M61A1MECH

Here is place that some of the Goldwingers are using, https://ceramicpro.com/ , bad part is, you have to take the vehicle to them or they have to come to you for the application, it is apparently not something the average Joe can do in his garage. I have used the TECH SHINE product from AEROLON , https://aerolon.com/, it works well, easy to apply, seems to last pretty well. One thing I do like about it is how it treats black plastic. On the Goldwing there are a lot of black semi-texturized surfaces that were always a pain to keep looking decent, after I applied the TECH SHINE they looked like new and have stayed that way ever since. I forget how long since I applied it, but it has been several months I know that. I also used their Show Polish. As soon as it cools down here in Florida, I am probably due for another application.

Good deal, I love it when a plan comes together.

That is great, interesting bike.Let me know if I can help on the wiring, I am sure can build a fender harness with a little info and pictures of mating connector(s). The Suzuki 250 was backwards from that as I recall, it had two header pipes into one muffler, but it only had one cylinder.

Those instruction sound backwards to me, if I am understanding what I read. The tail light power should go through the resistor to dim it slightly. The brake power should go directly to the LEDs on the wing so they light up at full power. If the brake power goes through the resistor then you will never see it, because the tail light is over powering it.

Freebird, Yes that is in essence what I suggested he do several days back. Maybe I should have posted these photos when I first got them., I do not like how they wired it, but again, no matter the state of the wiring, if the only thing wrong is left and right turns are swapped , easy peazy to swap the two at the trailer input connector. I am not with the guy so maybe there is more to the story that I know.

Yeah, That is exactly what I suggested, he just has not had time to get back to working on it for the last couple of days. I am working on a schematic based on what I can figure out from the photos I have from him.

The tester is wired as 4 way with back up, his bike and trailer are wired for 5 way (separate turns and brakes). My bet is the PO just matched the bike out put to the trailer's needs and all he needs to do is swap the turns left and right. I would make the change on the trailer side so if he pulls another trailer the bike matches the accepted standard for trail wiring. The wires on the lights are are color coded black, red and white for both the red and amber lights, I only have photos of the inside of the trailer so I am not sure if the outboard light is red or amber, I am assuming the out board light module is the amber one, because the outboard light module on each side is not using the black wire, only the red and white. But there are green wires splice to white wires and blue wires spliced to green wires, green wires spliced to yellow wires, from the pictures it is just not possible to tell what is what. I suspect that one of the green wires is a jumper from the left or right brake to the other side, but just a feeling right now. I have given him the basic wiring diagram for a 6 wire set up that is on E-trailer, but edited to look like a 5 wire, he is going to work with that and let me know what he finds out.

Maybe, but if it just a couple of swapped wires, then that should be very easy to fix. I have not heard from him in a day or so, sent him an email earlier today to see if he has made any progress.

Glad I could help. Love the old original Royals, I had a 98 Royal Star Tour Classic, put a full set of BUB pipes on her sounded great, never did get very good gas mileage, but loved every minute of the 96,000 miles I rode her.

Prayers up from Florida for Bob and Becky.

Most likely issue is your photos are to large, try resizing them, somewhere on the page where you up load them it tells you the max size.

Prayers up from Florida.

Yeah that was one of the first places I found, I also contacted the sales/service at timeout but neither he nor the website had info on how the trailer is wired, just how the connectors are wired. I did reach out to a fellow named Fred up in New York that sells them, he also has a trailer place up the road in Port Orange and bought a few of my harnesses a couple of years back. He was more more helpful than timeout and offered to talk to Gary (the owner having trouble). Gary sent me some photos and the wiring is goofy from what I can see. Right now it seems the issue is left and right turns are swapped, so that should be an easy fix, poor guy has little to know hands on experience with electricity, so he is struggling. To make things worse he bought a couple of plug in testers that are to made for testing a 5 wire system that is wired as a 4 wire trailer with back up lights, those do not work on a regular 5 way, because of the way the 5 to 4 converters are wired internally to handle the hand off of the brake circuit when a turn is selected and the brakes are applied. Then he got a volt/ohm meter that he could not keep powered on, it kept shutting off. He was on his way to replace the meter last I heard from him, so I am not sure where he is in the trouble shooting, I have not heard from him for several hours.

