2WHEELSFORME

No responses as to someone having a problem just warnings. 112K here checked once at 45k and it was within specs.

I was not talking about running the battery down, just lowering the voltage enough so that it does not power the horns to the max. Prob no reduction in sound for two or three but I would think at some point you can have too many and a single battery can't power them all to the max volume. But I've been wrong before LOL.

I fail to see the danger of someone knowing my address. It is common knowledge and can be found many places. I use the county tax records all the time to find out the owners name of a house I'm interested in as a Realtor. Many people have name and address on the mailbox out front.

It makes me wonder just how many horns can you mount before you start to have diminished battery power. After all it is 12 volts not unlimited. Keeping the stock electric horn in addition to dual mini compressors for the two air horns makes me think it could drop power enough that now the air horns are supplied with less power and don't blow as loud? Even two horns have to split the power. Headlight and other things are also draining power. I don't know the answer but interested in what someone with more electrical knowledge that I might think.

Old picture. I have since removed the tall antennas and the front brake disc covers. Also painted the four clear plastic deflectors. Looks much better to me than clear. The chrome trim under windshield is also painted black. http://s45.photobucket.com/user/2wheelsforme/media/Vundercover.jpg.html?o=92

I don't think floorboards are exactly beautiful things. Instead of chroming I black powder coated the rear boards so that they somewhat disappear. Follows the theme of the black out on the midnight. Blacked out several more items like the rear crash bars and the gaudy fender tips. Removed some chrome like the fairing strips of useless chrome and the piece on the rear box and painted some others. The front boards get hard used and scraped so often any finish would get damaged.

Worked on the rear tire but the front got worse after adding RO. Required a wheel removal, slime wash out that cost extra and a remount with weights and all it well. No more magic goo for me.

Avon's and Metz both got around 9 to 10K on the rear. Pirellis were 5 to 6 but really cheap so ran two rears in a row. The E-3s I have on now are at 11k with plenty of tread left. I'm convinced it is E-3s for me unless I decide to try a Mitchelln, I hear they are long lasting but maybe not so good on wet pavement so prob not.

I do not know what a twinkie is. Do I have one on my 05 that needs removing?

The top coat has been applied and now is perfect new pavement. Always a good road now a fantastic one so give it a try.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php?clickkey=50245

This really should be in 2nd gen tec, I copies from on old post. It cost about 50 for the pump and around 20 for the several brass fittings I used to make it work in the same location and with the original hoses. All it takes is a slight bend in each of the mounting brackets and it bolts up to one of the two original holes with an original bolt. I purchased two 1/8" npt to 5/16" hose connectors, a hose to hose union, a 1/8" street 90, a 1/8" close nipple, a 1/8" npt 90 and a short piece of 5/16 hose and two hose clamps. This changes the in/out from each side of the new pump to copy the in/out to be on the same side like the original pump. Only two wires to splice into with what ever connection you choose. Very easy and I'm hopeing this one last longer than the last two OEM pumps. It has the positive shut off so no need to turn off petcock each time you stop. It is the Facet 40171 http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...lickkey=250753

The OEM pump is expensive and it will fail also. On my third time around I went with the one made for airplanes, only about 40 bucks and unlike the Mr Gasket it has the positive shutoff and only needed a few 1/8th inch fittings to turn the in/out lines in the needed directions.

Used one on e-bay for 29 and new not OEM for 90. Or Pinwald has a used one for 48. I purchased a rear wheel with rotor mounted a couple of years ago for 120.

E-Bay has them. 30 bucks or so.

So we have two diff types of links. Lowering and leveling? Did not know lowering ones existed. Not sure why anyone would lower the rear of bike unless they just could not reach the ground. Bike already touches hard parts when leaning into curves and as many say is too low in the rear for good handling in the stock form.

You keep referring to them as lowering links. You may have something different than what I know of but I know them as leveling links and they raise the rear of the bike. Here is a quote from Rick Butler: Jeff, If Yamaha made this change I feel that their designers would be admitting to a change that they did not feel was needed? I think they designed this bike to have that layed back cruiser stance that went along with that fat 150 front tire. And I don't think that they even considered handling characteristics when they initially designed the Venture. In fact I have told Yamaha (more than once) of this need along with the need to change out the 4 piston rear caliper, but I know it fell on deaf ears. Look at the Yamaha picture below and it's readily apparent that the bike is normally sitting low in the rear which gives the bike more rake and trail which makes for a lazy handling bike. When I was trying to talk Allen Hall into producing these links he had the same issue that most of you describe with raising the bike up about 1" at the rear axle because he felt that the natural name for this item would be a "Lift Kit". That's when I suggested "Leveling Links" as an alternative. So if you want a better handling bike, make the change. And if you are really inseamed challenged, lower the front in the triple tree as many folks have done. This does the same basic thing that changing the links does, which is setting the attitude of the bike to level. Hope this helps, Rick

I'm very confused now. I installed leveling links years ago and that raised the rear of the bike not lowered. Now I read you removed the lowering links, is that something deferent or has one of us used incorrect wording? It was my understanding that lowering the front with a smaller tire or raising the rear with leveling links would improve handling.

Those front crash guards are not strong at all.

If you have some soft straps you will find just enough room behind the fairing to go around the forks above the lower triple tree. Take that with your ratchet strap at an angle downward to the side and forward. Strap the front tire into the chock or the front rail of the trailer. That is all I use for short hauls. If wanting added tie downs secure the back of bike to each side preferably lower on the bike. No need to worry about the engine being turned over it is going nowhere. I now use a safety hook that cannot come unhooked, before I would use a piece of duck tape to be sure if the strap became relaxed it still would not come unhooked. Compress forks some but not all the way. Also beware of loose strap ends, also taped or tied down as they can flap and damage paint.

The stock pumps are made by Mitsubusi and I have had two to fail on me. Replaced with the one made for an airplane which has a positive shutoff when key is off. Big thread and write up in here somewhere. It did require some 1/4 inch pipe fittings to get the hoses going the way I needed.

If price truly does not matter here is one for about $250. Antigravity Batteries the lightest most powerful and compact Lithium Motorcycle and Powersports Batteries I use this one from Amazon and think it is plenty good enough and under 90 bucks. Yuasa YUAM620BH YTX20HL-BS Battery

Taller/longer handle bars that will also require SS braided lines. A good GPS unit like a Zumo. More lighting in the rear like under the trunk. Your next set of new tires, I keep them ready and already mounted on an extra set of rims. Aftermarket pipes. Gerbin heated gear.

I would go with Murphy, NC. as it is closer to the Nantahala Forest where some of the best riding to be enjoyed is found. The area between Franklin, Ashville, and Rosman has wonderful roads and little traffic. So unless something is special about Murphy I would get even closer buy staying in Franklin.

If it ain't broke don't fix it!