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RedRider

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Everything posted by RedRider

  1. RedRider
    You have a smart dealer. Lucky man. RR
  2. RedRider
    Craigr, I don't think I would use the petcock T if you were using an aux fuel pump. I have placed my aux tank on the pillion seat location (bolted to the grab handles) and only gravity feed. This, obviously won't work riding 2-up. I believe, to use an aux fuel pump you will need to either plumb in after the bike pump or use it to fill the main tank. Does anybody know what happens to the bike fuel pump when the main tank runs dry? Does it shut off or keep running dry? If it keeps running, you may need to put in a cut off switch for the bike pump if you tap into the line after the pump. Another option is to have a tank made that will fit in the trunk. There is an access hole in the right front bottom of the trunk (there is a rubber plug in it) that would allow a line to emerge. You would still need to deal with the vent drain (should be easy) and the grounding wire (should also be easy). There may be some tanks made for racing (cars) that might fit. If I remember correctly, Summit is a brand name for one manufacturer. RR
  3. RedRider
    DR, +1 on the taller/wider windshield. I am 6'4" and the bigger shield keeps the wind from buffeting my helmet. I can still see over it, but it is certainly easier on the neck for longer rides. I also get the wind in the chest when extending my legs. However, haven't found it to be a concern - for me. I've heard complains for those with long whiskers. There is even a guy that developed a set of flaps on the chest pockets to deflect this wind. Don't have the wind deflectors, but will follow this thread to see other's input. Might be a good idea. RR
  4. RedRider
    Craigr, LD riding is addicting (at least it is for me). I don't care why you want to do it - just go for it. As another positive for an aux fuel tank, this past April I took a ride from WI, to Texas, to Las Vegas, and back to WI via Wyoming. While heading across SD, I had about a 30 mph headwind - right in my teeth. While trying to travel the speed limit of 75, my mileage was down under 30 mpg. It would have taken me all day to get across that state without the aux tank. Have you looked at doing any of the LD rallies? The Minnesota 1000 is run out of Minneapolis, the Utah 1088 is run out of SLC, and I believe they ran the Dusty Butt (1000 miles/24 hrs/all off road) in NE. Check the IBA website for links to many more. If you like distance running, they are a lot of fun. Good luck putting this together. Post pictures of how it turned out. FYI: You will need a fuel pump of some kind if the aux tank is below the current fuel pump. I wonder if you would be able to use the vent fitting in the main tank as an entry point for fuel from the aux to the main tank? RR
  5. RedRider
    Red, There has been a variation of this done. A veteran Iron Butt competitor Morris Kruemcke, designed the infamous "pee-tube" on his bike which permits him to relieve himself without stopping. He has made trips of nearly 1200 miles without touching his feet tothe ground. (from 'Going the Extra Mile' by Ron Ayers - a book about LD riding and the Iron Butt Rally). There was another guy that used this technique recently to travel cross country non-stop. He rode a GW with a trailer. He set up the trailer with multiple fuel tanks and was able to ride from San Diego to Jacksonville without stopping. That's just nuts - but true. Basically, he was riding a GW pulling a bomb. RR
  6. RedRider
    D404 - Never again. Ran thru 3 of them in only 5000 miles each. The last 2 installs were emergency replacements - very expensive (they were all that were in stock at the time). Prefer the Avon Venom - got about 14,000 miles - or the Dunlop Elite 3. Have about 5000 miles on my first one and it still looks new. These are all on the rear. My D404 has lasted about 15000 on the front and still looks OK. Will be changing that out to a E3 next spring. RR
  7. RedRider
    I would be surprised if it was covered under warranty. I would think it would be considered a wear item like tires, battery, clutch, etc. +1 on the Silverstar. Better light, less expensive than Yamaha OEM, and easy to change. Keep your old one in your tool bag for emergency replacement on the road. RR
  8. RedRider
    Dang, there's another one just above me. That's hilarious. RR
  9. RedRider
    Another great winter project and something for next year's Central WI Maintenance Day!! Now, we need to get this linked up with the Wagner grill guy and get them painted to match. The possibilities will grow like a weed! Outstanding that you are putting this together. Thank you. RR
  10. RedRider
    Red, Yes, that is the law for any stand alone gas containers. Red for gas, blue for kerosene, and yellow for diesel (I think). If a container is (semi-) permanently mounted on a vehicle, color doesn't matter. Otherwise, the riders of slower bikes would be in trouble with their main tank. However, you and I, riding the fastest RED bikes - with red tanks - will be OK either way. RR
  11. RedRider
    - I would prefer to have the cap vented. However, I bought this used and it didn't have the vent. The new ones do. If it is hot out, I run 15 or 20 miles on each tank to allow extra expansion room before I switch to the aux tank only. My tank also does not have the electrical ground connection. This is another thing I would add if I were to do it again. Both the vent and the ground connection are required by the IBA (Iron Butt Association) for use in sanctioned rallies. - Yes, the T is added right after the petcock. There is a 90 degree bend about 3" from the petcock. I cut that bend out and replaced it with a T. This is before the pump. - I believe you could leave them both ON and be ok. However, I am not sure how it would effect the levels in the main tank and, therefore, the gas gauge accuracy. The advantage of running the aux tank first, is that once it is done, you have the known range of your main tank (and reserve). I got this tank to run in LD rallies (haven't used it yet - see item 1). It is important to know your exact range since stopping too often takes extra time. Similarly, not stopping often enough takes more time. If you intend to run in any LD rallies, check the IBA website for rules on fuel capacity. Not sure if there is an increase for a trike (there is for a hack), but a standard 2 wheeled bike can carry no more than 11 gallons. The stock tank is 6, so a 4 gallon would work fine. RR
