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RedRider

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Everything posted by RedRider

  1. Yes, they are all interchangeable. RR
  2. How much are they asking for it? RR
  3. If it's the red one it has been ridden fast - since red is the fastest color. Seriously though, these are pretty solid bikes. They are also pretty easy to work on for maintenance items (clutch, rear shock - though expensive, brakes, fork seals are kind of a pain). Check to see if the key will fit all the locks. If it needs to be turned around (each side of the key is different), the main ignition switch has been replaced. Not neccessarily a deal breaker, but something to ask about. Is the guy selling it the original owner? I wouldn't be scared of the mileage if it has been well taken care of. Check his garage and see if it is neat and tidy. Kind of like checking a girlfriend's mother to see what she will be like in 25 years. If the garage is organized and tidy, the bike was probably maintained that way too. No guarantees, but a gut feel. Good luck and keep us informed. And if you buy it, we have a rule around here. Pics are required!! RR
  4. FYI - The Iron Horse Lodge has camping, a bunkhouse, and cabins. The cabins are very nice (and relatively new) with 2 bedrooms sharing a bath. RR
  5. www.Ironhorsenc.com This is a great place to stay, however, the night life is a little more country than city. In other words, bring your own beer/wine/liquor, sit around the campfire with the other riders and swap stories and lies. Beautiful area, quite babbling brook running thru the cabin area, big friendly lodge where all congragate, reasonably priced, and a nice meal at the end of the day. Only place I have gone to twice (actually, 3 times) since I started riding (other than family destinations). Check the www.Tailofthedragon.org website for additional information. You will have a great time down there. RR
  6. The 2nd Gen RSV was technologically behind the GW even when introduced in '99. Unfortunately, I have to agree with Rider that there are really only 2 competitors in the GW class - the BMW and the HD. However, I prefer my RSV for comfort - I like the foot boards out front; style - most beautiful touring bike around; price, warranty, and serviceability - I can actually work on a RSV. It's a keeper. Perhaps Gen 3 will give the GW a run for its money. RR
  7. The Virago in Rider was the 750. However, the Gixxer made the list too. RR
  8. Remove the plug and move it to the handlebar by the clutch side. You will find the cord to your helmet will no longer get hung up on your left jacket pocket / logo. Just attach the plug and cable with a couple of black zip ties. RR
  9. ... in the winter. Otherwise, it is a nice place to visit. RR
  10. I received Rider in the mail yesterday and proceeded to screw up my sleep schedule and read it all. It is their 35 anniversary issue and they were listing the 35 bikes that were deemed most significant over the last 35 years. They weren't rated top to bottom, just listed by year. The Venture was selected #10 because of the year, not the importance. Also listed was the KLR650 and the Yamaha Virago. Nice to have 3 from the list. RR
  11. Ron Ayers - Riding the Wind - Tale of the Iron Butt Rally Neil Peart (yes, that Neil Peart of Rush) - Ghost Rider. Fabulous book about his recovery from the loss of his wife and daughter in one year. His recover consisted of riding his BMW until the wheels fell off. There are a couple of other books about riding by Mr. Peart also. Enjoy. RR
  12. Check at BikeBandit.com http://www.bikebandit.com/forks/c/a643952?mg=41299&t=1 I think these are the ones. RR
  13. Do you think we could run those with an upgraded stator? RR
  14. Jerry, How much different are the current bars you have from the stock? I might be willing to trade. Also, are they stock cables? RR
  15. Deb, It won't take long now. Spring is coming. I don't turn on my insurance until mid to late March. Then, look out world. Burning dead dinosaurs and tires are a going to be happening!! RR
  16. While you may have been riding for a while, it is always helpful to get reminded of the techniques. Go take a MSF (Motorcycle Safety Foundation) class. This is the best $200 you can spend. http://www.amtc1.com/ This is in Ft. Smith. They have classes starting today and next weekend. Then later in the year take the advanced riding class. Then practice, practice, practice. Welcome to the family. RR
  17. Good luck Gary. Just think how fast you will be on that first gen with only half of you on the seat. Looking forward to seeing less of you at PIP. RR
  18. I never knew that. Thanks Squeeze. RR
