 404. We were in the worst rain / wind storm I have ever driven through on the Blue Ridge Parkway and the tire(s) performed perfectly. However, pulling a trailer (300# loaded) the rear tire has last just over 6K miles and has some left, but would not pass my state inspection. I have put a Stratoliner front wheel / tire on the front with some success on the slow speed maneuverability. I changed the rear shock to a Werks heavy duty unit and that was GREAT! I have new progressive springs for the forks that I have no installed yet to help with the front end dive when braking with a passenger and trailer. I installed the V-Max rear and that was the single best improvement I have made. Most of our riding is on 35 - 55 mph roads and the additional acceleration is great. And, I really see no big problem with 70 mph on the highways - I have no interest in running faster for very long anyway (I am 58 yo, so have lost a bit of that characteristic). I have done the leveling links and one up this is the final mod for low speed handling. With only me; I could park Baby Huey in the eye of a needle. Okay, I am bragging and can't support it. The point is, front wheel / tire + rear links = WOW! However, I have a 29" inseam. Riding alone, no problem I lean one way and I have it. With a 200 lb Mama, not always a fun experience. Add to Mama a 300 lb trailer, "Walk like a man, talk like man.." You get the idea. It's a challenge at times. So, I need a rear tire. I have the usual 150/90-15. If I went to the 140/90-15 depending on the make of the tire I may get back 1/4 - 3/8" of height (lower). But, it will impact speedometer accuracy (already about 6 - 7 % off) and I will have overall gear ratio even lower. Anyone running this combination and even if not, have any thoughts? How about rear tire choice? Anyone familiar with this tire choice? IRC WF920 140/90-15 M/C 70H, REAR It's a nice looking tire. Other thoughts?

My wife and I bought a Russell Day Long about 2 years ago. This is the first truly comfortable motorcycle seat I have every owned. When we first got it I was not happy. I had trouble reaching the ground flat footed (30" in-seam) and I still had some discomfort after about an hour. I called them and they asked me to use it for about 300 miles then make a judgement. They would happily make a change after that. They were right. Once it "broke in" it is as good as it gets. So is the passenger seat for my wife. Once the "wings" softened up a bit I no longer had the issue of needed to slide forward a bit if I wanted to be flat footed. On our next trip we plan to do about 6 hours per day of a 6 day trip. We have done this before with no aches, pains, or stiffness. Well, maybe a little stiffness but we are both in our late 50's so I think it is us more than the seat.

I found that with the stock handlebars and stock seat my butt could take somwhere between 60 - 90 minutes before my butt was numb and my back hurt. Changing to the Flanders bars that were up and back a bit fixed my back problem. I took the plunge and purchased a Russell Day Long for me and my bride / passenger. WOW! It's not cheap but when the all it "day long" they are right. I have owned motorcycles for 40 years and this is the first one that I can ride for an entire tank of gas without my back, butt, or hips screaming at me. R.

I changed the shock to the Hagen unit and did the leveling links. Never thought about the oil level issue until you mentioned it. Went out and checked and I saw no real difference. Now, admittedly. I check it with the bike on the Sears lift using the adapter so maybe it is the same level. This is the also the easiest way to check the air in the back tire. I have found that my bike uses NO oil between oil changes anyway. Extremely reliable unit.

Is there a rear wheel options i.e. larger diameter, end with same diameter tire but shorter sidewall profile?

I installed a Works shock today along with the leveling links that raise the bike just a bit. Overall, I took my time, re-lubed all the bushings, cleaned things nicely and it took about 1 1/2 hours. Not a major deal at all with the Craftsman lift & adapter. I have only taken it for a short ride. The bike does have a lighter feel to it. Still feels stable at speed (only went up to about 60 mph and not on the highway with large trucks yet). I did some figure 8's in the parking lot and that is where I feel the difference most. I have a 30" inseam so I do lean over just a bit more when I come to a stop in order to be flat footed. I have a Russell day long seat that has been broken in for over a year. With the new height, the "wings" are definitely going to get some additional folding. If I remember to pull myself forward toward the tank on stop, I am closer to flat footed. Those with this seat may understand what I mean. I had the shock set up for the weight of my wife and I together and they said to try it with the factory setting before considering adjustment. It felt fine to me today with rider only, although it may have been a little stiffer. The original shock is a bit spongy I think. Mine was not leaking. If someone is interested in a non-leaking original from a 2007 RSTD just give me a PM.

I have a 17" Clearview with the recurve and it works great. I am 5'11", but only a 30" in seam, so I have a long back but relatively short legs. I too measured my original at 19.5". At 17" the wind is about an inch above my head if I put my hand up in the air stream and on level ground I have looking over the top of the windshield. Also, I ordered the optional vent. My advice there is not to bother. With it open and running 50 mph I can feel the wind when my hand is within 4" of the vent. I notice no difference whatsoever in comfort on hot days. I thought I would experiment by getting it, but I won't bother next time. R.

I went ahead and ordered the Hagen shock. 3 - 4 weeks delivery since I wanted the HD version. While I was at it, I ordered their progressive front fork springs and their recommended oil. Anyone have any experience with their front spring set up? I am hoping to improve the nose dive on rapid braking. Thanks. R.

Thanks very much. I just e-mailed them from the link you provided. The price you mentioni is very similar to the Ohlins price, so I would rather go with one that others have had good luck with. Thanks again. R.

I want to replace the rear shock on my RSTD over the winter. It isn't leaking, but when there is any kind of dip in the road it starts to bounce around in the back. This is totally controllable (although unnerving when it is mid-way through a turn), but I need to do something before it gets worse. It also bottoms out at times even with 40 psi in the air. Okay, no lard a_ _ remarks! ha. Has anyone used the Ohlins shock I see on the Cruiser Customizing website? The price looks pretty good (relatively).

