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RedRider

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Everything posted by RedRider

  1. RedRider
    Wow, Don. I thought it was going to be something really bad - like he bought a Harley. RR
  2. RedRider
    ScooterBob, Looks to be sunny and low/mid 50's up here for the next few days. Ride safely. RR
  3. RedRider
    To check the small jet holes, I use the smallest string from my son's guitar (yes, a broken string that he replaced - I'm not taking apart his guitar). It is stiff enough to get thru the crude and flexible enough to work with. RR
  4. RedRider
    FYI to those considering the modulator - they don't work with HID headlights. RR
  5. RedRider
    What a great idea!! Something else to add into the shop in all my free time. RR
  6. RedRider
    For future reference, don't ever run the D404s on the Venture (especially the rear). Too light of a tire for the RSV. Avon Venom, Dunlop E3, and Michelin Commander are the general choices. RR
  7. RedRider
    Are you looking to upgrade the aesthetics or the amount of light being thrown out? RR
  8. RedRider
    That sound is your Wing wanting to be a Ducati. RR
  9. RedRider
    Ride safely and have a great time. RR
  10. RedRider
  11. RedRider
    Trailer a Venture??????? What's that?? RR
  12. RedRider
    Could be the starter solenoid. Had mine go bad early on. Only real problem I have ever had with this bike. And, only time left stranded. Fortunately, I was in my driveway. RR
  13. RedRider
    For $5 extra, you should patronize your dealer (if they are a decent dealer). They stay alive with part sales. Spend a little time getting to know the part manager and see if they will meet or get close to the internet pricing. You might be surprised and be able to keep you money 'in the family'. It has worked for me. RR
  14. RedRider
    Do you have the repair manual? There is a diagram in there of the starting circuit. There is also a trouble shooting guide. What has happened is something has shorted to ground, bypassing the start push button (which closes the circuit to ground). Start at the starter relay and work your way forward. You will find it. It isn't difficult, just time consuming. Did this with a friend's 2nd Gen when he removed the cassette deck and messed up some wiring. RR
  15. RedRider
    Well done Twigg. You signed up for the MN1000 out of Minnehappiness? Mid-June. Be a great warmup for the BL6. RR
  16. RedRider
    We darn well better see a post from TDsTD in this tread!!! RR
  17. RedRider
    OH boy. You are in for some fun. First, get a role of masking tape and a Sharpie. Most of the connections are either already marked or with unique connector shapes. However, it will make your life easier if you mark everything with big letters. Remove outer fairing and windscreen (assume you have already done that). Remove the headlight and mating bracket. Start marking and disconnecting all the wiring. Pay attention to the routing of the cables. Include another masking tape label on a cable with routing notes if you feel the need. Remove the center frame with the audio control. There should be 2 nuts to remove to take the inner faring off at this point. This was done by memory so a couple of steps may be omitted/added. I recall the first time I just started taking it apart and labeling everything. It went back together fine. RR PS. Good time to get any fork work done. Also, steering head bearings (repack, replace, and/or reset).
  18. RedRider
    I use a 5 gal TourTank with the bung on the bottom - also T'd into the fuel line. I turn off the main tank petcock and run the TT until empty - it completely empties. Then turn on the main tank so my fuel gauge is operational. I believe I have the only TT that is accurate. Ordered a 5 gallon unit and it take right at 5 gallons to fill it. Not typical (as strange as that would seem). I never tried to backfill the main tank. However, the petcock is easier to get at on the 2nd Gen than the first (IIRC). RR
  19. RedRider
    How do you have the aux tank plumbed in? Are you using it to refill the main tank or did you 'T' into the fuel line after the petcock? Kind of surprised you aren't getting a complete emptying of the aux tank. RR
  20. RedRider
    Unlikely to be alcohol to cause a sudden killing of the engine. Sounds like an electrical problem. If it was alcohol/water in the fuel, he would feel it underperforming and then seem to run out of gas (you know the feeling). A sudden (instant) killing of the engine is generally a loss of spark. Did it restart? Does it turn over? Does the headlight remain illuminated? Stay illuminated when trying to start (some bikes have a cutoff switch for the headlight when starting, so it may not stay on even if everything is otherwise OK)? If not, start with the easy stuff. Kill switch, sidestand switch, neutral switch, key switch, fuses. Apparently he was aware enough to check the battery connections - good boy. Best reason not to own a Harley. Can't afford both a bike and a trailer. (just had to throw a Harley poke - they're fine machines usually) RR
  21. RedRider
    Steve, Sounds like a good ride was had. You made the right choice. Well done on the BB. If a BBG was easy, everybody would be doing it. Perhaps next time. RR
  22. RedRider
    Pull the plugs and fog the cylinders with a spray oil. Go to your local auto parts store for the brand name. Replace the plugs (original plugs will be fine). Keep something like a wadded up paper towel in the intake tubes to prevent anything from getting in. Store in a dry area. RR
  23. RedRider
    And.... it still has carbs. While it is the most comfortable long distance touring cruiser available, it certainly is not on the cutting edge of technology. REALLY looking forward to Gen3. Whatever and whenever that happens. RR
  24. RedRider
    Get the OEM seals. The price difference is not that much and some of the aftermarket seals don't work as well. In this case, the OEM are the preferred solution. Cost for replacement can be rather dramatic depending on you providing forks vs. providing a bike. The time required to remove/replace the forks will be several hundred dollars. While the fork seals are being replaced, there are also a couple of internal components that are good to get replaced. Just had my forks redone by the dealer (took them off myself) and they charged about $325 total. This included seals, internal sleeve bearings, and Progressive springs. Bought all parts thru the dealer - although the local dealer gives me some decent parts pricing. Don't know the exact dollar amount for the forks since I also had my front wheel bearings replaced at the same time (total bill was about $400). Also had them remove and replace the lower steering neck bearing. RR
  25. RedRider
    Define 'long rides'. Russell Day Long and Rick Mayer saddles are fantastic for really long rides (Iron Butt - 1000+ miles per day). RDL is better if you are over 250# as they have extra suspension. Both are custom made on your current seat pan. RDL is a little more expensive. Rick Mayer also does a great job. These are the preferred choice in the Long Distance community. If you are looking for 500 miles comfort, others will chime in. RR
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