RedRider

That's too bad. Perhaps I will stop by on my way back and see if you have everything sorted out (and a soda left in the fridge). Your info in your profile? Edit: Yes it is. RR

What GPS? I've had my Zumo 550 there for many years and it does pretty well. RR

Familiar with Marshall. Used to pass thru there (creosote plant if I recall correctly) to my paternal Grandparents who lived in Robinson. RR

There are two bolts that hold the brake reservoir to the handlebars. Remove those and replace them with the longer screws holding the RAM mount. Works great. Don't do it on the clutch side or the GPS will cover the radio controls. RR

Is Hamilton still dry? Used to stay at the HI across the road from the NTN plant many years ago. It was 60 miles in any direction to get a beer. RR

Sorry for the confusion. Will be heading thru Milwaukee about 6:30 am or so.

Get with it. We need to toughen up that candybutt of yours. RR

Alright now. Who is heading to the Moonshine Lunch Run this year? http://Www.moonshine-run.com I am heading down that morning and heading back home that night. 800 mile round trip. It better be a good burger.

Have a blast. If you drive through WI, give us a call to meet up. No worries. If your maintenance is up to date, tires are good, etc. - pack the bike and go. RR

Email the picture to yourself. Most email programs will ask if you want to reduce the size before sending. Say yes and send it. You now have a resized picture. RR

Order a set of replacement plugs for the next time you change plugs. Cheap and easy. RR

KISA, Sounds like there is a rev limiter set in the TCI control. As I have never worked with these units, someone will jump on here and provide details. RR P.S. Your English is much better than my Russian.

Yes it is. Difficult, but it can be done. Just did it this past winter when I did my valves. RR

Fuel filter. RR

Yes, I ran the synthetic for a while. Didn't seem to work any better or worse than the standard dino gear lube. Replacement interval is 16k miles so I change mine whenever I replace a rear tire. It only takes a pint or so, so a gallon goes a long way. Using only dino oil for now. RR

1,000,000 Years BC http://ts4.mm.bing.net/th?id=HN.608044103652347691&w=247&h=366&c=7&rs=1&qlt=80&pid=1.7 RR

These work well. My Dad carries his iPhone in one of these on his motorcycle. Never had a problem. http://www.gpscity.com/ram-mount-universal-x-grip-cradle-bike-mount-rap-274-1-un7.html RR

Yup.

BW matched set - Dunlop E3's. You couldn't give me a D404 as I only get about 4500 miles out of a rear. I hate having to change tires while on a trip. RR

As said, you need to know what is in there. Do you have a local dealer? If so, chat with the shop manager and see if they will swap shims with you. Mine will (free of charge as long as they have enough of the needed size - they won't give me their last one). I also have a shim kit. If you need a couple of shims and can't get them locally, let me know. I can drop them into a flat rate mailer and have them there in a couple of days. Just send me your extras when you are done. However, check with your dealer first. FYI - it is always a good idea to get to know your local dealer shop manager. They can save you some real problems. RR

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/mcy/4382942175.html 815 area code should be near you. RR

Don, Glad you two are working it out. We haven't met yet, but I look forward to meeting you and your bride at the next MD. RR

Pretty basic stuff you can do yourself if you have a lift. You don't need to worry about a valve shim adjustment for another 14k miles (28,000 mile interval). If you look at page 7-3 in the owners manual, there is a Periodic Maintenance and Minor Repair chart. At 14,000 miles you should expect to: 1) Spark plugs - NGK DPR8EA-9 available from any auto parts store for about $2 each. OEM recommended. 2) Carb Sync 3) If you can find one of the old timers here, work with them to set your carb float levels. However, unless you are having trouble, I suggest waiting until you do your valve shims since you need to pull the carbs then anyway (Yeah, I know you can do valves without pulling carbs - I just did it that way. But it is way easier to pull the carbs.) 4) Oil and filter change depending on when it was last done (8000 mile/12 month intervals even though most change it more often than that - I usually maintain an 8000 interval). 5) Replace coolant. 6) Change fluid in both brakes and the clutch. Recommend getting speed bleeders or a vacuum bleeder. Use a fresh unopened can of DOT4 fluid. 7) If you have original rubber on the bike, replace the tires. Make notes / take pictures of how the parts go on the axle. There is a washer that needs to go in the correct spot. Get a really big 27mm combo wrench. That way you don't have to pull the left side muffler. While rear wheel is off: a) Lube the splines between the rear drive and the wheel. Honda Moly 60 b) Take the pin drive off the wheel. You have to remove a snap ring for this to come off. If the pins are dry and rusty (likely), clean pins with crocus cloth or steel wool. Clean the rubber bound pin receptacles with a 20 ga. shotgun barrel cleaning brush. I think a .45 works also. Once clean, coat with Moly60 and reassemble. You might want to have another snap ring on hand in case you bend this one when removing. c) Remove the pumpkin (rear drive). (4) 12mm acorn nuts. You should take this opportunity to drain the pumpkin first. Put a piece of masking tape with 'Rear Oil' over the ignition switch so you don't forget to refill. SAE 80w90 gearoil is recommended by the manual. d) Remove the drive shaft (likely come out with the pumpkin). Lubricate liberally with Moly60. There are several thread on here about putting this back together. It's kind of a PITA the first couple of times you do it. e) Flip inside and outside rear brake pads. They tend to wear unevenly. If they are low, replace with EBC HH pads. Unless you are heavy on the rear brakes, I would expect them to still have lots of meat. Don't play around with your brake pads. Brake discs are expensive, pads are cheap, wrecking hurts. 8) There is a bolt on the pivot of the heal/toe shifter. Remove it and coat with Loctite blue (242 IIRC). Put it back on and snug up. 9) Remove your Captain and Tennille tape from the cassette player and throw away. You're welcome. 10) Lube both hand lever pivots. 11) Go around the bike with your metric allen wrenches and tighten everything. You will likely find a few locations with loose bolts. Along the rear fender chrome support (behind the saddle bags) come to mind. The bolts holding the trunk down (access from bottom). If any of these are hand loose, remove and add a drop of Loctite blue. Check hinge support bolts for the trunk lid. Hinge bolts on both both saddle bags. This should keep you busy for a Saturday. Purchase Honda Moly60 from the local Honda CAR dealer. It costs about half of what the Honda bike dealer charges. And they will have it in stock while the bike dealer will need to order. Keep your eyes on this board for a maintenance day in your area. Pretty much everything here can be done at one. It will only cost you beer and/or ice cream. RR

Brad, We knew the cookies would lure you to the dark side. Welcome back to the 2nd gen. Good looking scoot. RR

Bulb size is PAR36. RR