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RedRider

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Everything posted by RedRider

  1. Pick, Changing the neck bearings is a real PITA. However, it can be done. I did it last winter. Once you completely remove the front fairing, and remove the front forks, and then take off the steering stem, you have access to the bearings. The top cup (outer ring) is fairly easy to remove by using a puller or a long drift. The bottom one is a real doozy. There are reliefs in the backing shoulder that should allow you to use a long drift to punch it out. Good luck with that. The Dremel is the tool of choice with the lower cup. Just grind out a section and remove it. Make sure to smooth out any burrs left on the shoulder that will prevent the replacement brg cup from fully seating. Keep the old cutup bearing cup as a driver. When reinstalling the new cups, get a long threaded rod, a couple of appropriately sized nuts, and a selection of washers large enough to cover the cup OD. Place the rod thru the steering neck with a washer/nut combo on the top cup front face and then place an appropriately sized washer and nut on the bottom - using the old cup as a driver. You will likely need a stackup of washers to prevent the large washer from bending. Tighten the nuts until you are sure the cups are seated. Check with a sharp dental/mechanical pick to make sure they are completely seated against the mounting shoulders. DO NOT USE THE BEARING CONE (inner race with rollers) TO PRESS IN THE CUPS - THIS WILL DAMAGE THE RACES. When you reassemble and go to set the bearing preload, make sure to rotate the steering neck back and forth while tightening. This straightens the tapered rollers on the races so you will get a true reading. If you don't do this, you will end up with loose bearings. When you are done setting the bearing preload (it is initially set with a higher torque, then backed off, then retightened to a lower torque for the final set), move the neck back and forth some more and recheck the tightening torque on the nut. And yes, I used to be an Application Engineer at Timken Bearing. While you have the front end off, it is a good time for upgrading the front springs to Progressives, replacing fork seals and fluid, and upgrading your brake lines to stainless steel. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions. RR
  2. This is the real symptom of the 'whining' clutch. Repeat as necessary to get it to stop. RR
  3. +2 on LD Comfort. Long sleeve shirt, wetted, under your NON-AIR riding jacket. Keep it zipped up. When you need some cooling, stick your arms out and let your sleeves fill up with air. The water evaporating off your sleeves will give a welcome chill and keep you cool for several hours. If you are riding fairly long distances with an air jacket and pants, dehydration can be a problem. Besides, in really hot weather, it feels like riding in a blast furnace. Have never used the cooling wrap. Need to score one of those and try it out. RR
  4. Think you hit the nail on the head - nice and shiny. That's all. RR
  5. +1 on the HF vacuum bleeder. Installed SS front lines and used the HF unit to fill and bleed the lines. Lickety split - it was done with no air in the line. Now I need to do the rear brake. RR
  6. I would be honored to get first shot. My son lives in Austin and can help if it comes to that. I am a mere waif compared to you. 6'4" with 34 inseam. RR
  7. You got a great buy on that. Let me know if it doesn't live up to your expectations. I may be interested in taking it off your hands. Might even throw in a trade for another 2008 KLR with a Sargent seat (and bar risers, peg lowering, raising links - I'm tall). Enjoy. RR
  8. While few of you knew Curt (he rode a Honda ST), I wanted to pass along this tragic news. Curt was a fellow LD competitor and a friend. He was one of the guys that picked my Venture off me when I went down on gravel in last year's MN1000 rally. He didn't even take a picture first or laugh at me afterwards (even though it was deserved). Curt Gran died Sunday morning as a result of a motorcycle accident that occurred Saturday night outside Minot, ND. He was participating in the MN1000 Long Distance Rally and ran into a storm cell with high winds. Per the local LEO, the wind appeared to have pushed him into the path of a pickup pulling a horse trailer. Curt was full ATGATT and a very experienced LD rider. He took 5th in the 2011 IBR and several trophies in regional rallies. Curt was also the developer/founder of the Fuzeblock auxiliary fuse block product/company. He married Cindy within the last year. Curt was a great guy and a good friend to be around. He will be missed by all who knew him. Godspeed Curt. He is now sitting at God's Waffle House in the sky, sharing smothered hash browns and a Dr. Pepper with Eddie James. Damn, Damn, Damn, this hurts!!! He was really one of the really good guys. Please include Cindy and the rest of Curt's family and friends in your prayers. RR