I have seen stories on the mid engine Vette also recently, I seem to recall them promising a mid engine Vette back maybe in the 70's or 80's , those never came about, so although I would like to see one, I am not holding my breath, and I am also sure I will not be able to afford one either :mo money:. I am a bit of a purest at heart and agree with an old friend of mine that told me long ago that real sports cars did not have automatic transmissions and did not have roll up windows, not sure anyone is making those kinds any more.

I am trying to help out a customer that bought one of my harnesses, the harness is fine, but he is having issues sorting out the wiring on the trailer, I was hoping that maybe someone had a wiring diagram or some first hand knowledge of Cyclemates, specific model he has is a Wind Raider. I have not seen the trailer, as he is in Minneapolis and I am in Florida. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

I would first suspect the voltage regulator, using a volt/ohm meter check for voltage at the battery with the bike idling and then increase the rpms , should be somewhere around 13 to 14 volts, if it goes higher then the regulator is not regulating. Had the regulator go on my 2007 Venture, it cooked the battery to the point it nearly exploded. Dion is correct the stators do go bad also, but the regulators are more often the issue.

I mounted mine in the trunk also, did not have the factory mount, so I pulled the cargo net off the front end of the trunk, fashioned an aluminum strap that cradled it and picked up a couple of factory fastener locations put some padding below and around it to protect from bumps. Using a couple of small black Ty-Raps I was able to attach the cargo net back around the CD player. Worked great , only the occasional skip on bad bumps. Still have pics someplace if anyone is interested I will dig them up.

Good looking bike, congrats on the find.

PM Read and replied to, parts will on the way Monday.

I do not have still shots or a video, I do not have a Venture any more so that is not an option, I do include a wiring diagram with every harness I send out. The operation is very simple, under the seat there is a 6 pin male/female connector set with 5 wires in them, this harness connects between those 2 factory connections, the tag wires coimg out are connected to the 5 circuits in the harness, Brake, Left Turn, Right Turn, Tail and Ground, all you need to do is splice on to those wires according to the color code on the diagram I supply and Bob's your Uncle as they. Simple enough?

OK I fixed the link, in my original post. Yes my breakout harness will ensure brake and tail light functions, as long as the lights in the wing have both functions. Doug, included your mailing address in the PM and I will get one right out to you.

Had a similar issue a number of years back, I dropped in a new pump and all was good, took the old pump to local place and they rebuilt it. Sitting in my shed as a spare. One thing is those pumps do not like to run dry, they will ruin the impeller in short order, so if you lost prime on the pump and it ran for a while dry, the impeller is probably toast. You need to make sure there is water in the pipe going to the well or what ever is supplying the pump. On mine there is a threaded plug on the top of the pump and on the top of the well pipe, fill them up with water to prime the system. If the foot valve is bad the water in the pipe going to the source will leak out. It is possible that if you have a simple well with a sand point at the bottom, which is pretty typical here in FL, the sand point is clogged or maybe the water level has dropped below the bottom of the well pipe.

Resurrecting a year old thread because I just got word from another Goldwing rider that his 2017 Bushtec trailer ate the bushings, unfortunately for him he says the A-arm tube was damaged so he is waiting to see if Bushtec will man up and fix it for him. So I want to say if you own a Bustec trailer, make sure to check your A-arm ends where they tie to the frame, make sure the bushings are sound.

Here is a link to the tech section here that shows the LED mod for Venture flashers. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?128835-LED-Turn-Signal-Mod

Glad I could help, now the opposite is also true, if you are in 4th or 5th and dive in hot into a corner and expecting engine braking to come into play, it will not be there, again start looking for 3rd and then power out of the turn. Thee V-4 is a very different animals, takes a while to get used to them. Ride safe and often