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RedRider

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  1. RedRider
    You're still under warranty. Take it in to the dealer and let them fix it. Good Luck. RR
  2. RedRider
    Success!!! 2 of the 4 low speed jets were completely clogged with gunk. Started working on the Honda at about 10:30 and by 7:00, I took it for a ride. There were a few items that cost some extra time, I expect to do it again would only take 4 hours. Wil, a couple of items I ran into that caused extra time and/or were not in the instructions. 1) There is a shield on the front of the aluminum airbox that holds some hoses. You will need to unmount (but not remove or disconnect any of the main hoses from) the radiator to get to the mounting screws. You don't need to remove the shield, just unscrew it from the airbox. It is helpful to disconnect the overflow tube and move it out of the way. 2) The airbox is the big aluminum box thing - not the plastic box that holds the filter (although you have to remove this too). There are 8 screws in there that will loosen easiest with a #3 phillips. You will need a couple of different screwdrivers to get these all out. A long standard #3 screwdriver is essential. For a couple of the screws I needed to used a 1/4" ratchet with about 2" of extension and a #3 phillips bit. Once you get the aluminum airbox off, the carbs come out easily. 3) There are a couple of small springs in the sync linkage that will likely come out when you remove the carbs. You will need to be patient reinstalling these spring after you reinstall the carbs. You can get to the locations to put them in place, it is just pretty tight. As a hint for the rear linkage spring - put a dab of grease on your right index finger to hold the spring while you lower it into place. You can then manauver the spring into place with your two index fingers and finally get it set in the proper final location with a small flat blad screwdriver. 4) Use a white marker to mark the orientation of the carb boots before you remove them. They are not straight and really only allow the carbs to be properly seated when they are in their proper orientation. (Advice from Kurt) 5) Wear safety glasses when you are shooting the carb cleaner thru the ports on the carbs. It comes out all over the place. 6) The orific in the slow speed jet is really small. To clean it out, I took apart a multistranded 16 gauge wire and used one of the strands. It probably would have better to use a multistranded 22 or 24 gauge wire, but I didn't have any of that handy. 7) Line the inside of the carb boots with a little oil and the carbs slide in much easier (great hint from Kurt) Overall, it was pretty easy to do. It was a great feeling when the bike fired right up once I got it back together. This is a sceaming little bike. When you hit 7000 or 7500 RPM, it hits a power band that really kicks. It is a little small for me, but a fun bike nonetheless. Kurt, thanks again for your help. And you were right, once you see how the things comes off and goes back on, it is pretty easy to do. This bike is a very maintenance friendly machine. Jeff
  3. RedRider
    It's very likely you could get a US drivers license. Just tell them you swam the Rio Grande to get here and they will set you up. (OK, this is a little 'illegal alien' humor - not recommended to try if you are on an honest visa). RR
  4. RedRider
    Are you bringing over your own bike? Or are you renting here? If you are renting, the rental agent will likely have insurance coverage available for you. RR
  5. RedRider
    I used a scratch awl and a hammer. Placed several layers of a rag over the butt end of the awl so the hammer wouldn't make sparks. It is best to do this with a full gas tank. That way there is not a tank full of fumes, which ignite easier than liquid gasoline. RR
  6. RedRider
    FYI to those that have not changed out their clutches - You can do this without draining the oil. Just put it on the side stand and go at it. You will get a couple of drips come out, but that's about it. Easy to do. RR
  7. RedRider
    There are enough serious replies to this question that I was embarassed to leave this tasteless post. Removed. RR
  8. RedRider
    It HAS a mower deck. That would be really cool to mow the lawn with. RR
  9. RedRider
    The backfiring has nothing to do with octane. It is too rich a mixture and/or out of sync carbs. RR
  10. RedRider
    The best I found for waterproof was a fold top crush bag from Cabella's. I'm sure they have them elsewhere also. They aren't pretty, but they will keep everything inside dry in the harshest rain. And they sqeeze down to whatever size is needed. RR