  19. Just an added note - you can change out the clutch pack, install springs, etc. without draining the oil. Just set it on the sidestand and the oil runs to the other side. It really is a 20 minute job. Make sure you use a new gasket. Also, you will find pulling the clutch plates to be much simpler by using inexpensive mechanics pics available at Sears for about $7. RR
  20. You will find the LED readout will change depending on where you hook it into. I tapped into the accessory plug wiring and get 1 green LED at idle (and nothing much turned on). It goes up to 3 LEDs while riding. I had it hooked up to somewhere else previously (don't remember where) and was playing around mostly in the yellow LEDs. Moved it and it performed better. Please keep in mind this meter is not really for accuracy, but for relative charge. If you know your battery is fully charged, that reading is the setpoint of the meter. If it goes down from there, then you are discharging. If it goes up, you are good. Move the connection around to different locations and see what happens. RR
  21. You may want to shoot an email to Rick Butler - our resident seat modification expert - and see what he can do. It may be possible to shave some off the sides that will allow you to get you legs on a more direct path to ground. There is a noticable difference in comfort between the stock and pillow top. If you want to change out the pillow top, let me know and I may want to purchase your pillow tops - if the price is right. However, check with Rick first. May be the least expensive, and best, solution. Good luck. RR
  22. Murph, I ran for a couple of years with synthetic oil and during a trip last fall was getting slippage in the higher gears. I was pretty well loaded (pulling a trailer), but not too bad. Running thru the mountains of West, by God, Virginia, it started slipping. Only had 30k miles on the clutch. When I took it apart, all the friction plates and steels were within specs. However, some of the steels were blued. Now, this is in no way to imply the synthetic lube caused this. However, I have gone back to dino oil after my latest clutch rebuild. As it is still winter, no testing yet. Some other thoughts: 1) There are spring upgrades available that will increase pressure on the clutch plates making them less likely to slip. Search tech forum 2) There is a mod that changes out the inner 1/2 friction plate with a complete plate that is to improve clutch performance (I hope so - I did this mod). Search tech forum. 3) The clutch is not normally covered under warranty. Do not ride much with the slippage, as it will overheat and warp the clutch plates. This will NOT be covered under warranty. 4) Take this back to the shop and see if they will comp you some dino oil for a change out. See if this takes care of it, and if so, no harm no foul. Get a filter too. 5) Report back to us the results of your actions. RR
  23. The best way I have found is to use a ColorTune. It is a spark plug with a clear window in the back so you can see the color of the explosion in the cylinder. You adjust the mixture until you get a nice yellow flame. But first, you use the CarbTune to syncronize the 4 carbs. Unfortunately, these are not cheap tools. Ask around and see if anyone in your area has one. If you can get to WI, I can help. Or, if you want to take an early year long ride, head to Freebird's maintenance day in Ohio. There will me several folks there that care willing and able to help. RR
  24. OH man, a big meal and then a Valentine evening. WITHOUT A SMOKE!!! Good luck. RR
  25. Isolate the problem. Switch helmets to connection (put her helmet/headset on your connection, put your helmet/headset on her connection). Does the problem follow the connection location or the helmet location. Another check is to see if she can talk over the CB (if you have one) using the headset mic. If you helmet allows you to talk and her to hear while connected to the rear connnection, the problem is likely in her headset. If she cannot hear you but you can hear her, the problem is with the bike setup. If the problem is with her headset (let's hope - way easier to fix), check all the connections. Change back and forth the intermediate cable (between helmet connection and curly cable connection). Does it follow the cable? No? Then change the curly cable. Same questions. If neither of these, closely check the wiring from the mic to the helmet connection. These are likely molded connectors, so you will only be able to check for pinched wires. Once you find the offending connection, try to fix it with a clean out and application of dielectric grease. If that doesn't work, replace the cable. If the problem follows the connection location and not the helmet/headset, wait for an answer from some of the old timers on here that know how the IC works on the antiques. I have a 2nd Gen. Good luck and let us know how it turns out. RR
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