M61A1MECH

OK I was looking at their Run/Turn/Brake controllers that require cutting wires. The clusters are better , but the clusters are not truly plug and play, as you have to drill or enlarge a hole, route wires and use positaps or some other inline tap to gain access to the running and or brake light circuits. Positaps are way better to use than those guillotine snap on pieces if crap that to many folks use. I will say the clusters look to be very slick, I guess I never paid much attention to them when I saw them before.

I ran Dunlop E-3s on my Venture, generally got between 18,000 and 20,000 miles out of a set. Stay away from Metzlers, they tend to chunk out big pieces of tread from time to time, very unnerving when you look at your tire with a 6 x 2 inch section of tread missing and the cords showing in the hole, I was not pleased, fortunately it was already time to change them when that happened.

Post a link to that listing on their website, if you do not mind, I just checked again and I am still not seeing it, but have missed a lot of stuff in the past. Thanks

Ok I will try to offer as much info as I can, but I will tell you right up front, I owned a bike almost identical to what you purchased, and I am very biased to the idea that the bike is best left as a two up cruiser. What seats will fit this bike (rider seat)? Not sure why you want to change, the stock seat is actually made by Corbin and I have done 600 mile days on mine when I had it, but Corbin and Mustang did make seats for them back in the day. Anything like fender stays/eyebrows for these bikes (will be removing bags and all brackets/mounts for a solo setup) Fender stays and eye brows from a Venture or any other model Royal Star should fit, the fender is the same, but if you are removing the brackets that the bags fasten to, you will need to fabricate something to hang the mufflers on, the are to heavy to just hang out in the breeze. Will 1600 ROADSTAR FRONT BRAKE PADS Work On THE FRONT Of This bike? No idea, but if the part numbers match they will fit. Will grips and end weights from an 02 RSV work on this bike? not sure, maybe The plastic manifold covers are cracked and I read this is only cosmetic and not an issue....is this true and how much to replace them? yes true the cracks are cosmetic, but you can treat them with plastic dip or liquid electrical tape to cover the cracks. I have the stock 4-2 exhaust and I want more low rumble...am I better off to modify the stock pipes or get Harley slip ons (and if so what would give me the lowest tone/rumble of the stock Harley take off exhaust)? The best sound you will get out of that bike is from a set of full BUBS or BUBS slip ons, if you can find them. I'm gonna do all the basic maintenance on it at home (just hit 40k riding home). Oil and filter, final drive fluid, spark plugs, flush coolant, flush brake and clutch lines, check pads, set idle to 850 (lower end of factory spec), tighten all bolts, set front and rear shock pressure (3-5 front 20-30 rear), air filter, fuel filter. Gonna run cheap oil and filter with 1 qt MMO in oil and a bottle of MMO in gas tank for 150 miles then switch to Mobil 1 synthetic 4t and K&N filter. Runs fine now but I like to start from scratch. Anything else I should replace/look at? I know the valves are due to be checked/adjusted and I MAY have a local yamaha mechanic do that. No air on the rear shock, that did not show up on the Royal Line until the 99 Venture models and is only present on the Venture and later Tour Deluxe. I am not sure MMO is a good idea in the crank case, I never tried it, but would be leery with a wet clutch. I would use Seafoam in the gas tank. I will tell you from personal experience do not over shock the fuel system with anything that will loosen any old varnish. I over treated my 98 when I got a tank of bad gas and ended up needing a carb overhaul due to stuck needles. When I had my 98, all I wanted to do was to convert all the black leather to tan, I thought that would look really good, but to each his own, good luck with the conversion.

