M61A1MECH

In the parts list it is simply called cover cap 2, see item 10 on this breakdown https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/yam/50043eccf8700209bc78df32/crankcase-cover-1 Normally it is called the timing hole cover.

I just pay the money to enter and walk the exhibit.

Puc, Here is an event I try to attend every year, not many for sale , but a ton to look at. https://ridingintohistory.org/

Up at 4:30 to make it to work for 6:45 to open up, but that stops in 5 weeks, when I retire and start collecting SS and Boeing retirement money. First thing after that is head up to Ohio for Freebird’s mai t day and a stop at Wright Patterson AFB for the museum.

Dion, Are we still doing this one?

It is a fiddly project, I found that having a replacement on hand when I did mine it helped me to visualize what I had to do to get it out. I think putting it in is easier than taking it out. Just go easy and keep trying different angles, it will come out.

Welcome to the forum, afrer you find your hitch, if you need wiring set up, check my ad on the member vendor section, I sure I have what you need.

Dion, you can drag and drop in S&T I do it all the time.

Dion, Streets and Trips (some versions, mine is 2011) do support GPX, I just converted one last week using the built in "export to GPX" command, copied that file into my Garmin, where it stores it in "my data" in the GPS, loaded from my data to favorites and off I went, worked perfectly. No screwing around with base camp or any thing else, just S&T and my Garmin.

Well I am still using Microsoft Streets and Trips, it is not supported any more and maybe not even available to purchase, but it works and to me it is very easy to use. I have the 2011 version and it will export GPX files hat my Garmin accepts. Not sure that helps you much.

Pencil me in.

Yes there is, it is part of the starting circuit cut off relay assembly, there are two relays in that assembly. That assembly should be item 45 in the parts list in the link below. Called Relay Assy (5Ea-00) FOR SIDE STAND PN 5EA-81950-00-00 https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/yam/50045f98f8700209bc794e98/electrical-1 I have some PDF files I can send you, if you email me from my profile, I will send them to you. Put Venture fuel pump in the message title so I know the email is not junk.

Find Dion on here, forum name, DJH3, should have a listing in the classified section for ignition bypass. Here is alink http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=697&title=rsv-ignition-by-pass-relay&cat=8 Not sure if the older classic Royals are the same as the Ventures. Yes the early Royal Stars had the same issues, my 98 Tour Classic had the ignition switch right behind the radiator, boy would it get hot, failed on me while under warranty. The later edition bikes were supposed to have a heavier duty switch, after it was replaced I never had any issues with it.

Next time it happens open the gas cap and listen for the sound of air rushing in to the tank. Could be the tank vent is plugged and a vacuum is developing in the tank, starving the carbs for fuel. If that is the case most likely cause is plugged vent hose, need to blow compressed air from tank side down.

Highly debated topic over on the various Goldwing boards, I talked with a new 2018 owner the other day, he said the stock suspension on the 2018 was the best he has seen on any of the Goldwings he has owned. I have not had the opportunity to ride a new Goldwing, and I may not, as one of the folks over on the 1800Riders forum said if you cannot afford to buy a new one, do not ride one, because if you do you will want to buy one.

I was going to suggest that as an option, a friend had it done at the industrial laundry he manages, but I was not sure how much it would cost, figure it would be a bunch, but never thought it would be that much. I agree that is way to much money. Good luck with the repairs.

Depending on how much to small the heat shrink is, you may be able to stretch it enough to fit then shrink it back in place. Sometimes heatshrink start to recove it’s size (shrink) on its own due to age . If you do decide to get new heat shrink in a more appropriate size, get the adhesive lined type, it is much better at water proofing.

Weeping plugs in the cylinders is pretty common for all variants of the Royal family of bikes. Best not to use any sort of sealant. The two options most folks use are; 1) Replace them with new, best done in concert with changing the coolant, as quite a lot of fluid comes out when you pull the plugs and the system is full. 2) Tape a dime or a penny to the inside the fake fins where the boss is that normally presses on the plug, the plugs tend to shrink over time and just need a little help finding their seat, the extra thickness of a penny or dime is just enough to seat them fully. I used the coin shim trick on both my 98 Tour Classic and my 07 Venture for many years with no leaks. Good luck.

Short answer is yes. but if you have LEDs in the turn signals and have installed an electronic flasher unit to control the flash rate, the self canceling feature may not work.

I can certainly sympathize with you and wish you all the best in your search for a new job. I was laid off after 21 years at the same company and at 63 it was hard find a job. I tried selling real estate for a while, but that turned out to be almost that same as being unemployed, so when an entry level job was offered I took it. Using the knowledge I gained over those 21 years plus other life experiences, I have been upwardly mobile in my new job over the past 10 months and everything is working out nicely. Just remain positive and keep looking. Keep us posted.

OK here are some photos of the 5 wire system I made for another member. Entire system Trailer harness section Bike attach harness POSI TAPS GEN I TRAILER HARNESS.pdf Schematic diagram

I have not posted the GEN I harness to the classifieds yet, I was wanting to gauge the interest first. The harness does not "plug in" it uses "POSI-TAPS" which are minimally invasive taps that use a sharp pointed probe to pierce the insulation and reach the conductor. Much better that cutting and splicing, much better and simpler than window stripping the insulation and making a solder and tape joint and way better than those wretched blue Scotch-Lock guillotine type taps. I do make it so the Isolator/converter and the trailer harness can be unplugged and removed if needed and also give you 5 tag wires that you can splice into later for adding more lights without having to cut and splice. I have one made for a fellow member, I can take photos and post them if that would help. Here is a link to show you what POSI-TAPS are, http://www.cycleterminal.com/posi-lock-connectors.html Let me know what else I can do to help.

Well sometimes folks know exactly which trailer they are getting and how it is wired instead of waiting until they pick it up. That way they can have the bike pre-wired and pick the trailer up with the bike and have the lights work on the ride home.

Saying you have too much stuff is like having too much fun, not gonna happen.

A few years ago when I started making plug and play trailer harnesses for second generation Ventures, I had several requests to make one for various first generation Ventures. Due to unavailability of the 13 pin connector required, I could not supply a true "plug and play" version. I was recently approached again an offered a minimally invasive alternative harness. I designed the system using "Posi-Tap" connectors that pierce the insulation of the needed wires, these are much better and more secure that the traditional blue Scotch Loc pinch on type you get in the trailer wiring kits. If there is still interest here on the first gen side of the house for such a product, I would be happy to offer them in the members vendor section along side my other products. They would be similarly priced to my current offerings. Please let me know either by PM or reply to this thread and I will go from there. Thanks