RedRider

I've used a LittleLite for illuminating the tankbag map/instructions during night time riding in LD rallies. Works great and can be wired into the 12V. RR

It does seem to be a rotary argument. RR

What I could tell of these articles (not going to pay for the complete download) is they apply to the complete crankshaft/multi-piston engine inertia. My comment was directed at the very specific scenario presented: I've had to do the inertia calculations for a system similar to a crank/piston (actually a Scotch yoke). Single piston. No reflected inertia when all is lined up. All in good fun. RR

I'll jump in here for this one. The reflected moment of inertia (to the crankshaft) of the piston and rod have to stop and reverse direction is ...... ZERO! There is no moment when all the components are lined up. Therefore, no moment of inertia either. RR

Fool, Stop it!!!!! I just got a new-to-me bike that needs the tires scrubbed in!! No snow until after Christmas!!! Arrrrggghhh! Why do I live up here? RR

2009 BMW R1200GS Adventure Flew down to Melbourne, FL on Friday and rode it home to Fond du Lac. Made it in time for dinner Sunday (along with a stop in Charleston, SC and Fort Wayne, IN to see family). This is intended to take over the Long Distance duties from the Venture. The Venture is being retired to trips with the wife. Let the farkling begin! RR

Good luck tomorrow. Look forward to seeing pictures a smiling new US Citizen tomorrow. RR

I think all the major items have been covered: - Rear shock - Mine went out at about 100k miles. Replaced with a Hagan for about $400. - Fuel pump - The points arc. Replacement points are available for about $30. My original is still working fine at 155k miles - Ignition switch - Routed all loads around the switch early. Not had an issue. - Parking lot speed heaviness - Installed raising links which helps tremendously. - Periodic maintenance such as wheel bearings, relube suspension mechanics, replace front springs (need to do this again), lube splines, etc. Other than that, gas, tires, periodic fluid changes, and ride. Oh, and there is a solid contingent of VR folks in Packer country. Go Pack Go indeed! RR

Wish you were closer by. I would drop of my take-off R/R from when I changed my stator. Pretty sure it still works. RR

Welcome to the family and congratulations on a good buy. You will quickly find there are several folks on here that really know their stuff. ^^Cowpuc^^ is one of them. I learned something today. Guess I can go back to bed. That is a great post. RR

'72 Kawa H2? Be still my beating heart. RR

First order of business is to replace the clutch fluid. If it is old, it will contain water and act funny. If you are going to change out the clutch, +1 on the Barnett spring upgrade. RR

Very nice bike. Keep the rubber side up! RR

I'll try to get it out to you tomorrow. May be Thursday. RR

+1 to FlyingFool's suggestion. Look at the two bolts holding on the ignition switch. If they have a standard hexkey head on them, it is a replacement. The original switch has tamperproof heads on the bolts. If you got a box of parts with this bike, look for the old ignition switch. It has a code on the bottom that will provide a dealer with the key code. Another thought, take a detailed look around the bike for an extra key. Taped under the seat, electrical taped to the frame, ziptied under the trunk, etc. There might be one there. RR

Go with the Barnett spring set up. The problem is the spring, not the actual clutch plates/steels. I was going through clutches every 30k miles or so until I put in the Barnett. Using the heavy duty springs, I have about 60k without any slippage. 156k miles on it now. RR

Don't leave home without one. I have jumped my daughter's Explorer, my wife's Caddy, and several friends cars/trucks. Also jumped my Venture when the battery died a couple of summers ago. Really saved my bacon in June when my stator went out on the Venture. Was able to charge the battery enough to get me to a place that fully charged the battery allowing me to ride home. RR

+1 on the Longhorns. I have them on my 2nd Gen. I'm 6'4" and am able to stretch my legs out. RR

Check the main/starter fuse. Behind the battery cover on the clutch lever side. RR

Although, you don't need to remove the swingarm to replace the shock. Still a good idea to lube the swingarm bearings. RR

This is also a good time to look at raising links and to inspect/relube the needle bearings that the mounting bolts run through. And to lube the drive splines, and clean/lube the drive pins. How many miles do you have on your RSV? If more than 50k, it might be a good time to have the rear wheel bearings changed. If you have a decent lift, this isn't really difficult, just time consuming. And +1 on the Hagon shock vs. the OEM. RR

Stator and R/R installed and working!! Was able to run all the lights (including the incandescent running lamps that I never use) and it was able to charge even at idle. Doesn't appear to be any oil leaks. I took pictures of the procedure and will write up a tech article soon. The stator side of the bike is really clean too. Polished everything up while it was off the bike or exposed. Replaced the rear pads while it was on the lift. Will need to clean up the throttle side tomorrow and get it out of the shop. RR

I stand corrected. It is, indeed, a 4 piston caliper. And, at least mine, has new rear brake pads. RR

Jeff, I haven't got that part out yet so I don't know. Was waiting for the JIS screwdrivers before the stator removal. Will advise. RR

Cowpuc, I have run Kendas on my little BMW and have been very pleased with their performance. Good tire for very few dollars. Look forward to updates on how long they will last on Tweeksis. RR EDIT: I have been running Shinkos on the BMW. Kendas have been on my KLR. Both are doing their job well.