2WHEELSFORME

It updates, even road construction if you have the CD or you can run without the CD but no updates, that allows you to use it on more than one computer. The great part is you can tune it to show your travleling times. really helps on planning a day. It does take some set up with telling how fast you drive on each type of roads. Put 10 mph on interstates it will keep you away from those but will greatly extend your estimated travel time if interstate is the only choise of a road.

I will second the Microsoft Streets and Trips. I have been using it for years and it is easy to learn and has tons of options. Trip times are adjustable to your riding style so very accurate. One time cost is low at Office Depot etc.

Where would I find this fork brace for a 2nd gen?

I'm using the MT 66 myself but not enough miles to see how long they will last. The pricing was much lower than the Metzs or Elites. Maybe the MTs are so much better they fell the small level change in the painted stripe where the less feeling Mets do not. Yea I'll go with that for now. On the other hand this bike flops around so much with any tire I've tried that I just don't care about handling anymore. I love it for the comfort it offers.

Any going? I headed up that way from Pensacola. Always a lot of long distance bikes show up. External fuel tanks etc. Fun looking around with hundreds of bikes and the Stagecoach has great food. http://www.thelastrideoftheyear.com/

It cost about 50 for the pump and around 20 for the several brass fittings I used to make it work in the same location and with the original hoses. All it takes is a slight bend in each of the mounting brackets and it bolts up to one of the two original holes with an original bolt. I purchased two 1/8" npt to 5/16" hose connectors, a hose to hose union, a 1/8" street 90, a 1/8" close nipple, a 1/8" npt 90 and a short piece of 5/16 hose and two hose clamps. This changes the in/out from each side of the new pump to copy the in/out to be on the same side like the original pump. Only two wires to splice into with what ever connection you choose. Very easy and I'm hopeing this one last longer than the last two OEM pumps. It has the positive shut off so no need to turn off petcock each time you stop. It is the Facet 40171 http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php?clickkey=250753

My stock fuel pump has failed me twice. First under warrenty so no cost and second time being on my dime I replaced it with the aircraft type. It does take some additional fittings but it is positive shutoff so no having to turn off the petcock and no holes have to be drilled. Hopefully it is a better pump than stock.

Never felt the need for heated gear in the past but decided late last year to give it a try. Yesterday was 77 deg but woke up to 45 this morning for a planned ride. I have a Gerbin liner and gloves and I can't believe I waited so long to be in comfort while riding in cold weather. Nothing cold at all except my knees so maybe pants are next. If you been on the fence about heated gear I give it a thumbs up.

I would not pull that butt ugly thing even if the welds were perfect.

This thread is not about using a relay to reroute the heavy current from the switch. My desire is to identify the wires needed to add another toggle switch or more if needed and make it possible to crank and run with out a key. Yes I know it will need to be hidden. Thank you Wes.

Wes: Which wires are you saying I need to use? I should have checked it while the tank was off.

I have installed the by pass connection between the brown/blue and red wires. This fires up the fuel pump and starter as well as other things I'm sure. My question is what more is needed to completly remove the need for a key? Will another toggle between the blue/yellow and blue /black wire complete the key bypass?

I left it connected inside the front fairing. I covered the exposed end where it no longer has a unit to hook to so that moisture etc. can not get inside the cable. I purchased a universal antenna about 6 inches tall and black for the FM. It was cheap and works well.

I removed mine and have no problems. You can even do it in a way that it can be restored if you change your mind or sell the bike. To answer the question "why". If you don't use the CB, don't like those dual big whips, then why have the weight.

Used Isos on a bike once for many miles and will never install again. They got so sticky I hated to put my hands on them and they turn you hands black also they are so common you see them everywhere. I now use a les expensive grip that has replaceable foam rubber tubes that can be stretched on to the grips.

An 09 with a rebuilt engine does not scare you?

A cold front came thru here and now it's in the low 60s. Hey Ion back when you had the Volusia were you a member of the old VOL or Volusia Owners Leauge? I had a B&W 01 and loved it and that board.

It is not hard to remove the rear wheel if you have a lift.