  12. RedRider
    http://www.tourtank.com/index.html Source for tanks. RR
  13. RedRider
    To be fair - SSI is there to keep to a minimum level of sustainable income. It is not a disability insurance program in the true sense of the term. If there is additional income, the SSI is reduced or eliminated - as it should be. Take for instance a carpenter who losses the use of his hand. He is eligible for SSI. However, if he gets training in another field - such as a truck driver - and can make a decent income, why should the gov't continue to pay SSI. Agreed, your problem is a different and difficult situation with the serious injury and illnesses. However, the same priciple applies. It isn't pretty, but nothing that deals with giving away other peoples money ever is. Good luck in finding out what is right. Sounds like a difficult situation no matter how the money issues are resolved. RR
  14. RedRider
    Looks great. Well done. RR
  15. RedRider
    Airhawk + Rick Butler Mod. Done a couple of Iron Butts with it. RR
  16. RedRider
    Many of the HD's are not setup to be long distance riding machines. You try to ride a Fat Boy for 500 or 600 miles per day. No thanks. However, if you want to ride on some cool roads away from home, and that is your only bike, you either take a week to get there or trailer it. Not my cup of tea, but it makes sense. RR
  17. RedRider
    It's the difference between Twiggy and Ellie McPhearson. They're both female, but ... I'm just sayin'. RR
  18. RedRider
    Standard wheel bearing grease will work fine. To clean the current bearings, just wash them with Naptha or gasoline to get the old grease out. Inspect the rollers and races for pits or lines. If you see lines, check to see if you can feel them, or just see the light deflect off them. If you can feel the lines, replace the bearings. If you can't feel the lines, don't worry about it. To grease the bearings properly, put a tsp. of grease in your palm and press the large end of the bearing into it. You are trying to force the grease under the cage and between the rollers from the large end. Do this until you see some grease coming out the small end. There is no real need to fill the chamber with grease. There is so little motion in the steering bearings, the grease never liquifies and will stay in the bearing. After re-installation when re-tightening the bearings, move the wheel back and forth while tightening. This allows the roller to seat against the back rib and align with the race. If you don't do this, you WILL get extra slop in the setup once you tighten everything up and then start moving the wheel. Was in engineering for 7 years at Timken. This is from the Service Manual. RR
  19. RedRider
    This occasion, of course, brings out the Redneck type jokes. What has 50 legs and 7 teeth? Front row of a Willie Nelson concert. Enjoy. RR
  20. RedRider
    The clutch is considered a wear item (like brakes and tires) and is not covered under warranty. The clutch spring often seems to be the culprit. If you take it in, the dealer will change out the complete clutch for about $400. If you did it yourself, you will likely find the friction disks are all within spec. If you have run it for a while with it slipping, you may have blue'd the steels and they will need replaced. For the money, do it all yourself - it is really easy. I have also had this problem. Will be going with a PCW kit this winter. RR
  21. RedRider
    They don't seem to make one of these carriers that will accomodate my St. Bernard. Guess I will need to get a hack. RR
  22. RedRider
    Being a small business owner, to see on a resume' that you trained your subordinates to be self sufficient - effectively eliminating your role - would be a huge plus. Don't sugar coat this while looking for your next role. A manager that is more concerned about improving his workers than protecting his turf is highly sought after in any market. Keep your head up, network, and find something better. Good luck. RR
  23. RedRider
    +1 on Warm and Safe. Get the Heat-Troller with it so you can adjust the temp. They get warm. Gloves and jacket liner are all that are needed. You legs and feet stay warm just with standard covering (lined riding pants, wool socks). The only thing below the waist that gets cold is your knees if you don't have wind deflectors. I doubled up the armor in the knees of my lined riding pants and they were fine. Riden in below freezing weather with this setup and was relatively comfortable. The snow wasn't so good, but I was warm. RR
  24. RedRider
    An aux fuel tank is really easy to install on this bike. My tank is mounted on a board (cut to shape) which installs on the pillion seat location. The seat is removed. The tank could just as easily fit into the trunk (if it is a correct size, obviously). The tank shown is 3 gallons. The GW mount is for a receiver hitch style mount. Something custom could be made for the Venture, but you would also need to move the rear lights and license plate. Here are some pictures of how mine is mounted and installed. The fuel line had the first elbow cut out and replaced with a brass 'T'. It is plugged when not in use. You can find this at any autoparts store. I wrapped the line with split electrical cord protector covered with duct tape. This is to prevent rubbing, although after running it, it doesn't really need it. My main tank also has been modified by punching some holes in the filler neck. This allows you to fill the tank to the top without the 1/2 gallon worth of air for expansion. Therefore, I usually run about 30 miles on the main tank and then switch to the aux tank. To switch, just turn the main petcock to 'off' and turn on the ball valve for the aux tank. When the aux tank runs dry, turn on the main tank petcock and shut off the aux valve. Run til you hit reserve. This keeps the gas gauge active and accurate. Let me know if you have any questions. RR
  25. RedRider
    The advantage of the Progressive Pump is that it is a zero let-off pump. Therefore, once you reach the desired pressure, it will not let air escape when you take the pump off. This is especially important with the front shocks since they hold so little air. The HD version is, indeed, less expensive. Who'd figger. RR
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