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RedRider

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Everything posted by RedRider

  1. I'm in for a Gen 2. Keep us up to date with availability. Great idea. Thanks for putting this together. RR
  2. Nice addition to the Coolant Change Knowledge Base. Thanks. RR
  3. Drink a little Seafoam. That will loosen it all up. Good luck next week. Hope it turns out to be nothing. RR
  4. That deal was a mistake by the vendor. It is no longer there. Several of us took advantage of it though:smile5: - me included. You may want to ask the service manager at the local Yamaha shop if they will swap shims with you if you need to change. Some will, some won't. You will need a special tool. Good luck. RR
  5. I suspect they are to help keep the front brakes quite. They have a tendency to squeal. Put some brake pad lube (any auto parts store) on the back - only on the back - to eliminate the squeal and the need for the shims. Or, just don't worry about the squealing. It doesn't hurt anything. RR
  6. Do you tow that behind the trusty KLR? RR
  7. Not sure it would be the battery. The lights would dim when trying to start. However, it might be a good idea to just jump it from a known good battery (car) just to confirm. RR
  8. Welcome to the family. The backfire is caused when the throttle is continuing to feed gas into the carbs (and into the cylinders) while it is not running. When you turn back on the kill switch, the bike restarts in immediately ignites the raw gas in the system. Yup, big boom. If you accidentally hit the kill switch (you will get used to not hitting it), take you hand off the throttle before you turn it back on. RR
  9. My guess is that you have some corrosion on the start button that is not allowing good contact. The tapping sound you are hearing is likely the fuel pump. Take apart the throttle side controls and see what the contacts look like. Take an Ohm meter to test for continuity of the button. While you have it apart, put some dielectric grease on all the contacts in there (that you can get to). Hopefully, that is all this is. The other option is wiring to the key switch mechanism or the switch itself. Do a search for complete information on this in the 2nd Gen Tech Forum. Oh yeah, and welcome to the family. RR
  10. You have a smart dealer. Lucky man. RR
  11. Craigr, I don't think I would use the petcock T if you were using an aux fuel pump. I have placed my aux tank on the pillion seat location (bolted to the grab handles) and only gravity feed. This, obviously won't work riding 2-up. I believe, to use an aux fuel pump you will need to either plumb in after the bike pump or use it to fill the main tank. Does anybody know what happens to the bike fuel pump when the main tank runs dry? Does it shut off or keep running dry? If it keeps running, you may need to put in a cut off switch for the bike pump if you tap into the line after the pump. Another option is to have a tank made that will fit in the trunk. There is an access hole in the right front bottom of the trunk (there is a rubber plug in it) that would allow a line to emerge. You would still need to deal with the vent drain (should be easy) and the grounding wire (should also be easy). There may be some tanks made for racing (cars) that might fit. If I remember correctly, Summit is a brand name for one manufacturer. RR
  12. DR, +1 on the taller/wider windshield. I am 6'4" and the bigger shield keeps the wind from buffeting my helmet. I can still see over it, but it is certainly easier on the neck for longer rides. I also get the wind in the chest when extending my legs. However, haven't found it to be a concern - for me. I've heard complains for those with long whiskers. There is even a guy that developed a set of flaps on the chest pockets to deflect this wind. Don't have the wind deflectors, but will follow this thread to see other's input. Might be a good idea. RR
  13. Craigr, LD riding is addicting (at least it is for me). I don't care why you want to do it - just go for it. As another positive for an aux fuel tank, this past April I took a ride from WI, to Texas, to Las Vegas, and back to WI via Wyoming. While heading across SD, I had about a 30 mph headwind - right in my teeth. While trying to travel the speed limit of 75, my mileage was down under 30 mpg. It would have taken me all day to get across that state without the aux tank. Have you looked at doing any of the LD rallies? The Minnesota 1000 is run out of Minneapolis, the Utah 1088 is run out of SLC, and I believe they ran the Dusty Butt (1000 miles/24 hrs/all off road) in NE. Check the IBA website for links to many more. If you like distance running, they are a lot of fun. Good luck putting this together. Post pictures of how it turned out. FYI: You will need a fuel pump of some kind if the aux tank is below the current fuel pump. I wonder if you would be able to use the vent fitting in the main tank as an entry point for fuel from the aux to the main tank? RR
