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RedRider

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Everything posted by RedRider

  1. RedRider
    What Venture do you have? Your profile only shows a Wing. The leveling links work on all 2nd gen from '99 to present. If you want to add stiffness to your rear shock, add air. The Schraeder valve is on the throttle side just behind the driver's seat. IIRC, the max pressure in the rear shock is 45lbs. Check you owners manual. This should make quite a difference in the ride. RR
  2. RedRider
    I have a set you may have. PM your address and I will put them in the mail. RR
  3. RedRider
    Yup, heading out April 1st or 2nd to New Mexico, Death Valley, Majove NP, Downtown LA, up to Alice's Restaraunt, east to Moonshine, IL, and then home on the 9th. Can't wait. Too much darn snow and cold this winter. Scooter Bob, remind me again why we live up here? RR
  4. RedRider
    You can give me money - no problem. I will even throw in a motorcycle. It may not run, but hey, I will sell it to you. RR
  5. RedRider
    If one of your kids (or grandkids) has a PS3 it should play in there. RR
  6. RedRider
    Sears makes (or sells) two different versions of MC/ATV lifts. The red one is OK with OK reviews. The yellow one is more expensive, but has great reviews and works really well (I have a yellow one). I also suggest getting the CarbonOne lift adapter with legs. Best money you will spend. RR
  7. RedRider
    I tried to get the clutch basket off a Kawa Vulcan without the tool. Replacement clutch baskets are much more expensive than the tool. Get the tool. RR
  8. RedRider
    L'B, It sure would be awkward having to ride ***** on the back of a KLR if you broke down during a ride. To answer your first question, there is a connector under the tank that has two conductors running thru it. Red wire and brown/green (IIRC). The connector is light red. This connector is up near the ignition switch next to the two large white connectors (you will see them when you take the tank and ignition shroud off). This connector is also prone to failure. I believe you can take this connector apart, snip off the wiring harness half (vs. the ignition half) and install a couple of female spade terminals. You can then go in and install a relay across those two lines to take the load off the ignition switch. You may find this will alleviate your problem. I have been running around with my ignition being flakey as you have described for about two years. I also had to replace the connector as described above. Just this past weekend, I put in the bypass relay and the ignition switch now doesn't miss a beat. Please keep in mind that I live in WI and there is still lots of snow outside. Therefore all testing has been done in the lab and may or may not reflect actual results in the outside physical world. If you don't have a problem taking off the tank while on the road, find where the bypass switch wires in, split the wires and put protected spade connectors there. Then, if you have ignition switch problems, take off the tank, disconnect the spade terminals, plug in your bypass (which already has preinstalled mating spade terminals), and hit the road. RR
  9. RedRider
    Not if you carry enough Duct tape. Actually, depending on your HID setup, the standard light bulb can be easily put back in place. You disconnect the original light bulb connector from the HID harness, take the HID bulb out of the headlight, replace it with the original H4 lamp, and reconnect the original connector. I always carry a spare headlight (and taillight) with me just in case. The pygmies would come in handy with their small hands. Had to do this at midnight in North Dakota, in the rain, during the Minnesota 2010 rally. Really could have used the HID lighting that night. RR
  10. RedRider
    Martin Fabrication has 30" extension cables available with the waterproof connections. RR
  11. RedRider
    Agreed. I would love that too. (With an additional set of HIDs up there, I could vaporize anything that got in my way.) Actually, I would replace the PAR36s with the HIDs and move the MF HIDs to the KLR. RR
  12. RedRider
    My ballast went south after a month or so. I emailed back and forth to Scott, ultimately returned it, he replaced it under warranty. Now, I have a switch/relay to start the light after the bike is running. Same as with the HID running lights (although they are not CCC lights). I believe the CCC lights are what you pay for them - cheap. However, with the switch in place, it may last thru the year. RR
  13. RedRider