  11. RedRider
    I will take the easy one first. Get a Progressive Pump from your local HD dealer. Believe it or not (at least in the States), it is less expensive with the HD brand label on it. The pump has a guage on it and is a 'zero letoff' pump. In other words, when you remove it, it doesn't release any air. Should cost about $50 (US). As for the ColorTune, google the term and you get pages of places to buy it. You can purchase it from Morgan (folks that make the CarbTune) for a reasonable price. It comes up when you google 'colortune canada'. If you are tuning both mixture and sync, do the mixture first. RR
  12. RedRider
    Based on the RSV design, there is no clutch adjustment to speak of. It sounds like you may need to change the clutch fluid and bleed the system. I suggest getting a SpeedBleeder for the clutch and it will make changing the fluid much easier. RR
  13. RedRider
    No, it was all verbal. It seemed pretty straightforward. But then, it always does when an expert is explaining it to you. I will try to take some pics when I take them apart this weekend. RR
  14. RedRider
    Kurt, Thank you for your time this afternoon going thru the procedure of removing and cleaning the carbs. With instructions like you provided, I have full confidence a shade tree hack mechanic like me can be successful. You were very generous with your time. I will let you all know how it goes this weekend (first time I will have to work on it). RR
  15. RedRider
    I shot a PM to Kurt. We will see what he has to say. Thanks for the 'knowledge' lead. RR
  16. RedRider
    Yup, that is what it is looking like now. Was hoping not to have to remove the carbs. However, I have a lot of work on the deck that needs done. RR
  17. RedRider
    Wow, really? I have never heard this. Need to go home for lunch and look (I will also check the screws for looseness). Thanks for this interesting piece of information. RR
  18. RedRider
    Won't work with the Venture. The locks are keyed to the ignition. Good thought, though. RR
  19. RedRider
    The smell of gas could just as likely be poor mixture. At MD, do a ColorTune and then a CarbTune. I expect this will take care of both problems. It did mine. RR
  20. RedRider
    A buddy of mine is out of work and is exchanging some carpentry work for motorcycle repair. I hope he is a better carpenter than I am a mechanic. I am hoping someone knows something about this bike since I cannot seem to find a good forum for these. My friend took his '84 Magna 700 out of storage yesterday and could not get it to run without the choke on. If the choke is released, it just dies. It ran fine when it was put away last fall. We do not have a repair manual for the Magna. So far, we changed the plugs, drained the bowls (gas looked good, no gunk), cleaned the air filter, and fixed a few unrelated wiring issues (stator connector was completely cooked). Of the old plugs that were removed, 3 looked OK, one (front right) was wet. I was not able to find mixture adjustment screws to see if they were out of whack. Questions: 1) It appears there are sync adjustments on the linkage between the carbs. 2 between the front 2 carbs, and one between the rears. Is that what these screws are? I assume the rear right carb is the 'master' that the other 3 sync to - is this correct? 2) If these are the sync adjustments, where do I hook up the vacuum gage to measure the relative vacuum? I have a Morgan Carbtune that will read 4 carbs at once. 3) What would cause the bike to run while under choke, and die immediately when choke is removed? We ran it long enough to warm up. 4) How do you adjust the mixture in the carbs? Thanks for your help. So far, I find the Magna to be an interesting bike with some very nice design features (love the hinged gas tank with the support rod). RR
  21. RedRider
    Send it to yourself as an email. It will offer an option to reduce the size for the email. Select 'Yes' and send it to yourself. Post the received email picture. RR
  22. RedRider
    Good Luck. RR
  23. RedRider
    Red fluid is usually ATF fluid. There have been folks that use ATF for shock oil. Not sure what color stock Yamaha shock fluid is. RR
  24. RedRider
    And even though it is new, and the dealer should know how to sync the carbs, many do not. I notice you are in Indiana. You may want to skip over to Oberlein, OH for the Maintenance Day and get the carbs sync'd properly. There are several threads on here that talk about it. RR
  25. RedRider
    P'd for 2 last night - wasn't sure which color I wanted so ordered one of each. RR
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