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FreezyRider

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Everything posted by FreezyRider

  1. FreezyRider
    Where are you buying them for that price?
  2. FreezyRider
    My experience with Silicone coming in contact with gasoline has not been good. The silicone gets all gummy. I am assuming that the diaphrams are in contact with the fuel??? Or maybe not. Whatever you use, it might be wise to do a test first. Put some of whatever compound you are going to use on a piece of scrap material and immerse it in fuel for a few days to see if there is any adverse reaction.
  3. FreezyRider
    And if you don't have someone to help you lift the rear tire, you can use your shop jack (if you have one) to lift the tire. That's what I did, and it worked slick. You can easily control the alignment of the holes that way.
  4. FreezyRider
    Lynn, sorry I didn't think to give you a buzz....it was one of those last minute things that just popped up. Next time for sure! Gotta see those shiny tins! We were at Ivanhoe's on Sunday afternoon. The Harley dealers down that way must be rolling in the dough! There were at least 20 new or fairly new HD's there. Made me want to follow them out of town for a little "sport"! hehe But I resisted the impulse.
  5. FreezyRider
    Well Lynn, I can't really answer your questions....but heck, that never stopped me from offering my opinions! A friend of mine has 2 Royal Stars, a 97 and a 99. Bought them last fall, intending to resell them this spring (now he's wavering...may keep the 99!) I have noticed that both of those bikes have a pretty steep "lean angle" when they are on the sidestand. When he parks on a slope running down away from the left side of the bike it takes a herculean effort to pick it back up off the stand. My 99RSV weighs a bunch more than his RS but is much easier to stand up. I think that is because the front has been lowered by an inch. The rear has the stock links on it (it had been lowered in the rear when I bought it. Didn't like it....too easy to drag in curves). When I raised the rear back to stock height I was worried a bit that this would cause more lean angle when on the side stand. But if it has, it is so slight that I can't tell it. Seems the same to me. My advice (like you're looking for advice!) would be to reach your desired rake by raising the rear 1" and dropping the front by 3/4". I think you wouldn't see any increased lean, probably less. Good luck.....and we gotta meet for a ride soon. Another subject....last night we and another couple rode down to Portland to eat at the Bandido's there. Met up with another RSV (Black) heading North on hwy 27 just north of Geneva. Hadn't seen that one around. He had the look of a "local"....no helmet, just a T-shirt. Didn't look like he was equipped to ride far. Gonna have to see if I can find out who it is and point him to this site. Have a good one! Joe
  6. FreezyRider
    On my policy, I pay an additional small "Uninsured Motorists" fee. That way if I'm in an accident and the other party is at fault and has no insurance, my Ins Co will pay the bill and then sue the other party to recover as much as they can.
  7. FreezyRider
    I hope you like yours. I had one on my Goldwing and have one for the passenger on my RSV (was there when I bought it). Truthfully, I wouldn't was the money on another one. Here's why: 1. The upper arms that "clamp" around the drink will not stay snug against it. Any little vibration and they spread apart. Drink soon falls off. Wife won't use it anymore. 2. A taller container, such as a bottle of water, has too much of its weight above the arms when it is full. Again, the arms loosen up and the bottle won't stay. If you're going to use one, I'd suggest you do what I ended up doing. I used strips of velcro attached to the arms so that I could tighten them up around the drink container and fasten them in position. Only way I could make the critter usable.
  8. FreezyRider
    Any updates on the charging system upgrade? I'm more nervous than ever about mine now. I installed the Kuryakyn LCD voltmeter, and it's amazing how close I must be running to the max charging capacity. All I have to do to throw the LCD into "yellow" is to hit the brakes, turn on a turn signal....sometimes even just setting the cruise control will push it over the edge. I am going to start replacing rear lightbulbs with LCD bulbs to save a bit of wattage. I had been considering a higher wattage bulb in my passing lamps, but unless I can find a beefier alternator, that probably would not be a good idea.
  9. FreezyRider
    These sure look interesting: http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup.aspx?GID=9513E017-F48A-4E34-BCF5-5C4E745DBC8B Looks like they could be wired as both low and high beam, just like the headlight. Hmmmmm........ what a concept. Passing lamps that have both low and high beams. I may have to check this out further.
  10. FreezyRider
    Wow, wouldn't a 70 or 100 watt be a drain on the charging system on the RSV? There doesn't seem to be a lot of extra capacity......