OK so that bike does not actually fall into the classification of first or second gen as we refer to them, as those connotations apply only to Ventures. The Royal Star line was started in 1996 after Yamaha dropped the Gen I Venture series a few years before. Those Ventures were first gens and came in the flavors of MKI and MKII. in 1999 Yamaha revived the Venture name with the Royal Star Venture, that is the start of the 2nd Gen, it used the same power plant as the Royal Stars but had some improvements in horsepower, bigger carbs, comfort and smoothness. Yamaha stopped making the standard Royal Stars like yours in 2001 and had only the Venture left in the Royal Star line. In 2005 they re-introduced a Tour Deluxe model, which was a stripped down version of the Venture, same power plant, but no fairing, no trunk and no audio. The Tour Deluxe was dropped in 2010 and the Venture sadly was dropped in 2013. So you have a first generation Royal Star. I doubt there will ever be a second generation Royal Star or third generation Venture, as sad as that is. Because I left Royal Star line after owning 2 for 16 years because Yamaha refused to upgrade and up date the Venture, I am now riding a Goldwing and probably will do until I quit riding, unless Yamaha comes up with something REALLY SPECIAL. I hope Mama Yamaha is reading this.

On my Venture I kept the stock grips but covered them with Grip Puppies, they are avaialae here , http://www.shop.shinhopples.com/category.sc;jsessionid=4439AA5E3532473EDCC2469D8B1C3B45.m1plqscsfapp04?categoryId=103, I use them on the Goldwing also, much better feel and no expensive.

Unless they have added it very recently, the one I have seen for Yamaha bikes is not plug and play, it still requires that you cut wires on the bike's harness to interrupt the circuit and route it through their controller. For what it is worth, I really dislike the idea of cutting any wire on a factory wire harness, most times you can install a short jumper some where in the circuit between a pair of connectors, That way you can cut into the new jumper rather than the original harness and effectively get the same result, that can be easily removed later should it need to be removed or relocated to a new bike. I am happy to work with anyone that needs to build a "jumper" harness for what ever reason, I have found several sources for electrical connectors found on most bikes. One exception I did find recently is , there is no male connector available that will take the place of the factory rectifier and plug into the cable that connects to the rectifier. Bongobob had a great idea a few weeks ago, but I was not able to help him on that one.

Good looking bike, congrats, as much as I liked my Venture, I really like my Goldwing.

Go to Custom Dynamics and look for Run, turn brake adapters, or follow this link, http://www.customdynamics.com/tailconversion_kit.htm. Also look at their LED taillight boards for the Yamaha products. If you go this way please consider using one of my breakout "T" harnesses found in the classified section so you do not have to cut any wires on your bike.

The original Royal Stars that were produced as Royal Stars and not as Ventures, from 1996 to 2001 have the same motor as the Ventures produced from 1999 to 2013 with the exceptions listed below 28 mm carbs , Venture has 32 mm carbs 76 HP, Venture has 97 Not counter balancer, Venture has a counter balancer, No cruise control, no audio system, no fairing That is what come to mind right away

Good looking ride, boss. Does it need a light bar under the Trunk or a trailer connector set up?

Try Googling "fix thread title":stickpoke: I think if you use the advanced edit option you can fix it, nit sure I have tried.

Sounds like the start button is maybe shorted or stuck in the closed position. Here is a trick I heard over on the Goldwing forum, have not had a need to try it yet, hope I remember it when I need it. When ever taking apart an assembly like the switches or control pod, that have springs and little parts that may get away, disassemble it in side a zip lock bag. If bits go flying, they will not get out of the bag. I am sure it sounds easier that it is, but if you have ever been on your hands and knees crawling around looking for one of those Jesus clips, you can appreciate what I am suggesting. Oh the reason they called Jesus clips, normally that is the first thing out of your mouth when one goes flying across the room, and he is likely to be the one that knows where the darn thing went. Good luck with the new bike keep us posted.

I should have prefaced my post with, "When I was young and stupid" , agreed neither action proposed in my post were the actions of a grown adult, I am much better now, never litter and never drink and drive. Not meant to offend anyone, Eck's post reminded me of something that happened a long time ago, still was not the right thing to do.

I did that with a beer bottle one day , the beer bottle won.