    These are 35W each lights. Therefore, they draw 3 amps each. I am still running the stock stator. The headlight also pulls 35W. However, that is less than the stock headlight of 55W (I think) so I get some savings there. If I run all 3 HID lights without the standard running lights, it actually pulls less power than the previous standard head/running lights. I have a volt meter on the bike (LED, not digital) and it displays green with all lights blazing - at high idle (with choke on). RR
  14. RedRider
    Both the switches and the fork lights are from Martin Fabrication (Google is your friend). If you have the chrome trim around your front fender, the bracket fits perfectly between the fender and the trim. In fact, there is a spacer in between that is replaced by the mounting bracket. Almost like it was made for it. The lights are easy to install, however, mounting the other stuff is kind of a pain. Each side has its own ballast/igniter (one unit about the size of a pack of smokes) that need mounted in the fairing. They both fit nicely in the throttle side with some double sided tape. You will need to get the extension wiring since the stock wiring is only about 20 inches. MF has a 30" extention (one for each) even though it does not show up on their website - you have to ask. I know how bright the headlight is at night on the road. Really looking forward to the retina searing lumens being thrown down the street. RR
  15. RedRider
    I have completed the installation of an HID headlight and a pair of Martin Fabrication HID running lights. Attached are some pics when off, when on, and the switches (on and off). I added a switch for the headlight since it dies during starting (voltage drop will not keep the HID burning). Am looking forward to burning a hole through the darkness soon. Need to get at least another 6 inches of snow melted off the back drive though so I can get the bike out of the shop. C'mon Spring!!! RR
  16. RedRider
    Had some of this around the house. Only use it to bait mouse traps. Jif Crunchy is the only way. RR
  17. RedRider
    Jeff, Pictures are required .... of the dog too. Good dog. RR
  18. RedRider
    Had a different bike with a slotted hole cover like that. Put a quarter in a set of ViceGrips and it worked great. RR
  19. RedRider
    Well done. Thank you for your service to the community. As a thought ... Have you considered doing a first aid presentation at a VR gathering? Such as Don's MD or the Cody Rally? Just simple basics. What to pack for a first aid kit and how to use it. How to get a bug out of the eye. Cuts, road rash, shock prevention, etc. Not sure how deep to go. But you get the idea. Thanks again. RR
  20. RedRider
    Playing basketball. RR
  21. RedRider
    Sat on the Tenere'. As of now, that will be my next bike. Absolutely fantastic. However, still have 4 kids in, or about to enter, college. New bikes will need to wait. Ducati had some really fine looking ..... umm... bikes. Agree'd, nothing overly special in the Honda booth other than the Cobra customs. They were really amazingly cool. My boys had a great time looking at all the motorcycle pron. RR
  22. RedRider
    Dave, The carbs aren't that hard. There will be essentially no adjustments (that's the hard part without the experience or tools). This is simply take them off, take them apart, clean, put them back together the same way they came apart, reinstall, ride. RR
  23. RedRider
    Give us a few additional pieces of info and we can likely diagnose this issue. 1) Where exactly is this drip coming from? Front of engine, mid engine, ... 2) What is the fluid? Oil, something like ATF, antifreeze,... 3) Have you recently done/had an oil change? 4) What is the oil fill height in the window? Likely not a big deal (unless it is the shock - not a big deal, just expensive). Let us know and we will be glad to help. RR
  24. RedRider
    Clogged low speed jet. You will need to take the carbs off and take them apart. No special tools except needing a small diameter wire. If you have stranded wiring, use a single strand. Guitar string (small one); sometimes you can use the wire in a twist tie; you get the idea. Take it apart, look at the jet (cylinder that needle goes into), poke and clean every orific. This should take care of the 'no idle' issue. While you have it apart, check the condition of your carb boots. Both sets - airbox to carbs and carbs to cylinders (if they have them on this bike). Shouldn't take too long to do. May require a few gaskets for the float bowls, but often in the older models you can reuse them if they don't tear. Good luck. RR
  25. RedRider

    Beartooth

    RedRider replied to phill12's topic in Watering Hole

    Opens fine for me (Running IE7). Great video. Bothered me when you are going around corners 'cause I can't see thru them. Keep feeling like I'm going off the edge. Need to do that road. Thanks for posting. RR
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