  11. FreezyRider
    According to a search on Google, those are a GE sealed beam lamp very similar to the stock bulbs. They are 37.5 watt, I think the stock passing lamps are 30 or 35 watt, so not much of a difference. You might want to try some of these: http://www.atlantalightbulbs.com/ecart/nw012104/50PAR36.H.SP8.htm I've been considering them. They are 50W each, and are halogens (sealed beam type). These are "narrow spot" type, they have an 8 degree beam spread. They also have a wide spot as well as some very narrow spot (5 degree) beams. If you do try them, let us know how they work out. They sure are priced reasonably.
  12. FreezyRider
    .............and............................ WHERE ARE THE PICTURES???? Don't you know you are in violation of the rules around here?? We need pictures to satisfy our cravings!!!!!
  13. FreezyRider
    Just wanted to share my experience with Carbon One and his adapter for those who may be wavering on whether to get one or not. BUY IT! DO NOT PASS GO, DO NOT COLLECT $200 (Monopoly reference). I had considered making my own, but finally decided to get one from Larry. Ordered in on Monday evening. Larry shipped on Tuesday. Got it on Wednesday (only one state away). After taking it out of the box, I was immediately glad that I didn't make my own. Excellent design, workmanship, and customer service. Thanks, Larry!!
  14. FreezyRider
    Not sure of the model, but they are made by Clarion. I have a used one with the complete wiring harness and mounting brackets that I am willing to sell. Send me a pm if interested.
  15. FreezyRider
    I'd sure like to see some good photos of your setup.....and cold is no excuse!! Heck, cameras don't care how cold it is!!!
  16. FreezyRider
    But to answer RSTD-MN.... I have a Craftsman lift, and it is an excellent tool. Built well, sturdy, works great. Watch for them to go on sale, you can occasionally find them for $60-$70 bucks. I needed mine RIGHT NOW so I had to pay the full $89.....still worth it IMO.
  17. FreezyRider
    You either need to test the stator output yourself (not difficult to do) or get your dealer to do it and let you see the results as it is running. I really don't think it's your battery. Since the battery does charge up with your charger, it should do the same with a properly functioning charging system on the bike. I had some problems with my batt running down while riding. I'll spare you the troubleshooting details I went through, but I finally found that the connection at the voltage regulator wasn't making good contact. The Voltage Reg is at the lower front of the engine, under the radiator. You access it by removing the lower right fairing. I filled the connector with dielectric grease and the problem was solved. Now charges great. However, since it ran clear down to the point of stranding me twice, I no longer trust it....so I bought a Kuryakyn LED volt meter. Now I'll know if it stops charging. If you have any inclination to check it out yourself, get a shop manual. It will give you a lot of help. The dealer should take care of this, he owes you that much. I'm just the type who doesn't trust others to diagnose something like this properly when they know they aren't getting $$$$ for it. Warranty work doesn't pay much to the dealer.
  18. FreezyRider
    ............and, you can get them here: http://www.buckeyeperformance.com/p20.htm
  19. FreezyRider
    I wonder if the Flanders (G2, I think) bars would fit? Then you'd have the grips closer to you without bothering with the issues caused by risers.
  20. FreezyRider
    I took a trip to Arkansas last July and rode a bunch of great roads. Didn't know about Hwy 123, dang it! Oh well, now I have a good reason to come back!!!
  21. FreezyRider
    Yep, that's just like mine. A very small jeweler's screwdriver or comparable will do the trick. In your picture, the small round button in the center is what you want to pry out. It moves pretty easily, just try it.
  22. FreezyRider
    Glad I bought when I did....saved myself some money! The spacer works great. Makes it so much easier to get the front half of the fairing off.
  23. FreezyRider
    I take a small, thin knife blade and pry the center "pin" out about a quarter of an inch. This releases the tension on the fastener, then the whole thing just pulls out. There are a lot of this same type fastener on your bike. You'll get used to them quickly if you do your own maintenance.
  24. FreezyRider
    DUDE!!! You should be making and selling those! I have a 99 silver RSV, would love to have one like yours that is color matched. Ebay buyers would eat those up!! You are one talented guy.
  25. FreezyRider
    To calculate your true speed, go to an interstate (or any road with mile markers). Use a stopwatch to determine the number of seconds that it takes to go one mile. Then divide 3600 by the number of seconds elapsed between mile markers. This is your actual MPH. For instance, if you clocked 50 seconds between mile markers, you are going 72 MPH (3600 divided by 50 = 72). You may be off by a tenth or two due to judging exactly where your mile starts and stops, but that's pretty close.
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