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Big_Iz

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Everything posted by Big_Iz

  1. Big_Iz
    Thanks for the confirmation pics, EXRSA, I'm looking at it the right way. At this point, I'm considering modifying the square tube to give it an aft offset and a slightly tilted back angle. Ugh, this is definitely one of those times where it really sucks to be tall.
  2. Big_Iz
    I thought we stopped counting fractional inches once we hit about 5' 6" or so. Thanks for the info! Iz
  3. Big_Iz
    Pulled the seat and here are my assumptions: 1. There should be some sort of bolt/allen screw at the base of the backrest. 2. That bolt should prevent the backrest from pulling out -- I can remove mine just by sliding the backrest out. 3. Since I have no bolt in the base, there is no further adjustment to allow the backrest to tilt further aft. My original goal was to see about getting the backrest to tilt further back. At 6'9", the RSV isn't the most comfortable bike for me, but my wife likes the way it looks and my autistic son rides better on it with the rear pseudo-arm rests. I do admit that I have never tried riding without the backrest altogether, but that's something I'll correct this week. I did get the original seats with the bike, so I might have to put them back on to see how they feel. The extra height in the driver's seat may be a big help, but the backrest is almost a must for me at this point.
  4. Big_Iz
    I'll pull it apart tonight
  5. Big_Iz
    Assume its the dual tour, didn't know they made anything else for the RSV.
  6. Big_Iz
    Can someone with a Corbin seat/backrest talk me through how to adjust the backrest fore/aft setting? I bought my RSV with the seat on and haven't figured it out just yet. Thanks in advance, Iz
  7. Big_Iz
    I shot Klaus an email, will see if we can work something out. Iz
  8. Big_Iz
    I picked up a spare rear rim to try a CT. Went searching today for a tire and it seems that the Kumhos have all dried up. What's the current "hot topic" tire that's available these days? About all I have seen would be the BFG in the right size. TIA, Iz
  9. Big_Iz
    Wow, and here I thought the clock thing was an inside joke -- like the "autolean fluid" on the Honda Pacific Coast group. Guess I actually DO need to RTFM
  10. Big_Iz
    newbie question, what's the trunk mod?
  11. Big_Iz
    Goose, thanks again for your prompting. When I went back in with a 4-way sync tool, it was close, but still a bit off. I'm sure I don't have it exact, but its getting better. Ran a quick jaunt up to the main office last night, 4 hours (half on the NJ turnpike), and it is running more smoothly than previous. Once I get done with checking the valves, setting the float levels and mixture, and new plugs, I will reset the sync again. But back to the original question, the droning vibration on acceleration still exists. So the search continues.
  12. Big_Iz
    The 4-2-4 pipes I heard were very mellow; a great tone for those of the not-so-loud pipe mindset. I wouldn't hesitate to run the set I heard and I may give in to buying a set this fall. Ours/mine sounded like an open header NASCAR engine before I did some work to it -- great to bring a smile to your face, but intolerable on a 40 minute commute and, again part of my personal belief, disrespectful to infringe on someone else's right to peaceful existence.
  13. Big_Iz
    Mine came with the Barons 4 into 2 (think they are called "bag slash") pipes and I have been working a number of combinations to quiet them down to a reasonable level. They sound awesome, but I'm not much of a loud pipe person. So far, I have fabricated a 6" section of baffle and added to the front end of the original baffle and both sections are packed with fiberglass. It is probably half as loud as it was originally and, to my personal tastes, just barely inside the tolerable range. I did, however, hear a set of the Barons 4-2-4 pipes while on the Blue Ridge Parkway a couple weeks ago. Very nice, mellow tone -- enough that I'm considering buying those pipes myself.
  14. Big_Iz
    No discount whatsoever to your experience and I know I don't have the right tool for the job at hand. My response was simply that a previous hand had somehow buggered the sync up pretty bad. I did, however, lose the nice "big cam lope" that was playing a tune before
  15. Big_Iz
    Agreed on the 3-4 turns. Let's put it this way, I use a single-tube home made manometer with some mid-weight oil in it (same thing I have used on every bike for the past 10 years). When I hooked it up to the right front/rear carbs, the front one sucked the tube completely out before I could shut it down. Trust me, it was further off than I have ever seen one before -- usually, the oil will glide up one side until they are adjusted and balanced out, but this was just plain stupid. Anyway, I do plan to go back and redo the sync again just to make sure its good.
