M61A1MECH

I recall having the same issue, just had to massage the cables, may have needed to remove them from one or two of the clips and reposition around the other cables and wires, took a bit of fiddling around. Needs to be worked out, last thing you need is a stuck or sticky throttle going into or coming out of turn. Good luck.

Here are some photos of what I did, not fancy by any means, but functional. I went to a local auto parts store and bought some rubber inserts for coil springs, cut and shaped them as needed, in retrospect I could have glued them to the OEM bumpers or installed screw from the bottom so they were not visible, but once installed the tabs I made were virtually invisible down in that hole. The tabs were just cut from some aluminum stock I had laying around.

The one issue I had when I installed risers on my 2007 Venture was that the rubber supports between the bars and the top of the triple tree no longer supported the handle bars. Without the supports the bars seemed to flex a bit more. Some folks managed to turn them around but I fashioned a spacer of sorts, but I cannot find my photos of the 07, it has been gone for a long time. The risers did cure the shoulder ache issue I was having with the stock risers. If you have a 2005 to 2010 Tour DeLuxe I am pretty sure there are no risers for those models.

Have you tried Pin Wall Salvage? Here is a link that may help. https://pinwallcycle.com/index.php?cPath=156_157_182_2724

That is truly good news, praying for continued improvements.

I cannot help with what the plastic thing-a-bob is, but I can shed some light on the tubes. Those are drain/vent tubes, one of them goes to the airbox, it is part of the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PVC) system. As the engine creates vacuum to pull air into the carbs, there is a line from the airbox to the crankcase, oil vapors and in some circumstances liquid oil is pulled from the crank case into the air box, the vapors are supposed to go into the carbs and out the exhaust. If there is to much vapor it can condense back to a liquid and settle in the bottom of the airbox where it collects at the end of the tube which then gravity drains onto the road way or your drive way. It is very common to have this happen and is part of the design. The situation can be made worse if you over fill the crankcase with oil or at sustained high speed riding as the oil tends to slosh around more than normal and is more prone to get sucked up into the PVC tube and then the liquid oil ends up in the air box. Next time you have the tank off, open the air box and inspect for oil residue, wipe it dry that should solve the dripping for a good little bit. The other two tubes may be carb vent hose in the case a float sticks the excess fuel will drain out those hoses, if that is not correct , someone will be along shortly to set me right.

Nice job, looks great.

Have you found the read only tech section yet? Here is a link to the wiring diagrams, this may help.

I do not see anything specific to front wheel removal, but Freebird was kind enough to make the maintenance manual available in PDF format. Try this link, https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forums/topic/62785-2018-star-venture-tc-service-manual-and-infotainment-manual/?do=getNewComment Good luck with your project. Steve K

Smells like SPAM to me.

that looks like a spammer.

When my 07 started to act up like you are describing I found that the piston in the master cylinder was sticking. I carefully drained as much fluid as I could from the master cylinder and then removed the piston and cleaned it up with fresh brake fluid and lubed the pivot pins with a light oil or Teflon. Also cleaned out the sludge in the bottom of the master cylinder, amazing how much crud you get in a "closed" system. Anyway after that the catch I was experiencing went away. As recall there is no cable in the system because it is all hydraulic, I could be wrong, my Venture has been gone for a long time and my memory is not what it used to be. Other more knowledgeable folks will be along soon I am sure.

Check to see if the air boxes have been modified of if there are K&N filters installed. On my 2007 when I modified the airboxes, that is cut the holes larger, I had a stumble on hard acceleration, I shimmed the needles, see the tech section for doing this, when I put K&N filters on the stumble came back and I had to re-shim the needles, that mostly got rid of it. The only way I got rid of it was to purchase a used pair of unmodified air boxes from Ebay. May not be your problem, but easy to check for. Also check that the diaphragms in the carbs are not damaged, some times they get pin holes in them

I am still building them and have replied to your PM messages. For any one interested, I do build these for folks in need, one issue that has come up in the past few months is that the 5 way isolator I have always used is no longer available, I have a couple of work arounds for that, but like to talk it over with the buyer to make sure they are on board with the work around. 4 Way isolator / converters have not been an issue to date, but the prices are steadily increasing. I have been told the 5 way isolator went out of production sometime in 2021 or 2022 with no estimate for a return to production. I am happy to help where ever I can if you are in need.

