M61A1MECH

From DR Google I found this, How do I tell what size Mikuni carb I have? Measure the inside diameter of the carb on the engine side. Maybe this helps. Found this here on page 82, of the full manual, not the supplements. https://www.venturerider.org/manuals/1996-2001 Royal Star LIT-11616-VZ-01.pdf

You may be restricted from private messaging because you are a trial member, I will try to PM you with my email address. PM Sent

The bike does have a temp sensor, that turns the fan on and turns the light on. There is a fairly easy test that can be done with each one, see the tech section for a copy of the repair manual that tells how to test it. I have attached a PDF of the pages from the manual that should help. Troubleshooting temp sensor.pdf

That may fit behind the battery, to hold the cable that was supplied with the bike to use as a helmet lock. I forget where the cable was locked to when securing the helmet(s), I am not sure I ever used mine.

No

so here is the picture, I have no idea, except maybe it is a cover for the lock mechanism in the saddle bags on a tour deluxe. I do not recall ever seeing anything like that on my 98 Tour Classic with soft bags. Do not recall if there were covers over the saddle bag locks on my Venture.

May be because you are listed as a trial member, but normally you can just up load from your computer. PM sent.

No the rear shock is not air over hydraulic on the original Royal Stars, the air over hydraulic shocks started with the 1999 Venture and was only used on the Ventures from 1999 to 2013 and the Tour DeLuxe 2005 to 2010. For the front shocks the max pressure is 7 psi and you needed to use a zero loss pump, normally they look like an over sized syringe. I am not sure who makes or sells them now a days. You used to be able to find them at Harley dealers.

Probably take more than a toggle switch, some of the wires carry a lot of current and the heat produced would likely destroy a toggle switch, in cases like that best to use a toggle switch to actuate a relay that is rated for the current. On my 98 Royal Star Tour Classic the ignition switch was located on the left front just behind the radiator so it got plenty hot. My ignition switch went bad while the bike was under warranty so the local shop replaced it for free. I am not sure if new switch modules are still available or not for that year bike, if they are I would replace it, if not look up Dion Hinskey here on the forum, he makes ignition bypasses for the 1999 to 2013 Ventures, he may be able to help with one for your year and model. Here is link to his profile, https://www.venturerider.org/forum/profile/6542-djh3/

Check the fuel pump and the fuel filter. The fuel pump should come on when the ignition is first turned on, there should be several noticeable clicks as the pump pressurizes the system. When the bike dies on the road, open the gas cap and listen for any sound like air rushing into the tank, that would indicated the vent tube is clogged. Sometimes when bikes sit for a long time, critters can make nests in the vent tube and plug it up causing there to be a vacuum in the tank that will prevent the fuel from flowing out. Also check the electrical module on the back of the ignition switch, they have been known to over heat and go bad.

The fairing is made of ABS plastic, you may want to try some ABS glue.

Agreed but the speed bleeders work on what ever system you install them, you can even use them on hydraulic clutches, they work very well and all with out the help of another person.

When I had my Goldwing, the brake bleeding process was very involved due it having linked brakes, I installed Speed Bleeders, those coupled with a catch pouch, I could do the whole process in a matter of minutes and never had an issue with air or spongey brakes. http://www.speedbleeder.com/bikechart.htm

Most likely is a stuck needle valve or debris in between the needle and the seat that is not allowing the float to close the valve fully. Some times a dose of Seafoam and a good spirited run will clear that up if it is minor. If a dose of Seafoam or carb cleaner does not fix it, you probably in for a carb overhaul. I am pretty sure the are posts in the tech library to help with this issue.

Forward the email to PayPal using this address, spoof@paypal.com .

T6 is what I used in my 2013 Goldwing, that was a manual shift not the CVT like the new 2018 and up Goldwings. In my 2013 it helped eliminate ghost shifting and made shifting smoother.

Thanks for the kind words, but I must make one correction, I do not make the ignition bypass system, another member here named Dion #djh3 makes those.

Behind the license plate you will find where the taillight and turn signals come together, you can tap into the needed circuits in there. The connections are bullet style single connectors. I do sell some special multi tap bullet adapters but if you are replacing the taillight all together you may not need those unless you want to retain the OEM turns. As far as the light bar under the trunk I sell those with a plug and play harness that taps in under the seat, with enough information about your light bar I am sure I can make a plug and play set up for that also. You check out this thread if you like. If you do not have this already here is the color codes for the rear lighting Tail = Blue Right turn = Green Left Turn = Brown Brake = Yellow Ground = Black Happy to help if I can.

Jay, Freebird is correct, there are i think 4 wire loops where you feed black tywraps through and around what ever is close and cinch them up. I always had extra tywraps in the trunk, just in case. Good Luck Steve K

I do not need the guard either, but I did have one on my 2007 and can vouch that it is a great product,. One word of caution to who ever gets it or anyone that has one, if the front of your bike is lowered be mindful that if you grab a big handful of front brake and the nose dives, the trailing edge of the front fender can contact the Wagner grill guard and you can loose the ability to steer. The only reason I know that is the fellow I bought my guard from had that happen, his bike was lowered and the front fender caught the guard, once, that is why he sold it to me so it could not happen to him again.

So when I clicked on the link you provided, my Norton virus protection blocked it as a dangerous website, enough said.

That is great news, praying for continued speedy recovery.

Yes my standard set up uses the 4 lights left or right of center as turn signals, they will blink with the turn signals, but only if the brakes are not applied. Any time the brakes are applied the 8 lights on either side of the center light illuminate at full brightness. The extreme left and right as well as the center are on anytime the tail light is on. Below shows the left turn signal on and tail light on, unfortunately I do not have a video.

In deed I do make trailer set ups and other small connection items as needed. Thanks for reminding me, I forgot to post that bit.

I just wanted to raise some awareness for the newer members and remind some of the older members that I still build and sell the items in the links below. Even though sales have dropped off over the years I still maintain stock of most parts and I can normally build and deliver within two to three days. If you have a special need for adding additional lighting, I most likely would be able to help out either with parts or directions. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forums/topic/62637-5-wire-plug-n-play-trailer-harness/ https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forums/topic/62638-4-wire-plug-n-play-trailer-harness/ https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forums/topic/62635-aux-lighting-harness-for-tour-deluxe/ https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forums/topic/62636-runturnbrake-light-bar-for-2nd-gen-ventures/ https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forums/topic/62634-aux-lighting-harness-for-2nd-gen-venture/ I also build trailer adapters for the Eluder and Transcontinental and adapter harnesses for adapting the lighting on Harley type tour-packs that are added to the Eluder.