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RedRider

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Everything posted by RedRider

  1. Jeff, The splines appear to be in pretty good shape. I don't see any damage at all to the teeth. Interestingly, I keep hearing how this junction is only lubed by grease. But when I opened it up, there was oil in there. However, I believe the rear bearing was damaged also (it was likely the first bearing to go leading to the needle bearing damage). If I recal correctly, it is a sealed bearing which would prevent oil from getting past it to the splines. There are two holes in the bottom of the spline cup that allowed the oil to come in. From taking it apart and reviewing the pieces, it appears the splines are only grease lubed and are (supposed to be) isolated from the gear oil. RR
  2. Thank you. I searched Ebay earlier today and wasn't able to find any 2nd gen pumpkins. If any of the members have one they would like to sell, I would be glad to take it off your hands before going the Pinwall route. Anyone Trike their ride recently? Upgraded to a VMax rear end? Let me know. Good thing I didn't go to Potato Creek this weekend. Could have been trouble. RR
  3. RedRider

    Dealer

    Yeah, dealers won't touch it. RR
  4. While removing my rear wheel to have a new tire put on, I decided to lube the drive shaft end that goes into the pumpkin. I have lubed the shaft end that went into the U-joint, but was never able to get the shaft out of the pumpkin end. The oil seal was stuck. I slide a mechanics pick around the oil seal and it came right out. However, I noticed the pinion was really loose. I could move it around - axially - by an 1/8 inch or so. Not good. Showed it to the mechanic at the local dealer and he agreed the nose bearing is likely shot. I typically replace the rear drive fluid every time I change the oil. The last several changes I noticed a good sized ball of shavings on the magnetic plug. Now I know where these shavings are coming from. Took the rear drive apart and the pinion nose bearing is shot. Unfortunately, the outer race is worn down so far there is not a shoulder to press against to remove it. Heated the race hosing with a butane torch and it tried to move it, but no go. The inner race on the pinion nose looks frosted (micro tearing of the metal, soon leading to full spalling). OK, bottom line - I need a rear pumpkin. Anyone have one available they would like to sell? Guess the KLR is going to see some additional miles over the next few weeks. RR
  5. RedRider

    Dealer

    However, good on the dealer for fixing it and accepting responsibility. Glad it got taken care of. Now, go ride the wheels off that thing. RR
  6. I will back up Condor on the shiny strips on the E3. I just had a set installed on my rims and haven't even mounted the tires back onto the bike. The shiny ring on both sides is there. Can't be caused by rubbing. RR
  7. Well, Back from the dealer getting the tires mounted and balanced. It appears the pumpkin is trashed. The pinion nose bearing appears to be shreaded. I am heading out to the shop to tear into it and see. Will get more info on the tires once the pumpkin is fixes (or replaced). RR
  8. Andrew, I am on my way to the dealer (or will be once I finish this post) to get a new set of E3's mounted to my RSV. This is my second set of these and I didn't have any trouble with the first. Assuming my pumpkin isn't trashed (topic for another thread), I will have it back together this afternoon. I am also in the 'large' catagory (270#) so we will see what happens. Will let you know. RR
  9. Like Mike said, pretty easy to deal with. You can get more info on VN750.com (I realize your bike is a VN500, but they are mostly the same from what I understand). Remove the nut from the back of the chain tensioner, put a screwdriver in and turn 1/2 turn CCW. Let it spring back, replace the cover nut, go for a ride. Good luck. RR
  10. How do you get that out of the pumpkin? I tried to remove it during last winter's maintinance and was not able to. Is this spline not lubed by the rear end gear oil? RR
  11. Jeff, My driving lights are sealed beams instead of H3 style. Not sure what I need to do to change this out. Just started looking. Thanks for the info on HID Country. RR
  12. One item I noticed had not been mentioned, the HID only uses 35 Watts of power where the Ultra uses 55 Watts (at least). I ran a SilverStar (not Ultra) for several years and many thousands of miles without difficulty. The HID, however, really kicks out the lumens. I now need to find a way to replace my driving lights with 4" HIDs and I will be searing the retinas out of those damn forest rats. RR
  13. I'll take them if the deal with oldroadstar falls thru. RR
  14. At least he kept his clothes on. RR
  15. Yup, I'm 6'4" and just picked mine up Friday. Laid it down in some wet, slick as snot gravel/clay in northwest North Dakota. Had no business being where I was, but the story will follow shortly. For the sake of this thread, I was able to use the "back to the seat, grab handle bars and passanger grab handles, and walk backwards towards the bike" technique. The ground was a little slippery, and I was a little t'd off, but got it up. I proceeded to get the bonus I was hunting for, road an additional 4 miles of gravel in the rain, got back on pavement, and didn't do anymore gravel that day. RR
  16. +1 WFO Used in a sentence - "The policeman clocked him at 110 mph due to him riding his 2nd gen with the throttle WFO." Acronym spelling - not in a family forum. RR
  17. Bob, Think you will make FtWayne? I will call my folks and see if they are around tonight. Always have a bed available for wayward travelers. I'll leave a message on your cell if they are around. Looks like you are having a great ride. Did you put your "This bike climbed Mt. Washington" sticker on the new shiny bag? RR
  18. If you ever run out of gas on this machine, you are not paying any attention. All these indicators occur, some shortly before, some shortly after, the main tank runs out: 1) Fuel gauge changes from 'bars' to 'F' and displays a count-up odometer. This usually happens somewhere between 1 and 2 bars on the guage. 2) The main tank will run dry and you need to switch to reserve. Total tank capacity is 5.9 gal, reserve is 0.9 gal of this. 3) There is an indicator light (orange, IIRC) that advises low fuel. 4) Your passenger will smack in the back of the helmet to advise you the need to stop at the nearest gas station. This is the indication that usually gets my attention. RR
  19. No problem with air flow. It only blocks a small portion of the cooling area. RR
  20. Yup, putting stocks back on. Trading my Bubs to Squidley for a set of stocks. Want the quieter pipes since I am doing mostly LD riding this summer. If I am going for a short (under 100 miles) putt around, I take the KLR. Looking forward to hearing what the stocks sound like. I bought my bike used with the Bubs installed. They need repacked, so they are pretty loud. Prefer quiet (must be getting old). RR
  21. Well, at least we got something for all the money we send them. Glad the trip is rolling along nicely. Thanks for the updates. RR
  22. And the cassette deck? RR
  23. Have a great trip Bob. Call me this week for a couple of roads to hit and places to eat. Did the NE trip a couple of year ago - you will love it. RR
  24. Boomer, Before you go changing out the sending unit, take the plastic cover off from around your ignition switch. Check and make sure the electrical connector on the left is properly attached and clean. This is the connector to the sending unit. Good luck buddy. Happy Memorial Day. RR
  25. I have three - 1) Ride to Alaska with my Dad. We are planning on this for next year. He'll be 71 this year and would love to go. Rides a BMW R1200GS (nice bike). 2) Iron Butt Rally - 11,000 miles in 11 days. The Super Bowl of long distance riding. 'nuff said. 3) Thru Mexico, Central America, and South America to Tierra del Fuego, Argentina on the KLR. OK, four. Moscow to Beijing Rally. However, money would have to be no object. RR
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