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RedRider

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Everything posted by RedRider

  1. RedRider
    Rick, I am very interested at seeing this set of instructions. Will be upgrading the springs this winter as they are getting pretty weak (or maybe I am just gaining weight - Naaahh!). RR
  2. RedRider
    Dang, Goose. When did you start getting all diplomatic and stuff. (good answer though). RR
  3. RedRider
    No adapters are needed for the Carbtune (or for any others that I know of). RR
  4. RedRider
    Dang. I have a shelf I wanted to cut a decorative shape on the edge and you got me all excited. RR
  5. RedRider
    Dana, Welcome to the VR Family. Since you are new, I will offer this one piece of very solid advice. When Goose speaks, listen. His diagnostic skills and knowledge about these machines is VERY good. Put out a request for some help doing a carb sync. (#1 on the Goose list). It requires a 4 line manometer (vacuum gauge) and several members have one. In my experience, this will take care of the backfiring in most cases. It is also the least intrusive - easiest to do - of the carb diagnostics. It might also be helpful to run some Seafoam (mix 1/2 can in a tank of gas) and see if that clears up the carbs. If you are able to get with another member, they can also point out the pilot screw locations. If the caps are on, they are kind of hard to find if you don't know what you are looking for. And no, you don't need to replace the caps once/if you make an adjustment. Again, welcome. RR
  6. RedRider
    John, You should have the valves shims checked. Manual calls for checking at about 30k miles. Real life has shown 50k miles (YMMV). Hope that was part of the maintenance last month. RR
  7. RedRider
    Alright, don't make me have to look it up after a couple of bourbons. What size? RR
  8. RedRider
    I'm glad you posted this. I am up for another rear tire (16K+ miles on an E3) and am debating a CT. I am not looking for longer life, although that would be nice. However, I have been having confidence trouble on gravel and I understand the CT provides a much better feel on non-pavement roads. We will be heading to Alaska next summer and I am sure there will be gravel/nasty pavement. It may just be my lack of skills. But, dang, gravel just scares the heck out of me. The only two times I dropped my bike was in gravel. RR
  9. RedRider
    Or if you just want a non-fitted sheep skin, IKEA has nice ones for $20 or $30 (don't remember, it's been a while since I got mine). Make sure you go to an IKEA store in a different town than where you live. If a friend sees you in there, they will revoke your Mancard. RR
  10. RedRider
    I believe you can also send it back to Corbin for a rebuild. You may or may not like it. Some folks love them, I wasn't so impressed. RR
  11. RedRider
    Lack of a safety cassette deck. RR
  12. RedRider
    Just rolled 100,000 on mine and will be taking it to Alaska next year (7-8000 mile round trip) without hesitation. Change the oil and pumpkin lube, periodically throw on some new shoes, and ride it like you stole it. Maintenance is fairly straight forward and you have really great group of VR guys (and gals) down there in Tejas. Lots of knowledge and experience on keeping these fine machines running as long as you want them to run. If'n you are buying new (or even fairly new), they come with a transferable 5 year warranty. It also makes a pretty good long distance steed (talkin' 'bout Iron Butt stuff here). This is the best family forum to help you with spending your hard earned dollars on shiny bits and comfort accessories. Welcome. RR
  13. RedRider
    The ViQueens will not win the Super Bowl until they get back to playing outside. GO PACKERS!!! RR
  14. RedRider
    I have over 50k miles on mine, no problem. Installing mine, I drilled a couple of holes in the plastic around the connection tabs and ran my wires thru there. Then soldered them to the terminals and filled the plastic cavity around the connection with clear chalk. This allows the wires to come out the side and stay away from the exhaust and protects the connections from road grime and water. Works great. +1 on the CarbonOne bracket. RR
  15. RedRider
    Any civilized person would turn their nose up at chittlins. RR
  16. RedRider
    Wow, you are old. Oh, wait.......I was 20 then. Never mind. RR
  17. RedRider
    Some of the old timers will pop in here and give you details, but it sounds like shift forks to me. This requires cracking the case. However, I could be full of it. I ride a 2nd gen. RR
  18. RedRider
    You don't need to remove the saddlebag rails. It is also a good time to lube the drive pins in the wheel hub. Easy to do (if you have snap ring pliers). If they are dry, they will likely have a film of rust. You can use some emory cloth or steel wool on the pins. For the bores, you can use a 20 ga. shotgun cleaning brush. However, you are right. Once you get into it, it is readily apparent what needs to come off and what doesn't. Pay very close attention as to where the washer on the brake caliper side goes. It is not uncommon to replace that in the wrong location and have to do it all over again. (Doesn't break anything, just doesn't allow you to remount the brake caliper correctly). Not a bad idea to add some anti-sieze on the axle when you replace it. Use a new cotter pin (always). Swap the inside/outside rear brake pads (put inner on outside and outer on inside). They wear unevenly and this will get you additional life out of the set. Lube the gear spline on the inside of the drive pumpkin. It is also a good idea to lube the drive shaft splines inside the pumpkin, but that is a little bigger job. Just ask us and we can help you with it. Be very careful off the brake disc when changing the tire. If you are taking it to a shop that does not usually do motorcycle tires, it's not a bad idea to remove it. Make sure to use a torque wrench and blue loctite when replacing the bolts. While the bags are off, check all the bolts along the chrome rail. They have a tendency to come loose. If you have the Carbon One adapter with legs, it doesn't stand up high enough to get the wheel out (without removing a bunch of other stuff like the rails). You will need to lift it a bit more with the jack once the wheel is loose. Good Luck. RR
  19. RedRider

    Keys

    RedRider replied to scooter45's topic in Watering Hole

    Good to hear it looks like the dealer is stepping up (or being pushed up) to the plate. If it doesn't get resolved, and you would like a single key, you can get a complete set of locks, with keys, from Pinwall for about $150. RR
  20. RedRider
    Come on back anytime. You can also rent BMWs over here. RR
  21. RedRider
    What will we do with all the out-of-work dentists and gourmet chefs? RR
  22. RedRider
    I'll be watching the Brewers in the NLCS. Will occasionally skip over to the football game between innings though. GO BREWERS!!!!!! RR
  23. RedRider
    Dave (and anyone else using the CCC HID), You MUST put a switch in line with the light. HIDs don't like to be turned off and then back on quickly. It kills the ballast. When you start the 1300, voltage drop to the system falls below the voltage required to maintain the HID and it turns off. As soon as the bike is running, it turns back on. Had it happen to my CCC HID. After bugging CCC for a while, they provided a warranty replacement. I have installed it along with an LED indicated switch. Turn off the HID before I turn off the bike. Turn the HID back on after starting the bike. Has worked flawlessly all this riding season. The previous unswitched version only lasted a month or so. I still carry a backup SS Ultra in my saddle bag tool kit, just in case. I certainly enjoy the additional light being thrown down the road and the extra watts available for other farkles. RR
  24. RedRider
    Boomer, Can you imagine how ugly this guy really is if he is using your picture as an improvement? Scarrrrry. RR
  25. RedRider
    +1 on the original. Use them in all my bikes. RR
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