Check the radiator cap or sealing surface on the seat in the radiator. You can have the cap pressure tested to see if it is holding the correct pressure. The coolant in liquid cooled motors does not boil because it is under pressure , that raises the boiling point, if the cooling system is not staying at the correct pressure when hot, the fluid will boil. If the pressure in the system exceeds the pressure the cap can hold the hot fluid will escape to the overflow bottle, that fluid is likely to still be hot enough to boil when it gets to the bottle.

Ok so if you put a 100 ohm resister in to the circuit feeding from the tail light power to the light bar that will dim them some and if you also run the brake light power circuit to the light bar (no resister) when you apply the brakes the LEDs will illuminate at full brightness. You may want to install diodes on each circuit so the two circuits do not cross talk to each other. (I would) I have started doing that on the light bars I sell so all of the LEDs are on as tail lights and also as brake lights.

Yes that is the correct plug, they are found on the parts diagram for the crankcase, the drawing I am looking at it is item 9 on the 2011 diagram, I suspect the diagrams for all years would be similar.

Rather than using that mickey mouse set up in the picture to connect the wires, I would use one of these. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?137711-Aux-lighting-harness-for-2nd-gen-ventureBut that is just me.

Basically yes, for the ground what I would do is to take both of the ground wires from the modulator and put them together on the tag wire I have coming off the ground circuit, that way you provide a ground for the modulator with out interrupting the ground circuit to the other lights. For the brake circuit, yes determine which connector on the bike is coming from the main harness and which is going out to the fender harness. Put the input side of the modulator to the main harness side and the out put side of the modulator to the fender harness side. If I still had my Venture I could tell you which is which, but it is long gone and I was not smart enough to write that info down before I sold it. Send me a PM here on the forum or email me at stevemarilyn@Hotmail dot com and we can work out the details. Have everything I need on hand and could ship on Monday.

Jay, easiest place is under the seat, the brake circuit is yellow, the ground is black. This may sound a little self serving, but I never recommend cutting into the bike's original harness. It is always best you build or buy a jumper that has the correct connectors on each end and plug it in and cut / splice or tap into the jumper. That way the bike's integrity stays intact and if the unit goes bad or you want to remove it for any reason , like take it to a new bike you can do it easy. Now for the self serving part; I make and sell jumpers that will do exactly what I suggested above. Typically my jumpers are used to provide a convenient location to splice in for adding lights, but the owner could also cut the jumper wires as needed and splice in the device he has , or can build one special with the brake and ground wires pre cut ready to splice into. Here is link to my basic jumper http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=4&title=aux-lighting-harness-for-2nd-gen-venture&cat=18 I also have some other products you may be interested in to increase the rear lighting, just check out the member vendor section of the classifieds and look for my screen name.

My concern is that if the OP can hear the fan while riding, then maybe the temp switch that controls the fan is stuck on and the fan is running all the time. That would cause premature failure of the bearings, as the fan should seldom operate on these bikes. Even here in Florida in the summer, I had to be in very slow heavy stop and go type traffic before mine would come on. I agree with going to Pinwall or any other reputable salvage yard for the part, but do ensure the temp switch is not malfunctioning also. If it were me I would order the part from Pinwall with delivery as fast as you need it, pull the fan from your bike while waiting and determine if the bearings can be removed and replaced, if they can, I would find a bear supplier and have them replace the bearings. Bearings are generally a set finite size, folks like Yamaha pick them off the self and design the applications around the available sizes, so replacements should be available, if they are sealed bearings, squirting oil or WD40 on them is unlikely to have any effect. Oops , just saw the post where it was fixed.

That is one amazing airplane, I worked on them for about 7 years between the Air Force and McDonnel Douglas. Watched them do Viking take offs many times. A Viking Take off is where the pilot pulls the aircraft up vertical as soon as it lifts off the runway. When the F-15 beat the soviets in the time to climb record, the aircraft went down the runway at full afterburner lifted off and then went vertical and broke the sound barrier while in vertical flight. I believe it could probably fly with both wings gone, the engines are that powerful.

I got tired of trying to keep my white walls clean , so I went with black side wall Dunlop E3s, good tire and great mileage.

Here try this link it may help, http://www.airbagcenter.com/faq.aspx