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RedRider

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Everything posted by RedRider

  1. www.throttlemeister.com. Top quality product built in Milwaukee, WI (not by Hardly Davidson). My Dad has one on his BMW and it is a piece of artwork and works perfectly. Depending on type, it will cost $115 or $125. It replaces your end weight on the throttle. RR
  2. Keep in mind this procedure is done with the lift adapter with auxilliary legs only. RR
  3. The bleeder fitting for the clutch is along the side of the engine, left side (clutch lever side). It is covered by a square black cap. RR
  4. RedRider

    polish

    Personally, I prefer kielbasa instead, whether on the road or not. RR FWIW: The old 'Honda Polish' has been rebranded under the name 'Original Polish'. The graphics on the can look the same. Honda stopped marketing the 'Honda Polish' (I believe) due to California EPA BS. The product now labeled as 'Original Polish' is the best for cleaning bodywork while on the road. Plexus is best for windshields, mirrors, and faceshields. Pledge is great at keeping the bodywork clean and making cleanup easier.
  5. As little as you can pay. I would start at $75. That amount got me a Suzuki GS750 project bike. Post pics once you get it. Sounds like a fun project. RR
  6. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D02-FZlQ1Oc]YouTube- Touch-Black Star[/ame] RR
  7. Yeah, it's not too hard to do the drive shaft with it still installed in the pumpkin. I've had it out of the U-joint several times but have never removed it from the pumpkin. Just be patient, use a flashlight to look up the shaft tube to see that the U-joint is centered, and slide it in. Easy as that (OK, it's not really that easy, you will need to take a few swings at it). RR
  8. $12 at the dealer. Just busted one last month. RR
  9. Before you take it apart, you can confirm this is your problem by checking the front of the yoke (pull back boot, rotate tire, etc.). If the yoke turns with the tire, I owe you a donut (or would I owe you a dollar??). RR
  10. Yes, this is possible and a dollar to a donut, is the problem here. BTDT just last month. The drive shaft will fit next to the U-joint yoke and jamb the works when you try to put it into gear. Take it all apart and try to re-seat the drive shaft. Once you have it all back together, have the transmission in neutral, pull back the boot covering the front of the U-joint, turn the tire, and make sure the U-joint turns. Be patient and the shaft will go into the joint. If you don't know, there is a plastic plug on the side of the drive shaft housing that will allow you to use a piece of wire (coat hanger, car antenna, heavy gauge copper wire, etc.) to line up the yoke. Good luck. RR
  11. It certainly sounds like a fuel difficulty. Did you reconnect the vent hose at the front of the tank when you reinstalled the tank? Is the vent hose pinched somewhere? If you have 2 keys, open the tank and see if it will start and run. If so, you have a vent problem. The only other thing I can think of is you loosened some junk in the tank while moving it around and it is now clogging the fuel filter. Might be a good time to change that out. Good luck and please let us know what you find. RR
  12. Thank you for asking this. I have wondered this also. BTW, how do you get the shaft out of the pumpkin? Last time the pumpkin was off the bike (about a month ago) I tried to pull the shaft out and it would not come. Didn't really yank on it too hard, but still. RR
  13. I want ABS on my next bike. I always wear my helmet. I always wear a seat belt in my car. I never smoke indoors. I don't carry a concealed weapon. However, I hate that the government is (trying to) mandating these behavoirs to me. They are not my mother. Stick to the job they do well, which is,.....????? I'll get back to you on that. You can argue that ABS is preferable on a car/bike, it probably is. However, it is not the government's job to protect me from me. If the insurance institute wants ABS to be on all bikes, suggest to their PRIVATE COMPANY MEMBERS that they provide rate discounts for ABS and let the market make the decision. This is not the intent of the Constitution's Commerce Clause which is the only needle eye they can try to force this mandating camel thru. Rant off... RR
  14. Or maybe one of these True Tread tires. Not sure it will meet the speed rating required though. RR
  15. Perhaps he is thinking of the older style tyre with the straight grooves like the tyre on the left. RR
  16. I understand the Windsor ballet is very nice. Oh, you are taking the wife?? Never mind... RR
  17. Bill Mayer/Rick Mayer saddle - Completely custom, hand made seat. Submit pictures of you on bike along with personal dimensions for sizing. Uses multiple layers of special foam(s) to improve support over a wider area. Also available as a ride-in build. Works well for those under 250 lbs. One of the real long distance saddles - designed for multiple 1000+ mile days. Built on your OEM seatpan. $450-$800 plus shipping each way - depending on options. Russell Day Long saddle - Completely custom, hand made seat. Also must submit pictures along with dimensions. This saddle uses an extra internal spring support structure that is especially nice for heavier riders. This is the seat with 'butt wings'. This is the other real long distance saddle built for multiple 1000+ days. Built on your OEM seatpan. Also available as a ride-in build. $450-$800 plus shipping each way - depending on options. Butt Butler - Rick modifies the seat foam by relieving areas of stress, such as where the tailbone hits. He also can shave down the sides making it easier for a short rider to flatfoot the bike. Adds memory foam to relieved area for structure and comfort. This makes a stock 200 mile seat into a 400 mile seat. I had this done to a stock (non-pillowtop) seat and it made all the difference in the world. Still not a 1000+ mile, multiday seat, but light years ahead of stock. If you are not planning on doing LD riding and just want to be able to casually ride all day, this is the best value in seats. Approx $50 plus shipping each way. Rick, feel free to correct any of this above about your seat mod. Hope this helps. There are often specials and group membership (AMA, BMWOA, etc) discounts of 10% or so. RR
  18. You don't want pics of a RDL seat. While they are the most comfortable out there, they are also one of the ugliest seats ever. However, since you insist... RR
  19. Just made my first run with my new RDL saddle. 4700 miles in 9 days including two 1000+ mile days (first day and last day). My butt was ready for more although the locks would have gotten changed on the house if I went for more. I agree with you, wish I had spring for the RDL years ago. RR
  20. Although, neither of these pipes look too bad. They are just slightly different and have a nice gray color. No black. RR
  21. Could be needing a sync, but the color in the pipes is generally from the mixture. Need to find someone with a ColorTune or a gas analyzer to really set the mixture properly. RR
  22. I think you may find 2.5 turns to be a little rich. Start out at 1.5 turns from bottom. Mine seems to run very nicely at 1.25 turns out (initially set with a ColorTune). RR
  23. I put them in a trailer that I pulled behind the bike. RR
  24. Just bought one to put on my KLR. Doesn't matter what the finish is like on a KLR - there isn't any chrome on it anyway. May have to spray paint it black. RR
  25. However, it cannot match the SMILES per gallon of the Venture. RR
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