  16. Big_Iz
    Posting an update. I finally got around to doing the carb sync. One was WAY off (3-4 full turns of the sync screw). The engine runs smoother, exhaust melody is not so choppy, and the vibration as originally described is reduced. But its not gone. My next step is to complete some maintenance on the rear wheel and final drive. Check all the bearings for any slop, lube everything up, change the final drive fluid, and make sure all is tight.
  17. Big_Iz
    I like the way you think
  18. Big_Iz
    I have owned a wide variety of bikes, recent few being my current 2nd bike (VStrom 1000), VTX 1800c, GL15000, Pacific Coast on back to a '85 VMax almost 20 years ago. I do find myself short-shifting the RSV, partly because I haven't modified the baffles to quieten it up. To answer your question, I have only had the RSV for about a month now. The vibe happens in the mid range RPM, as I don't get on the throttle at lower RPM, try to never lug it around. Its all good, I'm loving the bike and this certainly isn't a deal breaker.
  19. Big_Iz
    Removing the rear wheel and final drive was next on my maintenance (make sure PO did his job) list anyway. I guess its possible that the carb sync could create a harmonic that would shudder its way through the drivetrain though -- hadn't really given that enough consideration yet.
  20. Big_Iz
    I have yet to check the carb sync, so I can't comment either way on that option. I am, however, inclined to look more at the driveline because of the way the vibration happens. Since the vibe isn't constant and continuous while under acceleration, kind of a 4-beats-on, 4-beats-off, my instinct says I have a bearing problem somewhere. All the input is very much appreciated, Iz
  21. Big_Iz
    I have noticed a droning vibe when accelerating -- equivalent of what I would call a driveshaft vibration on a car. If I let off the throttle, it immediately goes away. Obviously difficult to describe in words, but let's call it a brrrr....rrrrr....rrrrr that increases with speed, but only when on the throttle (anything above a "light" acceleration). While I was changing the dogbones, I spun the back wheel around in the air, didn't feel anything loose, didn't notice any kind of looseness in the bearings (wheel mounted). From my search, I didn't note any common problems as such, so I'm looking for any wisdom on a place to start. Bike is new to me, has done it since day one for me, tires are pretty new, bike has about 32k miles and appears to have been well maintained and not abused. Thanks, Iz
  22. Big_Iz
    Agreed on the pilot circuits
  23. Big_Iz
    Understand that this is my own interpretation and anyone is open to disagree. Carb sync, particularly on a 4 cylinder motor, should be done at above idle -- let's say 2000+ RPM (in the very low end of the cruise range at least). Why? Let's look at what the carb sync really is -- it is the adjustment of the mechanical linkage controlling how much the throttle blades are open on each carb to match it up to the primary (the carb directly controlled by the throttle cables). Going into midrange and upper RPM, each cylinder's power is governed by the main jet (air/fuel mix) and throttle blade opening. While you can adjust the jet size, they are typically fixed per carb, leaving you only the throttle blade to adjust. At idle, I like to adjust the sync via the idle mix screw. Assuming the throttle blades are already synced, the idle sync becomes more of a fine-tuning of the air/fuel mix via the mixture screws. I'm not always able to get the idle mix to get the sync exactly close, but it usually gets better than having all 4 carbs with the exact same mix-screw setting. I don't go far with adjusting the screw, trying to keep the screws within +/- 1/2 turn of each other. Anyway, that's how I go about it. Haven't had a chance to kick it off on the RSV yet, but that's on my to-do list.
  24. Big_Iz
    Update: I pulled both calipers back off last night and removed the slide pins. They were lightly greased already, I added a little more and reassembled. Then I moved up to the master cylinder. I removed the lever, greased the pivot screw and added a little dab to the contact point at the plunger. Huge difference this morning. When the brake lever previously would hit a brick wall and I still wasn't slowing down, I believe I am now up to the "RSV just has weak front brakes" level -- at the very bottom end of acceptable. At least I didn't fear for my life riding this morning like I did the first outing. The R1 caliper upgrade is still in the works, but I'm a whole lot happier today than I was a few days ago. Thanks for all the input, Iz
  25. Big_Iz
    Overpowering the calipers and reducing the feel/control. Like trying to drive a finish nail with a 24oz framing hammer.
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