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Everything posted by RedRider
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It's the difference between Twiggy and Ellie McPhearson. They're both female, but ... I'm just sayin'. RR
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Steering Head Bearings
RedRider replied to V7Goose's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Standard wheel bearing grease will work fine. To clean the current bearings, just wash them with Naptha or gasoline to get the old grease out. Inspect the rollers and races for pits or lines. If you see lines, check to see if you can feel them, or just see the light deflect off them. If you can feel the lines, replace the bearings. If you can't feel the lines, don't worry about it. To grease the bearings properly, put a tsp. of grease in your palm and press the large end of the bearing into it. You are trying to force the grease under the cage and between the rollers from the large end. Do this until you see some grease coming out the small end. There is no real need to fill the chamber with grease. There is so little motion in the steering bearings, the grease never liquifies and will stay in the bearing. After re-installation when re-tightening the bearings, move the wheel back and forth while tightening. This allows the roller to seat against the back rib and align with the race. If you don't do this, you WILL get extra slop in the setup once you tighten everything up and then start moving the wheel. Was in engineering for 7 years at Timken. This is from the Service Manual. RR -
This occasion, of course, brings out the Redneck type jokes. What has 50 legs and 7 teeth? Front row of a Willie Nelson concert. Enjoy. RR
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The clutch is considered a wear item (like brakes and tires) and is not covered under warranty. The clutch spring often seems to be the culprit. If you take it in, the dealer will change out the complete clutch for about $400. If you did it yourself, you will likely find the friction disks are all within spec. If you have run it for a while with it slipping, you may have blue'd the steels and they will need replaced. For the money, do it all yourself - it is really easy. I have also had this problem. Will be going with a PCW kit this winter. RR
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They don't seem to make one of these carriers that will accomodate my St. Bernard. Guess I will need to get a hack. RR
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Being a small business owner, to see on a resume' that you trained your subordinates to be self sufficient - effectively eliminating your role - would be a huge plus. Don't sugar coat this while looking for your next role. A manager that is more concerned about improving his workers than protecting his turf is highly sought after in any market. Keep your head up, network, and find something better. Good luck. RR
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+1 on Warm and Safe. Get the Heat-Troller with it so you can adjust the temp. They get warm. Gloves and jacket liner are all that are needed. You legs and feet stay warm just with standard covering (lined riding pants, wool socks). The only thing below the waist that gets cold is your knees if you don't have wind deflectors. I doubled up the armor in the knees of my lined riding pants and they were fine. Riden in below freezing weather with this setup and was relatively comfortable. The snow wasn't so good, but I was warm. RR
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An aux fuel tank is really easy to install on this bike. My tank is mounted on a board (cut to shape) which installs on the pillion seat location. The seat is removed. The tank could just as easily fit into the trunk (if it is a correct size, obviously). The tank shown is 3 gallons. The GW mount is for a receiver hitch style mount. Something custom could be made for the Venture, but you would also need to move the rear lights and license plate. Here are some pictures of how mine is mounted and installed. The fuel line had the first elbow cut out and replaced with a brass 'T'. It is plugged when not in use. You can find this at any autoparts store. I wrapped the line with split electrical cord protector covered with duct tape. This is to prevent rubbing, although after running it, it doesn't really need it. My main tank also has been modified by punching some holes in the filler neck. This allows you to fill the tank to the top without the 1/2 gallon worth of air for expansion. Therefore, I usually run about 30 miles on the main tank and then switch to the aux tank. To switch, just turn the main petcock to 'off' and turn on the ball valve for the aux tank. When the aux tank runs dry, turn on the main tank petcock and shut off the aux valve. Run til you hit reserve. This keeps the gas gauge active and accurate. Let me know if you have any questions. RR
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The advantage of the Progressive Pump is that it is a zero let-off pump. Therefore, once you reach the desired pressure, it will not let air escape when you take the pump off. This is especially important with the front shocks since they hold so little air. The HD version is, indeed, less expensive. Who'd figger. RR
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17th confirmed bird strike of the year
RedRider replied to Seaking's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Top 10 list of logical answers to hitting so many birds: 10) Fairing whiskers make the birds think you are a cat 9) Changed out the rear end and installed a 'worm' drive 8) Your head and helmet are small enough to look like a beetle 7) Your jacket is the color of a mating male bird 6) You installed a back nest instead of a back rest 5) Your left hand looks like it is hold a 'clutch' of eggs 4) Your combover is flapping in the breeze and looks like a nightcrawler 3) Your clutch housing chirp mimics a bird call 2) The birds think it is silly you have a cassette deck And the number 1 reason you hit so many birds - 1) A Gen2 is a 'chick' magnet Ok, I need to get back to work. RR -
Easy - Back rest and raising links. Zumo wired in with the Buddy Rich cable is a close 3rd. This allows me to use a phone while riding - I can then take the bike on business trip which increases my riding time. RR
