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RedRider

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Everything posted by RedRider

  1. FYI - Groaning is not neccessarily a precurser to failure. It just groans until the shock lube gets onto the seal. There is a fix for this - injecting ATF into the Shrader valve or something. Do a search in the tech forum. Mine has groaned when cold for 4 or 5 years and 50,000+ miles (70,000 miles on it currently). Still works great though (fingers crossed). Mike, thanks for doing this. I know there has been reports of many shock failures. Putting together the data will help the Yama rep see the light - hopefully. RR
  2. Jeff, If you can get it up here sometime this winter, we can work on these difficulties in the heated mancave. I'll just need to move my son's drum set out of the way to make room. RR
  3. I have had this happen with my bike in the garage (2000 RSV). EVERY TIME I found the problem was due to my not turning the key all the way off. Since it is in the garage, I leave the key in it. There is an ACC location between Run and Off. If the key position is left there, it will drain the battery. Make sure to pull the key out (at least part way) to ensure the ignition switch is in the Off position and the battery problem will likely be taken care of. Operator error rather than humidity or concrete. RR
  4. I have bought from Diamond R and New Enough. Both are excellent companies to work with. Specifically, New Enough has the best customer service of any internet company I have ever worked with. Diamond R shipped quickly and accurately. I highly recommend both of them. Haven't had any dealings with MotorcycleSuperstore - yet. RR
  5. Don't be overly alarmed at the 'box of rocks' from the starter. Sounds awful, but continues to work. There is a kit available to repair it that adds a washer or something. I didn't do it with mine and never had any trouble. Great bike. RR
  6. Yup. Fortunately, it doesn't need done very often. RR
  7. The GSA (or Adventure version) has 50/50 tires, a larger 8.7 gal gas tank (400+ mile range), full protective crash bars, metal skid plate, longer suspension travel, spoke wheels, standard heated grips, more ground clearance, etc. The metal box panniers are certainly function over form. You can put a lot of stuff in them. The ones my Dad have are the Jesse bags. You can open the tops and stand in them. Very rugged. If you dump the bike in some nasty stuff and bend them, just take a rock and pound them back out until they are functional. The whole key in adventure riding is to get where you want to go, and to get home. Scratches, dings, and broken bits are bonus points. My Dad doesn't ride off road and (to my knowledge) has never dropped his bike. However, since he didn't start riding until he was 63 years old, he is doing OK. It's a great story how he started. All my fault. RR
  8. My Dad has one of these and it is really a sweet bike. LOTS of power, smooth, quiet, and comfortable. With the proper setup, it handles any terrain well (for a 500+ lb bike). There is a reason this is the most popular bike among the Long Distance riding crowd. With an upgraded seat and a passenger backrest, it's not too bad for the pillion rider either. Not the laid back comfort of the RSV, but pretty good. And an interesting mechanical note, it is about an hour job to check and adjust the valves on this, but it is an all day effort to change out the clutch. Alternator puts out 720W (over 50 Amps) so you can add all the electronics and heat you want. 50+ MPG, 6 gears, 105 HP, 85 ftlbs of torque, 0 to 62 mph in 3.3 sec. Here is a picture of my Dad with his GS on top of Mt. Washington. Quite the machine. I will also have one of these someday...someday.... RR
  9. Greg, Thanks for the forward. Filled out. Anyone collecting additional information to achieve accurate motorcycle behavior data is OK in my book. Even provided info if they want to wire me up. How'd football end up? RR
  10. Looked good until that last picture. RR
  11. Have posted an ad for my Corbin seat with backrest. I am having trouble getting the pictures to link up, so I will post them here. OK, figured out the picture posting in the Classifieds. They are there also now. RR
  12. There will be others that will jump in here with more experience with first gen clutches. However, rest assured, clutch work is fairly easy and requires no special tools. RR
  13. If someone wants to install the CD player, I have a pdf copy of the installation instructions. Shoot me a PM and I will forward them to you. RR
  14. Another thing to look at is the crank sensor. My son's Saturn had the same issue once it got hot. RR
  15. As for plug kits, I have two. The one I have used is from Wally World. It consists of a reamer, a plug inserter, and a pack of stick strings. I am running on a plug in my Suburban right now. It works great. I carry this on my KLR. The other kit is a Stop and Go kit. It is basically the same thing but also includes a CO2 inflater. Since I now carry a small compressor on trips, I have never had to use the CO2 inflater (nor have I ever plugged a MC tire). If my tires go flat it's because I wore them out. This is the one I carry on my Venture. Now that I think about it, I probably ought to switch the kits between the bikes since the only the Venture is wired for the compressor. RR
  16. Check with your local Honda shop for the E3. They will likely have it in stock. It is used on the Goldwing. And yes, when the Avons get down to the wear bars, they go from 'worn' to 'worn out' in a hurry. I really like the E3. RR
  17. I'm in for a Gen 2. Keep us up to date with availability. Great idea. Thanks for putting this together. RR
  18. Nice addition to the Coolant Change Knowledge Base. Thanks. RR
  19. Drink a little Seafoam. That will loosen it all up. Good luck next week. Hope it turns out to be nothing. RR
  20. That deal was a mistake by the vendor. It is no longer there. Several of us took advantage of it though:smile5: - me included. You may want to ask the service manager at the local Yamaha shop if they will swap shims with you if you need to change. Some will, some won't. You will need a special tool. Good luck. RR
  21. I suspect they are to help keep the front brakes quite. They have a tendency to squeal. Put some brake pad lube (any auto parts store) on the back - only on the back - to eliminate the squeal and the need for the shims. Or, just don't worry about the squealing. It doesn't hurt anything. RR
  22. Do you tow that behind the trusty KLR? RR
  23. Not sure it would be the battery. The lights would dim when trying to start. However, it might be a good idea to just jump it from a known good battery (car) just to confirm. RR
  24. Welcome to the family. The backfire is caused when the throttle is continuing to feed gas into the carbs (and into the cylinders) while it is not running. When you turn back on the kill switch, the bike restarts in immediately ignites the raw gas in the system. Yup, big boom. If you accidentally hit the kill switch (you will get used to not hitting it), take you hand off the throttle before you turn it back on. RR
  25. My guess is that you have some corrosion on the start button that is not allowing good contact. The tapping sound you are hearing is likely the fuel pump. Take apart the throttle side controls and see what the contacts look like. Take an Ohm meter to test for continuity of the button. While you have it apart, put some dielectric grease on all the contacts in there (that you can get to). Hopefully, that is all this is. The other option is wiring to the key switch mechanism or the switch itself. Do a search for complete information on this in the 2nd Gen Tech Forum. Oh yeah, and welcome to the family. RR
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