RedRider

I got 16k out of the last Avon on my RSV. Recommend finding some curves to round out the profile a bit though.

My bike has never been on a trailer and it (hopefully) never will. However, I don't ride a Harley.

And Gilly's in Fond du Lac. Although the best ice cream (not custard) is Kelly Country Creamery in FDL. RR

Yes. The clicking is the fuel pump filling the float bowls in the carbs. Overall, your symptoms do not sound like a fuel pump problem. Either a battery or ignition switch. I would check the battery first. RR

Actually, it is. Just built in India. 1958 Royal Enfield Bullet

I have a canister left from the de-californication of my KLR. Not sure if it will help you, but you are welcome to it. RR

Pictures or it didn't happen. RR

On a 2nd gen, the part numbers were a bit odd. Timken didn't show a direct cross over from the original Japanese brand (NTN or Koyo - don't recall which). If you are able to find a Timken brg for this, it won't have the seal. All Balls is a brg repackager. They don't make anything (that I know of). If the tapered bearing brand is one of the 1st world producers (Japan - NTN, Koyo, NSK; Sweden - SKF, Germany - FAG) you will be alright. However, if it turns out to be one of the Chinese manufacturers (Peer), I would pass. In a younger life I was an engineer for Timken. Top quality. However, the steering application isn't very taxing to the bearing design. Therefore, any good quality bearing will work. Just keep in mind you need the seal with it. FYI - I bought bearings from the dealer when I replaced mine.

Sorry, misunderstood your shipping needs. RR

Don't you have a local NAPA? Buy it there.

Just put on a Hagon shock. Looks like a nice unit. Haven't had an opportunity to try it out though. It is still 4X4 weather up here. Waiting for the 1X1 weather for a ride report. RR

You need to replace it with this: http://ts1.mm.bing.net/th?id=H.4585699181265404&w=173&h=173&c=7&rs=1&pid=1.7

Bump back to the top. Condor, did you find the old dead pump and repair it with the points kit? IronMike, were you able to swap out the pump? Were you able to salvage the wiring on the working OEM unit? RR

The standard bulb size is PAR36. It looks close to what these are. Not sure on depth. This is a setup I am looking at. Should drown out the headlight. Although they are a little expensive. Hit the 'Data Sheet' link on the right side of the page for more info. 900 lumens each. http://www.waytekwire.com/item/47738/TRILLIANT-LED-PAR-36-WORK-LAMP/ RR

That is the group distributing this video. They are a group of vigilante hackers. No way, no how am I ever going to open anything they produce.

There is no way I am clicking on a link from Anonymous. RR

I would not do this. There is no reason to 'wash out' the rear drive. There are tapered bearings in there that require the appropriate lube to protect the sliding action of the roller ends on the ribs. Also, the gears are spiral bevel which also have a small sliding action on the teeth. Thinning the lube will prevent the required hydrodynamic film thickness to keep the interacting components separated. Just change the lube at the recommended intervals and ride it like you stole it. RR

You are on track to have this resolved. It sounds like a fuel issue with the jets clogged up. A bit of Seafoam in fresh gas may take care of it. If not, check the fuel filter and fuel pump. Pulling and cleaning the carbs should be the last thing to try (since it is the most difficult/involved). Welcome back to the US. Thank you for your service. RR

Keep an eye open and it can be had for as little as $15. I renew mine every 3 years or so. RR

Easiest trip planning software is Microsoft Streets and Trips. After planning, you can export it as a GPX file to the Garmin software Basecamp. Basecamp allows you to modify and/or load it into your GPS. Plan each day as a separate file/route and store it in your GPS this way. Each day, load that day's route and you are good to go. As an alternative, if you are just interested in getting from one location to another (without micro-planning the roads being used), just load the ending point of each day in the GPS. At the start of the day, set it as the destination and follow along. RR

With the JIS screws on the old metrics I would remove them and replace with caphead screws. Never had a problem again. Even with the correct JIS screwdriver, they were just soft metal screws. RR

I have done a few IB rides and a few rallies. You may want to look into some of the long distance rallies. Very fun. Will be doing ButtLite7 in July. 6 1000+ mile days back to back (if it all goes right). Can't wait. http://www.teamstrange.com/2014/butt_lite/index.htm RR

Assuming it is the same as my 2000, the nuts aren't steel. Magnet won't help. As mentioned above, replace with nylon wing nuts. RR

Aircraft type? Please advise part number and manufacturer. My pump is working fine so I don't want to replace the brushes/points. However, I have a long ride planned for next year and would like to have an on-the-road fix if it dies. RR

http://www.warmnsafe.com the makers of the Heat-Troller. RR