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I have also had the tailbone pain, but usually after about 2-3000 miles into a concentrated ride. Done several 1000+ mile days and will attest to the AirHawk cushion to help out. This is with the older, non-pillow top seats. Last year I had Rick Butler redo my seat and it helps tremendously. I also picked up a Corbin to try to get the seat to a 5000 miles seat, but it didn't help. The Corbin has never given me any trouble with the tailbone, but the sitbones will begin hurting after 4-500 miles. The most comfort I have found is the Rick Butler mod with a sheepskin. If the economy picks up, I will be investing in a Russel Day Long seat. That seems to be the choice among the Iron Butt long distance riders. However, the $600 isn't in the budget just yet. If you are interested in a Corbin, I have one that I would be willing to sell - including the matching backrest. It is for both the driver and passenger with the integrated backrest. It is in great shape and was purchased from another member here who upgrade to the RDL. Some folks love them, some don't. Welcome to the family. RR
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All hail the speed bleeder
RedRider replied to kyle's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Don't tell the wife it is so easy, or you will be stuck with it always being a less than 2 beer job. If you start on Sunday afternoon (and have a TV in the shop/garage) you could theoretically extend the bleeding to both afternoon NFL games and a whole 6 pack. "Brake bleeding is for safety reasons - really, it is dear" RR -
In Wisconsin the minimum age is 8. The best explanation of this age limit is that this is the age when a child can maintain balance if they fall asleep. Just as young children fall out of bed when they are sleeping, but adults generally don't. Laws, unfortunately, have to be written for the least common denominator. A parent, or friend, can take a child for a cross country (or across state) trip. This could be very dangerous if the young child fell asleep. I don't believe the target of this law is to prevent a short joy ride of a few blocks with a grandkid. Although, that would be technically illegal under this law. Just my $0.02. RR
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Check with Parrot interfaces. I have it installed in my truck and it wires into the radio for the speakers. When a call comes in, or I want to make one, the sound comes over the radio speakers. Bluetooth to a Blackberry currently, but it worked just as well with my Motorola Razor. RR
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I have the Warm and Safe jacket liner and gloves along with the dual Heat-Troller. Works great. Have been snowed on a couple of times and just kept going. RR
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Greg, A loan for an investment property is not the same as a mortgage. There are usually different interest rates and terms than standard occupied home mortgages. Go chat with the loan officer at your bank to find out how they treat this. If may be less expensive to do this deal with OPM (other people's money). Although, not incurring additional debt has its own rewards. RR
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Greg, I would suggest a couple of things: 1) Hit the library. There are many books that will outline how rental properties should be accounted for. 2) Buy a couple of hours of time from a real estate and/or a tax attorney. This will be a cheap investment to protect your $55k and future income. Dealing with the taxes properly make a big difference in the ROI calculation. As of now, capital gains tax rates are lower than income tax rates (assuming you have a decent income level - if you didn't, you wouldn't likely be able to pay cash for this property). Therefore, you want a strategy that will maximize the long term capital gains and minimize the immediate income return. These items are all on paper and it doesn't mean you can't make some decent cash flow with the property. Good luck. RR
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Always up for a good motorcycle read. Next in line. Thanks, RR
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3 Bruised Ribs, A Sprained Wrist, and my Pride
RedRider replied to E-Fishin-C's topic in Watering Hole
Charlie, What these great washed folks don't understand is that scratches and dings are the farkles of choice for the KLR. A KLR without dings is just a Garage Queen or even worse, an Asphault A*****e!! Other than the pain, it looks like you had a great time. I might suggest Continental TKC70 DOT knobbies. Also, if you are going off road, you might want to put the stock windscreen back on. It is less expensive to replace and easier to get over when you crash. Oh, and good on you showing the proper wearing of riding gear - ATGATT (All The Gear, All The Time). Your little get-off could have been much worse without the proper protection. Wisdom comes with age and/or experience. RR -
Banging noise in fairing
RedRider replied to sldunker's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Yup - Do you hear or feel a 'click' with semi-hard front braking? If you have a lift, put the bike up and then gently lift the front tire. You will know if it is the bearings. You can also use the bounce test while on the lift. Set the tire straight and then let it fall to one side. It should bounce back and then stay. RR -
Just a couple of quick thoughts. Is the Kill switch on? If so, check for continuity in this. Also, there is a sidestand safety switch. Check continuity on that. Fuses? Check the easy stuff first. Good luck. RR
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Both Avons and E3's are a big step up from the D404's. They both handle better, and will both last considerably longer. Beware of the D404's. You have likely maxed out the life on the rear. You should get 12k to 15k miles (and maybe more) out of the Avons or E3's. Have run all 3. Will never run a D404 again due to short life. Avons were great. Ran it to the core in about 16k miles. Have about 3000 miles on the E3 and really like it. Still have the D404 on the front but will upgrade to the E3 front when it wears out. RR
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