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Everything posted by M61A1MECH
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Coolant plugs price
M61A1MECH replied to alwrmcusn's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Two places I checked they are $4.84 each, here is a link to one of the places. http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-90338-11152-00.html -
Not much high ground here in Florida, we are abut 3.5 miles as the crow flies from the Atlantic, but lots of stuff between there and us to buffet the winds down. The storm at last check the eye was going to be about 10 to 20 miles off shore, so should be interesting. I have all the loose stuff stowed but have not decided yet if I am going to put the shutters on the windows or not. There is time in the morning.
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In Mike's case his GL trike is an 08, that model was the same up to 2010, then in 2011 Honda moved the GL production line back to Japan, and retooled. There was not GL in 2011 and in 2012 the current version was released, seats from models prior to 2012 will not fit 2012 and up models. I am not sure when Honda started the F6B, but I am fairly certain it was after 2012. Plus as Mike noted they are different and the GL passenger seat uses the trunk as part of the support for the passenger back rest.
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Mike, A later post on the GL forum thread on the F6B with 750 miles, the owner confesses that he and his wife are not riding enough to justify keeping the bike.
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Mike, PM sent
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The trick to keeping Meltzer tires healthy is to keep them inflated at the pressures recommended by Metzler, do not use the Yamaha factory specs that are for the stock Bridgestone tires.
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I wonder if that works for IPhones as well?
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You fell asleep on the keyboard?
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I stepped away from my laptop for a few minutes to attend to something and came back to find one of the cats sleeping on the keyboard not the first time she has done it and you never know what havoc she will cause until you try to use the computer again, normally just something simple like a few hundred key strokes entered into the test box on a search function. Well today the keyboard appeared to be totally frozen, nothing worked, not the keyboard on the laptop itself nor my USB keyboard I have plugged in. Found after several minutes that it required you to hold the keys down for 3 to 4 seconds before they would respond. I type slow enough as it is, I do not need any additional hindrances. I activated the virtual keyboard, amazing that it worked just fine. I was able to get some help from GOOGLE. Somehow she turned on the filters for sticky keys, found a small stopwatch looking icon that when double clicked it opened up a control box so I could turn the filters off. Now it is all working just fine, good news for the cat. So lesson for the day; put the lid on the lap top down when not attended, so the cat has a warm place to sleep and so she cannot goof anything up. As with everything else in the house it is her's after all, just ask her, and I am just part of staff here to take of her. Next time I may do dogs instead of cats, at least they treat you like family.
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I know a great Mexican place, not the cheapest, but great food and service, one in Ormond and one in Port Orange. Tom keep us reminded, so we can plan our schedules, right now my weekends are taken up with sitting open houses as I try an build a client base, hopefully that will ease up in a few weeks, so I can get in some riding.
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Take the black shroud that goes around the ignition on the top front of the fuel tank off. Pull the rubber tube off the tank vent tube and blow some compressed air down the rubber tube, put a plastic bag or cup on the end of the tube to catch what ever comes out, probably some sort of insect nest or egg pack.
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Jay, Each type of connector can have different means of locking the contact pin or socket in the housings. As noted above, generally there is a small wing(s) or tab on the contact itself that needs to be depressed to allow it to slip past the locking the shoulder it locks on. Sometimes you have to push the wire in from the back a little to get the locking tab off of the shoulder. Some connector bodies (plastic part) have the locking tabs in them and there is a recess in the pin or socket that the plastic tab drops into, those you just push the tab up out of the way and pull the contact out. This applies to most Japanese connectors like Hitachi that is common to Yamaha. If you do in fact have a MOLEX connector they take a very specific type of tool that is a hollow tube style to depress both wings and also have a push rod or spring loaded pusher that pushes the contact out. Visit this site http://www.cycleterminal.com/index.html to get a look at the various tools you can buy, but for simple Hitachi style connectors a very small bladed jewelers screw driver or sturdy piece of small wire with a screwdriver shape filed on the end should work to depress the tabs. Avoid any sort of abrasive like sand paper , use contact cleaner and a lint free cloth, I general use connector grease that you can get from auto parts stores, they sell it for putting on connectors for boat trailers and for putting in the light sockets on boat trailers where the lights get submerged when the boat is launched or retrieved at the ramp. If you are not sure what you have , send me some photos and I will try to ID them for you and recommend a suitable tool.
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Do not know of a loop that includes St. Augustine and Ormond. There is a loop in Ormond that is shown on the site Dion listed, just be careful cops are all over it and the speed limits are strictly enforced. Best way to get to St. Augustine from Ormond is up A1A and back south on US1. There are a few good roads around, most of them are west around Deland and Deleon Springs. Depending on what is going on with me at the time, maybe we can hook up and I can show you around a bit.
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Cannot tell you the price is good or not, but I will say make sure you get a good quality hitch set up, like Carbon One makes and use a wiring set up that has an isolator to protect the bike's wiring , something like these depending on how the trailer is wired. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=459&title=5-wire-plug-n-play-trailer-harness&cat=18 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=458&title=4-wire-plug-n-play-trailer-harness&cat=18 I pull a Bushtec and I am always looking behind me to make sure it is still there, they pull almost effortlessly. If you get it, remember it is back there when you are crossing traffic lanes and pulling into gas stations, do not want it hanging out in traffic or hitting the bollards around the gas pumps.
