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RedRider

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Everything posted by RedRider

  1. This is exactly what the McCuff is designed for. RR
  2. It's Wisconsin. Clearly there was alcohol involved. RR
  3. I bought two of these last time around. Great wrench. If you intend to do your own work, this is a tool you must own (or a properly sized spanner wrench). Money well spent. RR
  4. Deer camp opens a week from today. Mind you, I hunt in my back yard so deer camp isn't quite as exotic as most. However, it sure makes that disapointing drive home after getting skunked a whole lot shorter. Good luck all. RR
  5. But then, take a look at the Connie14. That is a sweet bike. RR
  6. An inexpensive battery charger is less expensive than the copper required to manufacture this doorstop. And it will add inches to your manhood. It will allow you to win the Nigerian lottery on a regular basis. It will finally kill that rich uncle you didn't now about. He left you a massive fortune. It cures baldness, obesity, and halitosis without changing your diet. Pass. RR
  7. It's a lot of fun taking your son out for their first ride. Took my youngest boy to the fairground's parking lot this afternoon to let him start riding around on my KLR650. He drives a manual transmission car ('66 AMC Rambler) so the clutch wasn't too hard to figure out. Once he got a handle on the control locations he did really well. Wish we had a field to go ride in. That would be a lot of fun. Good on you for letting him get some experience before hitting the roads. RR
  8. The 'Heat-Troller' lines of controllers are made by WarmNSafe and are private labelled by several retailers. www.warmnsafe.com. Good product, made in America. Have a dual Heat-Troller on my bike for several years and it continues to work great. RR
  9. It is rare, but there can be an issue with the bearings in the rear drive. A simple check of the gear lash should confirm or deny any difficulties with that. My rear drive went out at about 75,000 miles. Most rear drives last the life of the bike. Don't want to be an alarmist since there have only been a couple of rear end failures reported on here (other than the pond monster). RR
  10. Jeff, Your bike is just punishing you for being such a wimp and waiting for the weather to warm up to 38 degrees. She just wants to get out there in the REAL cold. In seriousness, I hope it warms up a bit since I am leaving tomorrow for a ride down Skyland Drive / BRP. Oh yeah, I also have a meeting in NC Tuesday thru Thursday. That return ride will likely be pretty chilly. RR
  11. I is a true PITA to remove, but not hard. As said by Ruffy, label eveything just to make your life easier. However, Yamaha did a nice job by having everything connectorized - and all the connectors are different. Very difficult to mix something up. Pay very close attention to the proper routing of the wiring. While the fairing is off is a good time to check and retighten your steering head. Depending on the mileage, it might even be time to check and relube the steering head bearings. There is a member on here that makes a spanner specifically for tightening the neck bearing nuts. Check the classifieds. Or if you are nice, one of us might let you borrow the tool. Good luck. Done it twice and it was a pain, but was successful - so it can't be too hard. RR
  12. Yup, Speedbleeders are the best. Bleed both front brake calipers, rear brake, and clutch in about 1/2 hour yesterday. Wasn't even enough time to finish my beer. RR
  13. You mean there is a place where you can rent women for a while and then exchange them when you are done? Hmmmm. Not sure if that would be wise expenditure of money either. RR
  14. http://tobie.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/gerlachfest2010/Gerlach-2010-314edited-1/1036771013_GmwYj-S.jpg This is the type of open carry that will keep the criminal element at bay. One of the best motorcycle pictures I have ever seen. RR
  15. +1 on the CarbonOne lift adapter. Don't lift the Venture without one. Spend the extra few bucks and get the model with legs. You won't regret it. RR
  16. Replacing the air filters is not an inexpensive maintenance item. However, the fuel filter is - but it is a PITA to get at. The fuel filter sits on the front of the battery box, under the seat, behind the fuel pump. Remove the clutch side battery cover (one of the decorative hex head bolts actually holds it in place along with a couple of rubber push thru plugs) and look in behind. As for the sync tool, yes the Morgon Carbtune is the tool of choice. It is about $100. Perhaps you can lay on a post asking if someone in your area has a Carbtune and can help you sync your carbs. Even if you purchase a Carbtune, it is really helpful to watch it being done first time. Good luck with it. I would be glad to help but there is a big pond between us and not enough time this fall to do a 'Round Lake Michigan run. RR
  17. You may or may not be succesful getting a dealer to help with this. However, a quick trip to the hardware store to get some ABS glue will get you back going for just a few dollars and no hassle. It generally will be found in the plumbing section (next to the PVC glue). The lowers are easy to remove. Clean the joint and glue back on. Let it dry overnight. Reinstall and ride, ride, ride. I have about 5000 miles on my repair and it is as solid as if it were new. RR
  18. That is a great bike. Would love to have one. RR
  19. Bob, You need any drywall tools? (blades of varying widths, corner blade, sanding float with extednsion handle, etc.) Got lots and don't do drywall mudding and taping anymore. Let me know. RR
  20. Charlie, I stand corrected. Went and grabbed the magazine to confirm what I read and found the Honda offering was the VFR1200F and not the ST. Should have read the big print a little closer. RR
  21. Interestingly enough, Rider magazine just did a sport tourer shootout with the FJR, ST, Triumph, and Connie14. They felt the ST was more a pure sport bike than the FJR. However, they chose the Connie as the best of all. Better ergos, seat, and wind protection. However, the FJR has a 250+ mile range - I like that. This is in the latest Rider that I got in the mail today. RR
  22. Pics of the young Mom or it didn't happen! RR
  23. Start checking for wear on the rear at about 4000 miles. Had two rear D404's not make it to 5000 miles. It appears the OEM D404 and the aftermarket D404s are not the same. There will never be another D404 on my bike (if I have a choice). They are the most expensive tire I have ever put on - and would be even if they were free. Not a chance, never, no way, no how. RR
  24. FW, Take the halogen lightbulb with you. If the HID burns out, it is a simple swap out. No rewiring required. (You should always carry a spare anyway). RR
  25. There are several levels of Iron Butt rides sanctioned by the Iron Butt Association (IBA). The most common is the Saddle Sore 1000 (SS1000) which is 1000 miles in 24 hours. The next most common, and the one you apparently rode, is the Bun Burner 1500 (BB1500) which is 1500 miles in 36 hours. There are some more extreme rides such as the BBGold (1500 miles in 24 hours), SS2000 (2000 miles in 48 hours), SS3000, SS5000, 10-10th, etc. There is specific documentation required for each ride. It is all right here: http://www.ironbutt.com/ridecerts/ Good times, Oh yeah, good times. RR IBA #33089 (SS1000, BB1500, SS2000 - ridden but not submitted)
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