Well you took it well. Sorry just joshing you. My thoughts are Yamaha parts are way overpriced. Even OEM stuff can be found much less on line than at the shop. But Ive had poor luck with Kury chrome which I have a lot of on my VTX, just pits too easy. I was serious about the front fender rail, I mean you already have a fender do dad thing and a fender trim. After market trunk luggage rack would be the way to go I think.

NO NO! Only a bike cutomed out like mine is the correct way. Of course that means you will have to let it get down and scratched up, sand all the bad spots out and use 20 bucks worth of truck bed liner to repaint. Never have to worry about "SHINNEY" paint again. It will also need a lot of the ugly chrome removed or at least blacked out, power coat is best. "Remember chrome won't get you home". Most other additions are for makeing the bike work better as looks don't matter much, except fot those front fender rails they are butt ugly and useless.

I will be in Ashville Saturday night myself. Doing some BRP and waterfall exploring and well as leaf peeping. No bike this time bringing my wife and dog.

Did one check at 50k because I had a leaking head gasket. They were in spec and have not done another with 81K now.

Montering system came standard on my Jeep and what junk that has turned out to be. After replacing two of the sensors I have now given up and just ignore the light on the dash. So easy to hit the tires with a guage. More accurite read out than an idiot light anyway.

How in the world would you ship something that long?

You will find less controversy asking a question about gun rights or abortion. Do your own research, I have with close to 200k on four bikes and always using automotive oil. Here is one persons opinion, of course you can find whatever you wish to hear on the internet. The only thing I say is; automotive will not always ruin your clutch at least it has not in mine. This guy is opinionated: AUTOMOTIVE OIL VS. MOTORCYCLE OIL We come to the issue of whether to use a motorcycle specific oil or not. You'll hear varying opinions on this. I'm going to lay out the facts for you, and you can decide what to do with them. Speak with just about any motorcycle manufacturer rep or dealer and you'll hear the following rhetoric: Don't use any oil that has an API rating higher than SG. Some will even go so far as to say no higher than SF. In case you don't know what those letters mean, the American Petroleum Institute (API) comes out with new standards for motor oils every few years. Each time they come out with a new standard, the bar is raised. Fuel efficiency must be better, protection benefits must be increased, cold temperature performance must be improved, etc. So, the higher the second letter of the "code" the "better" the oil. In other words, you should expect an SH oil to be better than an SG oil, and an SJ oil is better than an SH oil, etc. As a side note, gasoline oils are always rated as an Sx, with the "x" being the level of the rating. Diesel oils are always rated with a Cx. Sometimes there will even be a number after the Cx, such as with a diesel CG-4 or CH-4 specification. Again, the higher the second letter, the better the oil. An oil that meets both the API gasoline specs and the diesel specs will likely carry both API ratings. Motorcycle manufacturers have come up with a very clever way to avoid meeting the newer and more stringent API standards while still selling their oils as premium "motorcycle-specific" lubricants. Most motorcycle-specific oils haven't been tested for the latest API standards in the past decade or so. They are still rated SF or SG, which, according to motorcycle manufacturers and dealers is better for your bike. Many times they'll even go so far as to say that they'll void your warranty if you use an oil that is SH or SJ rated. That makes it easy to scare you into thinking you need their oil because you don't feel like you have much choice. As a result, motorcycle manufacturers have been able to charge many motorcyclists $3.00 to $5.00 per quart or more for old, outdated petroleum motor oil formulations that would sell for about 50 cents in an auto parts store. Do you think they're making a killing on these products? Do you think they're going to shoot straight with you if they can keep raking in the loot? I think we know the answer to those questions. Just to set the record straight, they can't legally void your warranty for using an SH or SJ rated oil unless they can prove that use of such oils actually caused the mechanical failure in question. That's not to say they might not try, but if you stick to your guns, they really don't have a leg to stand on. They don't have any way of knowing that you used such oils anyway. If you want to see the legislation that outlines these warranty coverage issues, head on over to Chapter 13 and read the section titled "New Car Warranties and Extended Drains". Or, simply click here. The truth is that many automotive oils are actually better for your bike than some motorcycle-specific oils. Let's take a look at some of the flaws in their arguments and see if we can't wade through the mumbo-jumbo.