  9. What are you wanting to do? Specifically, how many miles are you wanting to do comfortably in a day? From my experience: Up to 200 miles in a day - stock 200-300 - add a pad, beads, or sheepskin 300-500 - Butler mod (and possibly a pad, beads, or sheepskin) 500-1000+ - Russell Day Long Just did 1800+ miles in 36 hours with a RDL. Total for the weekend was 2450 Friday to Sunday. Butt is ready for more but the brain needs sleep and the checkbook (and the boss) needs work. As always with seats, YMMV. RR
  10. Fantastic bikes. Be careful with the 2006/07 (IIRC) 1200GS with the servo assist ABS. BMW had some issues with the servos on these. The servo assist (EVO) on the 1150's worked well. Be careful though, the brakes are VERY effective. The GS' are a solid bike with lots of aftermarket support. It is a completely different ride than a Venture. Upright seating position, less wind protection, gobs of power, handles like on rails, good gas mileage, reliable. Can carry a lot of stuff with a fairly high GVWR. Large stator output to run lots of extras. Been looking for one myself. Ridden my Dad's a few times and it is a wonderful ride. RR
  11. Just a slight clarification to this post - you don't need any 'IBA qualified' witnesses for a SS1000. That is only needed for the more extreme rides. Witnesses for the SS1000 can be anyone including your spouse/friend/mailman/gas jockey at the local station. The only qualification is they must allow being contacted to verify the validity of their witnessing. The requirements are spelled out in the IB website. RR
  12. I've been watching this thread seeing if there would be a solution for a 2nd Gen. I am interested. RR
  13. Keep your eye on Woot.com. Didn't see this post yesterday. They had a nice camera for about $120. Cameras come up every second week or so. Some are refurbs, some are last years model. All end up being a good deal. RR
  14. Naah, just not the right tire for the application. To be fair, the tire didn't 'fail', it wore out. I was not diligent about checking it since it only had about 4000 miles on it. The previous tire had been an Avon that I got 16000 miles. RR
  15. The blowout D404 had Dynabeads. RR
  16. Classic case of incorrect ergometrics. Risers will likely take care of it. If not, then on to custom Flanders bars. With the standard risers, you can use the OEM cables. May have to reroute some of them, but they will fit. RR
  17. The windjammer is in good shape, I just don't like it ruining the beautiful lines of the MG. Will be taking it off. However, with the comments earlier, I will likely be a little more gentle taking it off than I otherwise would have been. RR
  18. At least on a 2nd Gen, the D404 is too light a tire. NEVER, NEVER run a D404 on a 2nd Gen. Ran 2 sets (both were emergency installs while on a trip). Never got over 5000 miles and one had a blowout (on a twisty 2 lane WV highway - while pulling a trailer) at about 45 mph. Avon, Michelin, or Elite3's only on my ride. YMMV RR
  19. Thanks for the info on the Vetter faring. Wasn't aware of what it is. The headlight bucket is not there. Will need to get a replacement for that. However, the bucket mounting ears are there. This is going to be fun. RR
  20. We now see you don't handle gravel any better than your bike. Keep to the paved roads. Heal quickly, my friend. RR
  21. Just picked up my project for next winter. A true barn find. 1975 Moto Guzzi 850T with 17k miles. Motor turns freely, inside of tank is in OK condition, no dents in tank, forks are straight, frame is solid and rust free, and seat is in good shape. PO put on a Windjammer which is going to have to go. Bought if from a guy that had it stored in his shed for over 10 years. It was his father's who passed in 2001. He was going to get it running but didn't have any time (or ability). It was last started in 2002 or 2003. Will need: Master brake cylinder rebuild Airbox replacement (has pods now) centerstand repair saddle bags either removed or repaired Windjammer removed and headlight moved back to forks With the removal of the fairing, will need turn signals All rubber (grips, peg covers, tires) Repaint and stripe (leaking MC got brake fluid on tank) Replace throttle cables and likely clutch cable Clutch handle NOS exhaust (current is home fabbed) Wish me luck. RR
  22. Congrats Owen, well done. Now go find a rally so you have something to do while running all those miles. Check here: http://www.therally.us/rides.html And you're right, it's like crack. And the FJR is such a nice machine once you get it dialed in for comfort. RR IBA 33089
  23. 99 Venture, Welcome to VR. I am 2000RSV on AdvRider and am glad to see you come here for advise. Good luck with the troubleshooting. There are folks answering your questions that are far more qualified than me with the electrical system. Now, if you have a clutch question, bring it on. RR
  24. I really don't want to know. However, I haven't missed a meal. RR
  25. Heard further news today. Apparently, the car driver was out on bail for something. Not sure what. Once he is out of the hospital, his bail will be revoked. RR
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