  14. Red, There has been a variation of this done. A veteran Iron Butt competitor Morris Kruemcke, designed the infamous "pee-tube" on his bike which permits him to relieve himself without stopping. He has made trips of nearly 1200 miles without touching his feet tothe ground. (from 'Going the Extra Mile' by Ron Ayers - a book about LD riding and the Iron Butt Rally). There was another guy that used this technique recently to travel cross country non-stop. He rode a GW with a trailer. He set up the trailer with multiple fuel tanks and was able to ride from San Diego to Jacksonville without stopping. That's just nuts - but true. Basically, he was riding a GW pulling a bomb. RR
  15. D404 - Never again. Ran thru 3 of them in only 5000 miles each. The last 2 installs were emergency replacements - very expensive (they were all that were in stock at the time). Prefer the Avon Venom - got about 14,000 miles - or the Dunlop Elite 3. Have about 5000 miles on my first one and it still looks new. These are all on the rear. My D404 has lasted about 15000 on the front and still looks OK. Will be changing that out to a E3 next spring. RR
  16. I would be surprised if it was covered under warranty. I would think it would be considered a wear item like tires, battery, clutch, etc. +1 on the Silverstar. Better light, less expensive than Yamaha OEM, and easy to change. Keep your old one in your tool bag for emergency replacement on the road. RR
  17. Dang, there's another one just above me. That's hilarious. RR
  18. Another great winter project and something for next year's Central WI Maintenance Day!! Now, we need to get this linked up with the Wagner grill guy and get them painted to match. The possibilities will grow like a weed! Outstanding that you are putting this together. Thank you. RR
  19. Red, Yes, that is the law for any stand alone gas containers. Red for gas, blue for kerosene, and yellow for diesel (I think). If a container is (semi-) permanently mounted on a vehicle, color doesn't matter. Otherwise, the riders of slower bikes would be in trouble with their main tank. However, you and I, riding the fastest RED bikes - with red tanks - will be OK either way. RR
  20. - I would prefer to have the cap vented. However, I bought this used and it didn't have the vent. The new ones do. If it is hot out, I run 15 or 20 miles on each tank to allow extra expansion room before I switch to the aux tank only. My tank also does not have the electrical ground connection. This is another thing I would add if I were to do it again. Both the vent and the ground connection are required by the IBA (Iron Butt Association) for use in sanctioned rallies. - Yes, the T is added right after the petcock. There is a 90 degree bend about 3" from the petcock. I cut that bend out and replaced it with a T. This is before the pump. - I believe you could leave them both ON and be ok. However, I am not sure how it would effect the levels in the main tank and, therefore, the gas gauge accuracy. The advantage of running the aux tank first, is that once it is done, you have the known range of your main tank (and reserve). I got this tank to run in LD rallies (haven't used it yet - see item 1). It is important to know your exact range since stopping too often takes extra time. Similarly, not stopping often enough takes more time. If you intend to run in any LD rallies, check the IBA website for rules on fuel capacity. Not sure if there is an increase for a trike (there is for a hack), but a standard 2 wheeled bike can carry no more than 11 gallons. The stock tank is 6, so a 4 gallon would work fine. RR
  21. http://www.tourtank.com/index.html Source for tanks. RR
  22. To be fair - SSI is there to keep to a minimum level of sustainable income. It is not a disability insurance program in the true sense of the term. If there is additional income, the SSI is reduced or eliminated - as it should be. Take for instance a carpenter who losses the use of his hand. He is eligible for SSI. However, if he gets training in another field - such as a truck driver - and can make a decent income, why should the gov't continue to pay SSI. Agreed, your problem is a different and difficult situation with the serious injury and illnesses. However, the same priciple applies. It isn't pretty, but nothing that deals with giving away other peoples money ever is. Good luck in finding out what is right. Sounds like a difficult situation no matter how the money issues are resolved. RR
  23. Looks great. Well done. RR
  24. Airhawk + Rick Butler Mod. Done a couple of Iron Butts with it. RR
  25. Many of the HD's are not setup to be long distance riding machines. You try to ride a Fat Boy for 500 or 600 miles per day. No thanks. However, if you want to ride on some cool roads away from home, and that is your only bike, you either take a week to get there or trailer it. Not my cup of tea, but it makes sense. RR
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