RedRider

You may want to look at this. Not sure where in MI you are, but this is outside Ann Arbor. http://annarbor.craigslist.org/mpo/5192402069.html RR

There are shoulders on the throttle side where the pinch bolt is. It can't go through the wheel. RR

7 days of fun Long Distance Rally riding July 3-9, 2016. I participated in Butt Lite 7 last year but didn't do very well (I did finish though). Looking to improve my performance. http://www.teamstrange.com/2016/butt_lite/index.htm Top 10 finishers get a no draw entry into the 2017 Iron Butt Rally (11 days) - the Superbowl of Long Distance Rallying. Winner gets a fully paid entry (worth about $2000). Have a lot of work to do on the old Venture to get ready. - Valve shims - Fork oil change - Tires - Brake and clutch fluid - Steering stem nut adjustment - Final drive lube change - New fuel lines - Plugs - Wires? - Clean air filters - Inspect fuel pump contacts - Brake pads front and rear - Lube brake and clutch lever pivots - Sync carbs - Colortune carb mixtures - Front and rear wheel bearings I am really excited to run this again. RR

Walking down the road with two other guys singing show tunes? NTTAWWT RR

Now is the time to put in raising links if you want them. RR

Yes, that's the one. RR

HF lift is great. Added several holes and installed U-bolts for tie downs. Buy the $40 ride in wheel chock. It allows you to ride onto the lift, into the chock, and get off to tie down. RR

You may be able to just put some risers on your bars. The standard 1.5" (IIRC) risers work but don't need any cable changes - other than some routing. RR

What I find advantageous about contacts is that I can wear standard sun glasses if I want. Also, since I am an official old fart, I also need readers. With the FF helmet I put one of these stick-on bifocals at the bottom of the faceshield (off center so it isn't in the direct line of sight). Allows me to see the GPS and/or notes in my tank bag window. On LD rallies, I have used single day wear contacts. Dispose of them each night and put in fresh in the morning. RR

What color is the milk crate on your KLR? Get a full face helmet and wear your current glasses. Better protection and cheaper than new prescription glasses. Or, contacts. Then you can wear the standard goggles. RR

+1 on the RDL. When ordered, you take pictures of yourself on the bike where you want to sit. They customize it for you there. And yes, they need your seat pan. Hope you saved your OEM version for them. If not, post up on here to see if anyone else had one they aren't using. I have about 80k miles on mine. Can ride multiple 1000+ mile days with no butt discomfort. I have never heard anyone regret getting a Russell. It is, by far, the most comfortable seat made - especially for those of us north of 250 lbs. It is the Iron Butt riders' seat of choice. RR

Zumo550 maximum SD card is 4G. You can put a larger one in there and it will work, but IIRC, it will only read 4G. Answers to all your Zumo questions can be found at zumoforums.com. Excellent resource for all things Zumo. RR

Barnett setup is high quality and stronger system than the OEM spring setup. I used to go through clutch springs about every 30k miles. The stronger VMax spring helped, but not much. Barnett upgrade has lasted about 50k and is still going strong. Worth the money in my opinion. RR

I would look at three options to fix this: 1) Float bowl fuel levels. The 2nd gens are notorious for having fuel levels too high in the float bowls. Check in the tech section for procedure to properly set. 2) Carb mixture. There is a fuel mixture screw on each carburetor. If never adjusted, they will be covered with a small brass cap. They should all be set the same (mine are at 1.75 turns) and then the carbs resynced. 3) Double check that your carbs are seated correctly in the boots. My bike never ran right when I first had it (9000 miles on it). When doing my first valve check (and setting float bowl level), I found the one carb I could never tune properly had the boot lip turned under creating a vacuum leak. When the carbs were reinstalled correctly, it tuned up and ran perfectly. Good luck. Let us know what you find. RR

Pulling the carbs makes it a lot easier. I've heard you can do it without pulling the carbs, but my fat hands wouldn't fit with the carbs in place. And yes, a magnetic pickup tool is helpful (forgot that one - it's been a while). BTW, how are you feeling? Ticker running like a Timex yet? RR

A thread of Jeffs. I have a shim kit and a Flyingfool built tool (although, flyinfool's tool is worth buying). You are welcome to use it. Been a couple of years since I have done the shim check, but can likely figure it all out again if you would like help. Additional tools needed - 19mm socket, set of mechanics picks, micrometer, and ideally, metric feeler gauges. Have a clean bench around as you can use this opportunity to set the fuel bowl float levels. If you want to tackle this also, it would be beneficial to get the float bowl gaskets when you purchase the valve cover gaskets. Procedure is in the 2nd Generation Tech forum. FYI - At 30k miles, you will more than likely not have to change any shims. Although, it is a good thing to check. RR

Lost mine on my first IB ride. Going thru Chicago, saw it sliding across the highway in my rear view mirror. Didn't stop. RR

I ride long distances in all kinds of temperature and weather. Following works for me: 1) Good wicking riding shorts. The ones I swear by are LDComfort (http://www.ldcomfort.com). No seams in the seating area and it keeps a dry layer next to the skin. These are also good for multi-day rides as you can wash out in the sink and they dry quickly. 2) Beaded seat. They are surprisingly comfortable. Thousands of middle eastern cab drivers can't all be wrong. To try it out cheaply, go to Walmart (or Canadian Tire) and get a $10 car beaded seat cover. Take it apart and remove parts to conform to the seat shape. Tie it back up. Takes about a half hour. 3) Sheep skin. Cut it to fit. IKEA has skins for about $30. Usually big enough for two seats. RR

A few years ago, mine was doing this. Took apart the lever, lubed the hinge and it was good to go. RR

Well, as usual, plans have changed. We have a long time employee retirement dinner Thursday night. Since I am a part owner of the company, I really need to be there. Therefore, we will be in the western Chicago 'burbs Thursday evening and then head to Ft. Wayne Friday. Think I need to keep an eye out for a MI RTE later this summer where Flyin' Fool and I can motor over and share some cheese. Maybe we can get EagleEye back on the road and joining us. RR

What a great example of knowledge transfer among the members. Great guidance by Eck and Goose. And a fantastic write up by Yamagrl. Very clear and important pictures from Great White. It's Sunday and I try not to learn anything. But I did. Glad it worked out Cowboy. Have a safe ride home. RR

As did I. RR

I coat mine with bugs only. Generally find the Iowa bugs are the most difficult to see through. (Look over the top. Haven't been able to see through my windshield for years.) RR

Wife and I are riding to Ft. Wayne for the weekend of July 11,12. Thought we might leave a bit early and take the northern route through the UP. That would made a nice easy day to arrive about suppertime in mid-Michigan. Who's up for a bite to eat and a beverage? Ragtop69GS? Cowpuc? MiCarl Carbon_One I realize youz guyz aren't all on the same side of the state. Place in the middle we can get together (Lansing maybe)? Just starting to lay out the schedule and looking for ideas that might work. Lemme know your thoughts. RR

Look at the radio control head. There is a button for the CB. If it is turned on, the output from the CB takes precedence over the radio. You may have accidentally turned on the CB, thus muting the radio. Turn it off and all should be good with the radio. You're not the first to have this happen. RR