I am 5' 11". I was told that the stock RSTD shield measures 19.5". I do not know from where. I did not like always looking through the windshield, so I measured and marked a point 50' in front of the bike on level surface then sat the the bike in as close to normal posture as I could, then marked where on the windshield I was siting through. This was 2" below the top. On the Clearview site there is a 17.5" windshield. I splurged for the vent and for added curve at the top that is supposed to kick the air above the passengers head. The vent offers virtually no difference that I can notice and has the downside of not allowing a set of pouches attached, unless one covers the vent. Of course, it does nothing so I guess that doesn't matter. According to my wife, she can feel no difference in wind from this shield and the original from a wind perspective. Is it his reverse curl? I'm not sure as I have no way to compare. If I was to do it again, I would get the 17.5" shield with reverse curl, but not the vent. Hope this is helpful. R.

Thanks so much. I followed this instruction and it worked out GREAT! I used copper wire & black cable ties. It just took my time and got great results. The cracks were on the bottom of the trunk, so no repaint necessary. They were just in front of the front mounting pads on both sides. I believe my fix is stronger now than it was originally, now with the wire reinforcement. Thanks again. R.

I managed to score a Venture trunk for my RSTD recently. It is the same blue / black paint and the paint isn't bad. Has the rack, etc. I noticed that it is cracked slightly on both sides just in front of the front mounting locations. Is this a common weak point? I am going to reinforce this area prior to installing - I have a matching Venture mount. Anyone experience cracks in this same location? Besides repairing the crack, did you do something to spread the load more broadly across the mount? Thanks.

I just want to add that being a part of this site has really made my latest venture (no pun intended) into motorcycling the best yet. I sold my last bike, an HD, in 1994 as I was buying a small farm and needed the money. I was so busy with house projects for the next years that I did not have a motorcycle. About 2 1/2 years ago I realized I was finally ramping down on my house & farm projects and wanted a bike again. I bought a low mileage RSTD and wife and I have loved it. Buying used and for a reasonable price left me with some spare cash to do some upgrades. Over the last 2 years I have done many things suggested by all of you. Barb and I want to thank you, members of this site. I am sure I have asked things that have been answered before and broken other rules of etiquette, but everyone has been great. As I just turned 57 2 weeks ago, does that make me eligible for the old farts club?

Do I use the R6 brake pads? Are my 08 RSTD pads compatible?

I was looking at some older posts and front brake caliper upgrades. One said that the R6 calipers are a big improvement in stopping power, no need to upgrade the master cylinder. These are available in the used market for a reasonable price. Does anyone know for sure that these are a direct bolt on? If not, what would be a wise choice bolt on upgrade?

I have read that one cannot change fork springs on a Venture without removing the forks. Is the same true of my RSTD? How do I easily change the fork oil?

I have the CD 100 LED taillight / parking light. It is GREAT! I have changed the rear turn signals to the dual filament units off of the front. So I now have rear turn signals and parking lights together. I purchased a GW trunk and Venture bracket for a member here already painted the color of the RSTD. I hooked up the lights in the trunk. This was really good. But, my TS / PL in the rear looked like they had a bad ground or something, at least in the daylight. So, knowing that I had the resistance of the turn signal bulb in the trunk plus the front turn signal, I switched to the CD dual intensity LED for the rear TS / PL. WOW! Boy do I have some rear lights now! And not lots of additional amps with the trunk standard bulbs. I also put all LED's in the trailer that I recently built, but that is another story. R.

I have a 2008 Tour Deluxe. My wife and I were near Ashville, NC and made a wrong turn. GPS showed us a different way to get back to the main road, we followed it. Yikes! The paved road turned into a gravel road, loose gravel, not tar and chip. We rode about 7 miles at about 10 miles per hour as anytime I started to lean a bit the front tire start to slide out. So slow speed and steering from the vertical. We made out fine and the road eventually opened up again onto pavement. When I was young I rode enduros / dirt bikes for many years. These bikes are not off road bikes.

I have the Custom Dynamics 100 LED brake / parking light and love it. I am seeking to change the rear turn signals to LED. I have already switched them to the RSTD front light that now gives me parking light and turn signal in the housing. The bulb has 3 anchoring tits spaced equally around the circumference of the base. On the custom dynamics website the have a diagram of a dual purpose bulb with 3, but they are not spaced equally in the drawing. I have found a Yamaha part number for a replacement bulb. Custom dynamics calls this base a BAZ15D-3. Is this the right base? Also, I have red lenses on the back, do I use red LED's?

Well, I have my title and tags, but... I took the new bill of sale and correction document back to the motor vehicle office. This second manager was not on the authorized list either. Just by coincidence, I happened to talk with the same DMV clerk that I had with my second attempt. She was very friendly, saying "hey, third time is a charm" - but then her expression changed. I said, "Don't tell me." She says, "This guy isn't authorized either." I am not going to post on the internet what happened next, but lets say she recognized what was going on and that I was not attempting to pull a fast one and that I really had purchased this trailer. So I leave and when I get back to my workplace I call the Harbor Freight store and let them know that I still don't have an authorized signature. The manager I am speaking with tells me that it isn't HFS issue, this is an issue between me and DMV. I say, but DMV didn't just make up names. They must have received them from your company. With that she said, this is not our problem. Good bye. And she hung up. If I was to do this over again I would drill out the rivets holding the data plate on the frame, go to DMV and claim I had just made the trailer, they would have stamped a number on it and I would have been good to go. Oh well. I must say, the people working at the motor vehicle department really were helpful in the end. I would not have resolved this without their help. But a happy ending eventually.