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Steve K , "M61A1MECH" and Marilyn "Momma Bear" made it home to Florida just about 1PM Saturday.
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Fuel gauge segments flashing are probably a faulty code, I know when the sending unit goes bad it flashes a code using the gauge segments. Watch them to see if there is a pattern, like a few flashes then pause and then 2 or 3 more flashes, those codes are in the repair manual in the troubleshooting section.
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Going to the VR international in WVA , leaving on the 10th back around 18th. I got more of out of the rocket blowing up at the cape that from the storm, when that big Roman candle went off it shook the whole house, and I about 35 miles north of the Cape.
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trying to go through the steps
M61A1MECH replied to rbig1's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
So maybe I missed it, but what is the symptoms of the issue you are having? When does the noise occur? If it is under hard acceleration or when a load is put on in higher gears, it could be pre-detonation of the fuel. That could be caused by a few things. 1) Summer gas sometimes has a slightly lower octane rating than winter gas, I have had per-ignition knocking on my 07 in the heat of the summer months, normally a tank of mid grade gas will clear it up. 2) Could be carbon build up in the cylinders or on the heads, a small bit of red hot glowing carbon can ignite the fuel mixture before the spark plug fires, that will cause pre-detonation, normally a god dose of Seafoam or other top end cleaner will loosen the carbon and flush it out the exhaust. Just a few thoughts, changing the timing would best be done using an after market ignition system like he DYNA2K that allows you program the timing as you like, but I do not think they will allow you to retard the timing, normally they are programed to advance the timing. -
I was just looking at the reviews of the E4s over on the Goldwing forum, everyone likes them with one exception, one guy is saying he is getting a vibration or wobble in tight twisties from the front with the E4 that was not there with other tires. Currently he is investigating things like air pressure and head bearings, so the jury is still out on whether it is the tire or not. Other than that one issue everyone likes them and says they are great in the rain. I am thinking of trying them next time around, but with the little time I have for riding anymore that could be a ways off.
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That is a distinct possibility I had not considered, the last time I had it apart, I took a big wad of cat fur out of the cooling fins and screen, it runs a lot cooler.
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it running windows 7, upgraded from Vista , running a 32 bit system. I went to the Acer web site and downloaded the Vista driver, there is no option for a Windows 7 driver for this unit on the Acer site. Tried to run the setup from he driver file, and it reports no Bluetooth device installed. That is one reason why I think the installed hardware has just died of old age. Just like the web cam that is installed the computer no longer sees it, but it there. If you do find something I willing to give it try.
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OK immediate problem solved, Bluetooth still does not work, but I was able to find that a driver was missing to connect my laptop to the printer via wireless router in the house. So I can now print remotely from my laptop in the kitchen, which was the biggest issue I was having. I think the Bluetooth hardware in my laptop died, the computer does not even list it as an installed device, there is a slider switch on the front of the laptop for turning the Bluetooth on and off, it did work at one time and the light would go on and off with the switch, now sliding the switch has no effect at all. Could not find any hidden key stokes in the manual for turning the Bluetooth on from the key board. May have to open it up and see if there is a broken lead wire or something obvious. It is an old ACER aspire 5100 laptop, probably fortunate that it is still working after all these years. Thanks for the suggestions, I going to keep poking at it , never know the dead horse could wake up if you poke it enough.
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My tired old lap top had Bluetooth connectivity on it at one time, but now it does not work, recently I have had need of Bluetooth connection and miss it a lot. Is there a good plug in adapter I can get to replace the built in Bluetooth that quit working? I am hoping for something that plugs into a USB port. I saw some on line, but not sure how well they work. Thanks
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I did something similar, dropped an almost new and fairly nice point and shoot camera, broke the screen. Found a video on Youtube, watched it, saved it for later and ordered an inexpensive one off Ebay, had to wait a few weeks for it to arrive from China, but it was the correct part, followed the video and it was all good in about 20 minutes. Also been having trouble with an intermittent shift key on my lap top, could not for the life of me figure out what I needed to take apart to get the keyboard out, found a Youtube video on the same model and I had it out in 10 minutes, problem is it is all sealed, so no fixing it, lucky there are two shift keys on the keyboard. Good luck, let us know how it works out.
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Strange Noise:
M61A1MECH replied to Rob Swallows's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I had one of those heat guards on top of the valve covers, you know the ones you burn your leg on if you ride with shorts, break one time, the break was so clean you could not see it unless you pulled on it and opened the gap. The broken ends would rub together at certain speeds and RPMs and just drive me crazy with a high pitch squeal. Could be something like that, fractured or just loose enough to vibrate and rub against the opposing surface. Screw or bolt may feel tight may be tight, but if it is not tight against what ever it is holding down, that part will still vibrate and make noise. Also sometimes wearing ear plugs while riding will change what frequencies you hear, maybe wearing ear plugs will remove some of the other noise and help isolate the noise source better, also if you ride with ear plugs for a few hours then remove them and continue riding you will (at least it happens to me) hear a lot of things you did not hear before, that also may help to locate the source more precisely. Just some thoughts, your mileage will vary, as the car folks say.