M61A1MECH

Hey Puc, here is one for you, https://worldwideauctioneers.com/listings/scottsdale21/1967-chevrolet-corvette-427-435-coupe/

Well he did grow into those ears, it has all gone pear shaped.

John, PM sent with tracking info.

John, Thanks, PayPal received, I will have to order the male connector, I will let you know when it is on the way and provide tracking. Steve K

Oh my, yes still praying done here in Florida.

If connecting to a 5 pin trailer, you do not need a converter, the converter is only require d when going from 5 wires to 4 wires. I always recommend using an isolator, to protect the bike's wiring should the trailer develop a problem like a short circuit. Yes my 5 pin trailer system is plug and play. Under the seat on the left hand side just forward of the battery you should find a white 6 pin connector with 5 wires (blue, yellow, black, green and brown) that connector set connects the main harness to the fender harness. My harness connects between those OEM connectors and branches out to run the isolator. The only other connections you have to make to the bike is to connect the fused power wire to the battery positive and the ground wire to the battery negative. Here a photo of the 5 in system showing all the connections on a standard package. I provide instructions and a wiring diagram. The only change I have made to the system since that picture was taken , is to not use solder splices, instead I found it better to put two wires in the crimp contact right at the connector.

The harness going from the converter to the trailer connector is about 4-1/2 feet long and is normally secured to the fender stays or routed under the seats and fender, it would be an inconvenience to remove it when ever you are not pulling a trailer. If you want I could for an additional $15.00 put a waterproof connector about 12" back from the trailer connector so you could unplug that 12" section and remove the trailer connector. I would provide a dummy plug that would plug into the disconnected end on the bike to protect it from dirt and water. The male 5 pin does not come as part of the standard harness package. I can provide one for an additional $10.00, I would need to know how long yo want the wires to be. My Pal Pal information is in the link I sent you in my previous response, but here it is again, Payments can be made via PayPal at stevemarilyn@hotmail.com. Be sure to send me your mailing address and a list of what parts you want me to supply. You started with asking about the run tail brake light bar, so I am not sure if you still want that as well or just the trailer harness with the option I listed above. If you both the light bar and trailer harness let me know, because you may save a bit on money on shipping if I package them together. Let me know what all you want and where I will be sending it, and I will give you a quote on the total. Steve K

Prayers up from Florida.

Yes I have those for sale here on the forum see this post. I can customize it if your trailer uses a different style connector.

Prayers up from Florida, expecting a full and speedy recovery.

Replied to email.

Yes I can do both at the same time in the same harness. I always recommend that folks use an isolator for their trailer hook up. With an isolator if something goes wrong on the trailer all you lose are the trailer lights not all the lights on the bike. Here is a link to my 4 pin trailer set up, I could use the trailer circuit to power the light bar. Not sure what the total cost would be , I would need to quote it for you if you want to go that way.

I like the new format, just finished adding my sig pic back, not to pain full, I like the option to add a cover photo to the header of my profile page.

I have seen this issue many time over on GL1800riders.com. The sensor it self is not hard to get to, it is in behind the front timing cover, it is the connector at the end of the harness that is hard to get to. It is down in the abyss below the shelter, as I recall getting to it is similar to getting to the air filter, but maybe a bit worse, airbag models I am told are the worst one to deal with. If mine goes bad I am going to add a waterproof connector in to the harness behind the timing cover. probably something like these because of the small form factor. http://www.cycleterminal.com/jst-jwpf.html I will also say folks have had their bike's throw that code and it was just a bad battery, it does not take much to spin the GL motor over, but if the battery voltage dips to low when the starter is spinning the electronics for the ignition and fuel injectors will not work and the bike will not start. Have the battery load tested as the first step in troubleshooting.

Yes I am familiar with them, I find some of the more bizarre patterns to be distracting I prefer a strobe then solid. My Goldwing may be annoying to some, as I have two different patterns of 3 fast then three slow before going solid on all my brake lights. I have changed the OEM bulbs out for LEDs with built in modulators and my light bar in the spoiler and a custom one under the trunk are on a SC-100 modulator that does 3 and 3 and solid, but at different frequency that the tail lights, so I have quite a light show. Having been rear ended once on a bike because the person did not see my brake light come on, I am not taking any chances.

Maybe I missed it, but I went back to a reply I made to a post I made earlier today, and did not see a way to edit that reply Is there a method to do this? What did I miss? OK I get the 5 minute rule, other forums are the same, edit function works, Thanks Freebird.

I do not believe the SVTC has actual CANBUS, when I was designing my trailer harness set up I talked with the local Yamaha dealer's service manager about that and we looked at the wiring diagrams together and found no evidence of an actual CANBUS controller or computer. There may be something in the ECU that senses voltage anomalies and sends some sort of alert, but that is not really CANBUS. Where Electrical Connections and I plug into the rear lighting for the trigger source for the trailer isolator is a 12 volt line that goes direct to the bulb, so you should be able to interrupt the brake circuit there for that LSC-100 modulator and not cause a problem. That modulator is $5.00 if it does not work, take it out and put the wiring back as it was. Someone will buy the modulator off you.

One additional question. What year model Tour Deluxe do you have, Yamaha marketed a Tour DeLuxe model with the 1996 to 2001 standard Royal Stars and then again as a stripped down version of the Venture from 2005 to 2010. Oh also you noted in one of your first posts that you had red turn signals, those are not stock, all Royal Star line models came out of the factory with amber turn signals.

I actually have two options on the wiring for you, The one Ilinked to above was for the 1999 to 2013 Venture and 1996 to 2001 Royal Star , here is the one for the Tour Deluxe, 2005 to 2010, it is $16.00 delivered in the lower 48. The other option is to use some bullet connector adapters I make that will plug in to the brake and tail light wires at the triangle housing behind the license plate. A pair ( one for brake lights and one for tail lights) would be $10.00 delivered in the lower 48. With either solution you would need to run some wires from the bike to you new lights. I did a similar set up on my 2007 Venture, but I mounted the dual intensity LEDs between the saddle bag rails and the fender. Here is a link to where I bought mine, they make two different mounting bezels, one for flat and one for side, this link shows the side mount. https://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-Tecniq-EON-Red-Clear-LED-SMALL-Stop-Tail-Light-Motorcycle-ATV-Black-Ver-Case/293139609955?hash=item44407b7963:g:kYIAAOxyUrZSpjrA The Royal Star Tour Deluxe does not use CanBus. it is straight 12 volts DC direct wired.

OK easy enough to do, but are you asking how to do it or what type lights to buy? I make a breakout harness that installs under the seat so you can easily tap into the rear lighting without having to cut into the bike's wiring, see my add below. Maybe this helps.

Right side tin near the passenger floor board.

Good to see us back on line, everyone was having withdrawal symptoms.

If the carbs bolt up to the motor, maybe they bought and older set of carbs rather than rebuild the ones on the bike. Mike Eycamp may know he is heavy into carb rebuilding and swapping.

There was a change to the Royal Star line in 1999 when they introduced the Venture. The carbs on the Venture are different than the carbs on the regular Royal Stars. The 1996 to 2000 NON Venture Royal Stars all had 28mm carbs. The 1999 to 2013 Ventures had 32mm carbs. Just be sure you are looking at the correct parts fiche.

Go to someplace like Home Depot and get something like this, they may even have smaller diameter ducts for RVs and things. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-4-in-x-8-ft-Flexible-Aluminum-Dryer-Vent-Duct-BTD48HD/203626496