As usual I am a day late and a dollar short, but thought it would be a good time recognize the first Irish sharp shooter, Rick O'Shea.

I do not own any guns or motorcycles, but I do own or have owned all the wood working tools I need, including a Dewalt thickness planner, worth every penny I paid for it. A planner is one of those tools that when you need it you can not use something else to replace it. They are noisy and create a lot of chips, I have a dust collector that I connect to mine, it helps, but but I still spend time cleaning up after myself when I use it. For one of my projects I bought about $500.00 worth of rough sawn Walnut and Cherry and turned it into a buffet unit for the wife that would have cost me easily $3000.00 to buy, if we could have found what we wanted built to my satisfaction. So I would go for the planner then I would save up and buy a drum sander I use mine a lot more than I use my planner.

Good to hear she will be OK.

Not just grapes, raisins (dried grapes) are just as toxic to animals, my granddaughter is a vet tech and while we were visiting a grape fell on the floor, she has two dogs and a cat, she immediately dove on the floor to retrieve it before any of the animals could get to it. She explained what the issue is, but I forget the details, suffices to say, grapes and raisins are bad for vats and dogs. Don, Hoping for the best results for your Sheltie.

Thanks for the info, I will keep those handy for future projects, below is a link to what we found and settled on, my customer has it installed using an ignition switched 12 volt source to power the relays up, at last report he is having no issues with them. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B60BQFA?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

My 98 Royal Star Tour Classic was by far my favorite bike.

Several folks have mounted after market Harley style Tour Packs on their bikes and yes the brackets are custom made, usually by the owners and at least one member here is mounting a Venture trunk to an Eluder. I only know about these because I have built wiring harnesses for them to make the lights functional, for the one mounting a Venture trunk, he will be mounting one of my Venture style light bars to his. I think most folks doing this are on a Facebook platform for the Eluder, all my orders for those have come through Facebook Good luck with your search..

here is a link to the tech bulletin about this issue.

Dave, It is a mystery to me, makes no sense, but there is a resistor in line with each LED that maybe that knocks down any parasitic draw, he tapped into the circuit between the ECU where the signal comes from and the resistors. He did find a 5mV charge on the lines, but that bled off quickly with just the meter load, so I chocked that up to capacitance in the wires. Not knowing what is going on inside the ECU I really can not offer any rational explanation. I thought maybe he had left the key on in the accessory position, but he said the bike alarms if the ignition is left on for a few minutes and he was sure he would have noticed the ignition switch in anything but the OFF position when he came back to it the next day. He and the bike are in California and I am here in Florida, so I have no one on one with the bike and no knowledge of the bike's systems beyond what I read in the schematics. I cannot believe the LEDs would be the issue. We have selected a small encapsulated relay that has two normally open contacts, he is going to wire them in so they come on and close the contacts when the ignition is on and let the bike send the turn signal power to the added LEDs through the closed contacts. Should work, he will let me knows once they are installed. What puzzles me is he cannot be the first rider to try an add addition signal lights to the front of an Eluder and I just built a system for him that connects the rear turns, running and brake circuits to a Harley style tour pack, that all worked just fine, tapped into the rear lights just as you would for a trailer harness but without and isolator, that has been installed for over a week with no issues. Here is for hoping the isolation relays do the trick.

Trying to help a fellow with an Eluder, he wants to add running and turn signals to the front forks, he has found that if the turn signal circuits are connected directly to the LEDs he purchased there is a constant drain on the battery, even with the ignition off. Sounds crazy to me, but he has troubleshot it out so I believe he is correct. So my question is , what have other forum members used for isolation relays to turn light circuits on and off. I have used isolation relays for my trailer harnesses, but they are currently unavailable due to part shortages, I have already recommended the isolation relay from EC that they used for their trailer harnesses, but both EC's offering and my traditional go to device are expensive for what he needs to do. I am looking for a proven product, suitable for LEDs that does not break the bank. Thanks M61A1MECH